 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Sqweky
Date: 2012-03-31 04:29
Attachment: keys.png (115k)
Hello, - I'm going to attempt to re-plate my old R13 keys. I'll probably purchase the Caswell silver tank kit. But, the hard part seems to be all the prep work. Such as removing all existing plating. Is there some way I can tell what the plating is and what the base metal is on these keys ? Standard R13 manufactured in 1974. Here's a photo of the right-hand pinky keys showing the worn plating.
Thanks !
RDL
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Author: Vubble3
Date: 2012-03-31 05:48
copper
Buffet Bb R13 A RC Prestige
buffet chadash and moennig barrels
Lomax classic lig
b40 lyre
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-03-31 10:58
The base metal the keys are made from is nickel silver, then they copper flash them and either nickel or silver plate onto the copper.
You don't need to remove all the plating - just tidy up the worn areas and polish them to blend in with the existing plating. Your R13 appears to be in nickel plate and that's an excellent surface for silver plate to go onto. You're going to have a lot of trouble removing nickel plate, so leave it on and plate over , but just paper up and polish the worn and scratched areas so they're all smooth.
How thick are you applying the silver plate? You really ought to apply a minimum layer of 25 microns of silver for durability. Applying silver only a few microns thick (around 3 or so) won't last and will wear out very quickly.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2012-03-31 11:56
Sounds like a bad idea to me.......
Bob Draznik
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-03-31 12:14
You'd be better off sending the keys (and the other non-ferrous parts) to be plated by a company that specialises in it, plus it'll be a lot less expensive than buying the silver plating kit and the end result may be far superior.
I just looked up what's involved and they use battery acid and all manner of harmful chemicals, so I'd suggest leaving it to someone who's already set up to do this kind of thing.
In any event, you'll have to refit all the keys afterwards, making sure they're a good fit between pillars and not tight or loose on the point screws and the rod screws aren't tight or loose in the key barrels.
The trill keys aren't particularly easy to refit as the lower trill key barrel slips over the top trill key barrel, so it has to be a good fit so the lower trill key neither wobbles around nor binds up solid.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Jeff Chan
Date: 2012-03-31 18:22
Another very good source for plating (or plating information) is Steve Fowler at http://www.fowlermusic.com/.
His silver plating work is excellent!
Jeff Chan
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