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 Foam types/Case Repair
Author: TJTG 
Date:   2012-05-05 21:53

I have an double buffet attache case. It is about 20 years old, the case and hinge itself are in fantastic shape. The inside of the case is a different story though. The Styrofoam underneath the velvet has become compacted and the instruments can slide side too side a little too much.

I would like to purchase a foam which I could cut and glue/attach by the bells and tops of the joints so they aren't so jiggly.

Why types of foam could I purchase that won't disintegrate quickly? I know Styrofoam would be a nightmare. I've tried a search for case foam but many people assume that there would be fabric placed/stretched over it.

I don't know if I should glue it in or if friction would keep it in place. Help please, especially if you've done something like this yourself.

Many thank you's!



Post Edited (2012-05-05 21:54)

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 Re: Foam types/Case Repair
Author: Bob Bernardo 
Date:   2012-05-05 23:18

Be VERY careful here. Glue cane shrink a lot of foam, such as Styrofoam. I went to Cal Tech for a bit and one time the class was messing around with all sorts of foams and glue. We had to do this project in a special room because of the gas put out from the insulation and the assorted glues.

I'd suggest buying a new case or look on ebay for one thats just a year or 2 old. Save your lungs. I can't suggest any time of foam or glue thats 100 percent safe.

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 Re: Foam types/Case Repair
Author: Paul Aviles 
Date:   2012-05-06 00:30

Ya know, the standard operating procedure for German cases is to just line the area with cloth (or clothes). For my Wurlitzers I would regularly buy 100% cotton flannel (also used for wiping down the keys after play) and cut into sections the size of the open double case. Then just lay down one starting at one end, pushing it into the depressions, then overlap with the other starting flush with the opposing edge. The Wurlitzer spaces were purposely made "oversized" for this very purpose.

I think it may be too much trouble to find a foam that you can actually glue "on top of the lining" (which is what it sounds like you are doing) and still function to hold everything in place without snagging on rod heads or compressing in short order.

Whatever foam they use in the BAM cases is the VERY best I've run across. But I'd just suck it up and buy one of their cases if I were you.



..................Paul Aviles



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 Re: Foam types/Case Repair
Author: Ken Shaw 2017
Date:   2012-05-06 14:19

Foam rubber deteriorates quickly. Be sure to use silicone foam.

You might go to a luggage repair shop and ask them, or get in touch with Fred Jacobowitz <fred@ebonyandivory.ca>, who repairs cases.

Ken Shaw

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 Re: Foam types/Case Repair
Author: Bob Bernardo 
Date:   2012-05-06 21:18

An added note here. If you decide to glue this yourself remember the smell will probably stink for awhile and permeate your reeds and the horn"s". Again, this can be very toxic.

Go with Ken and Pauls advice.

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 Re: Foam types/Case Repair
Author: tictactux 2017
Date:   2012-05-06 21:38

If you glue foam on foam or foam on fabric or whatever way, your safest bet would be "plain old white glue" aka PVA..
It takes some time to harden, but it doesn't evaporate, doesn't stink, isn't toxic and won't attack styrofoam and other materials.

--
Ben

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 Re: Foam types/Case Repair
Author: LJBraaten 
Date:   2012-05-09 15:55

I've used the cloth solution for one of my cases, only for now I substituted pieces of bubble wrap. I thought about cutting up an old sweatshirt that's the right color, and the inside is plush. I'm a little concerned about lint, so I may have to finish the edges. I find it moves around a bit, so I might try tacking the cloth down with a few stitches.

Laurie

Laurie (he/him)

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 Re: Foam types/Case Repair
Author: TJTG 
Date:   2012-05-10 17:11

I've decided to go the cloth route. The pieces now fit snugly and I"m happy with the results. I may pin them down like Laurie said because it wants to move around just a little too much.

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