 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: wjulaxer13
Date: 2012-04-04 13:12
I have no means at this time to bore out and insert a newly made tenon. I do though have an instrument that has a section of plastic tenon broken off (dont have the part that broke off) and have been thinking about whether it is possible to fix it without manufacturing a new tenon. My assumption is that correcting with most, if not all glues would not be strong enough and inserting a sleeve of some sort into the bore at the tenon to strengthen it would affect the sound too much. Any ideas on what I can do at this point to fix it? thank you.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-04-04 13:20
If the sleeve forms a constriction in the bore (a localised narrowing) then that could cause tuning problems. You can only effectively repair a broken tenon with something that has the same internal bore diameter, so if you do plan on making a metal sleeve to add strength to the tenon, the bore of the metal sleeve should be the same as the diameter of the bore at the tenon and the bore of the instrument opened up to the outer diameter of the metal sleeve.
The other alternative is to look for a replacement top joint from a matching donor instrument (of a similar age) and transplant the keys onto that (unless all the keys are in place on the donor joint).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: wjulaxer13
Date: 2012-04-04 13:27
I prefer not replacing the joint as that would cause the serial numbers to not match. To shave out the bore of the tenon to take a same bore sleeve would take a lathe which I do not have. I dont know any other way to shave back a tenon/joint bore.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-04-04 13:34
There isn't any other way around it unless you can get access to a lathe that will allow you to bore out the upper joint to receive the tenon sleeve.
What make of clarinet is it? If you do go down the donor joint route and the serial number is different, the replacement joint can have the number overstamped with heated metal number punches (but don't heat them up too much).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: wjulaxer13
Date: 2012-04-04 13:38
he he, the idea of changing the serial number occurred to me as well. It is a common Bundy plastic. Easy to find replacement parts for it. Haven't checked but probably have some laying around. I did get your other note on lathes by the way and will have to start looking to see what I can find.
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Author: dperreno
Date: 2012-04-04 13:56
Why would you be concerned about matching serial numbers on a Bundy?
Doug
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2012-04-04 16:06
You have a few options but it depends what size and shape the piece that broke off is.
If it's "small" (vague description) then just filling with glue and wood dust can work. If it's "bigger" then you can rebuild with glue, wood dust and reinforcement pins around the circumference part that is broken. If it's even more than that (e.g. the entire top of the tenon or more is missing) then it's most likely necessary to make a new tenon, or at least part of the tenon.
Personally I prefer not to bore the joint bigger and glue a new tenon with a longer sleeve (grafting). I prefer to glue a tenon, whether it is a broken piece or a new one I have made, with reinforcement stainless steel pins. It is crucial to do this with vent holes for the pin holes.
There is another option that I have tried but was recommended by two repairers. You can use Oatey solvent glue. This glue sort of (not really) "welds" the two parts so it is stronger than a glue that acts as a glue (epoxy, super glue, etc.). It isn't as strong as an original piece but according to repairers who used it they say it is strong and lasts very long for school owned instruments they have repaired. The one to use is probably their "all purpose" one http://www.oatey.com/Channel/Shared/ProductGroupDetail/1/All+Purpose+Cement.html and the reason is that you don't really know what the clarinet is made of. It might be ABS but it might have other things in it, or it might be something else. It's usually impossible to know for sure. Again, I haven't tried it, and still prefer epoxy with reinforcement pins, but others claim this works and is strong.
For a DIY that is possible with pretty limited tools, you can buy an already made tenon from Votaw. This one is supposed to work for a Bundy but they list measurement so you can check http://www.votawtool.com/zcom.asp?pg=products&specific=jncqhmkpc
Saw the tenon off the instrument, saw the extra sleeve off the new tenon and glue. Either with epoxy and pins (if you can) or more easily with the Oatey glue (I can't guarantee the latter but it's probably worth trying as DIY that is easier to do).
Maybe even easier is to buy another Bundy... but then it depends on its condition, probably will be more expensive overall.
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Author: wjulaxer13
Date: 2012-04-04 16:12
when you say with 'vent holes' do you mean a hole all the way to the end of the tenon? for expansion?
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2012-04-04 16:24
The reinforcement pins for a new tenon are put along the length of the body, part inside the tenon and part inside the body. On the tenon side you can make the hole all the way to the end of the tenon to act as a vent hole. For the body side it is a small hole (I make them 0.5mm if I remember right) more or less perpendicular to the body, at the very end of the pin hole. You can make them this way on the tenon side too.
To be honest this technique is really important to make sure a lot of details are correct so I'd try the Oatey glue first without pins and see how it works. Epoxy without pins wouldn't work unless it is a graft.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2012-04-04 19:47
FWIW, I seem to remember that Bundies had serial numbers only on the top joint, not both (and hence no problem with non-matching serials)...
--
Ben
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Author: Wes
Date: 2012-04-05 06:44
Once, I repaired a broken off tenon from a Conn Pupeschi system non-wood clarinet with a piece of plastic pipe with a matching inner diameter, using epoxy. When I bought it in an antique mall in Middletown MD the bell was deceivingly glued to the bottom joint. It worked out great, however, and the rest of the clarinet was restored, too.
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Author: dperreno
Date: 2012-04-05 13:51
There is a Bundy upper joint on ebay for $20, seems a lot easier and cheaper than trying to repair.
Doug
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