 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: ttay1122
Date: 2012-04-06 09:19
I'm trying my hand at a repad on a plastic clarinet. I've decided to go with synthetic pads, these are gortex with cork backing. I have never fully repadded before, only replaced pads that needed it. I'm not really worried about if I mess up because, I'm just trying to get a little repair experience under my belt. So anyways, I have no idea how to seat regular pads let alone synthetic pads. Could someone help me out?
Thank you.
Taylor.
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Author: Campana
Date: 2012-04-06 09:46
Hi. You could read this link...
http://www.woodwind.org/clarinet/Equipment/Care/PadReplacement.html
Seems pretty daunting to me.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2012-04-06 10:35
What pads are these? I've never seen Goretex pads with cork backs. The only Goretex pads I know are the ones made by Music Center and the ones that come with some clarinet slike Buffet, which AFAIK are made for them by Music Cente. They all have carboard backs from what I remember.
Most pads are "seated" more or less the same. One thing that could influence the way it's done is whether they are stepped pads or not. Stepped pads have a smaller diameter back, which can be at a (more or less) square angle or a more gardual curve, which might also make a bit of a difference.
As far as "regular" pads vs. synthetic pads, assuming similar shape, there isn't really a difference other than some technical details (e.g. some pads can tolerate more heat than others, require a less hot glue, form the seat ring faster, etc.).
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Author: stevesklar
Date: 2012-04-06 12:11
I don't recommend starting your first repad with expensive Gortex pads. It's just extra money that you might end up throwing out (taking them out and replacing to try again).
But since you have them, read as much as possible on repadding before you start. It's really not hard to install a pad in a cup. The more "daunting" task is getting them to be level with the tonehole. And then you will find some people clamp theirs shut to get that closure.
But the gortex ones really need to be flat with the tonehole and not clamped at all. If they are clamped the surface may separate from it's backing and "bubble" out into the tonehole creating a nice tonal buzz with the airwave.
But since you have replaced pads before just work one at a time if you need to.
==========
Stephen Sklar
My YouTube Channel of Clarinet Information
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Author: Wes
Date: 2012-04-06 20:07
The pads you have may be the Norbeck pads that Ferrees sells. I bought some Norbeck pads and tried to seat them with no success. They look very durable. I recommend that you try the regular double skin conventional pads which are as easy to seat as any. Don't bother with the single skin pads. Get the pad seated properly with no leaks first. Clamping them to seal them should not be necessary to get a good seal.
Make some feeler strips from cigarette paper to check for leaks around the pad edges. I use a rounded metal piece about 3/8th inch x 2 inches to shift the pad while warm to eliminate leaks. Good luck!
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Author: ttay1122
Date: 2012-04-06 22:25
My bad! I thought they were gortex but they are actually silicone, not sure where I read gortex but oh well.
The pads it has right now are actually in fair condition, but the bottom four pads (E, F, F#, G#) are actually the stepped pads that Clarinbass mentioned. These are my main priority, because of the "stepped" part, the pads are way to thick and very close to the tone holes. This is what seems to be the problem, when I play B,C,C#, and Eb, they are very flat, and airy. But when I removed the keys this was no longer a problem so I figure the stepped pads are not open enough. Even visibly, far too close to the toneholes.
Taylor.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2012-04-07 06:16
>> the "stepped" part, the pads are way to thick and very close to the tone holes... <<
Have you determined that the problem is a reuslt of the pads being too thick? If too thick pads are used and keys are not aligned to accomodate them, then the back of the pads would hit before the front, causing leaks at the front and/or a poor feel that it is necessary to press too hard on the keys. Sometimes too thick pads are floated to seal and then the venting is a bit lower. This is trickier with stepped pads and isn't done often.
I would first check whether the pads seal with a light touch. Take a "feeler" (I like thin rolling papers). Close the keys gently with normal playing force and grab the feeler between the pad and the tone hole, both at the back (key arm side) and the front (opposite to that) and check if it grabs both. If it grabs the back significantly more than the front than the pads are probably either too thick or not aligned (or just a messy installation in the first place).
See this article: http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk/HandyHints/LeakyPads.htm
Using thinner pads might help, but if the intonation and tone suffers so significantly then it's more likely that there is also something else preventing the keys from raising as much as they should. For example bumper material, etc.
If the pads seal then installing thinner ones without compensating will actually cause leaks at the back. The major problems you describe sound like there is more than too thick pads causing them.
Post Edited (2012-04-08 07:31)
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