 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: clarimad
Date: 2012-01-30 15:38
I'm looking to find a Eb/Bb key for my 1952 wooden Bb Regent. Does anyone have one they would like to sell me?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-01-30 15:45
Windcraft only list the later style (post 1960 - see link below) so it may need some adapting to make it fit properly - the '50s style side keys are a fair bit thinner and lower profile than the post '60s style ones and have even more of a cut-out on the underside for the flat spring to sit into.
https://www.windcraft.co.uk/image_display.html?img=accessory_pics/wbh1016.jpg
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2012-01-30 15:46)
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2012-01-30 19:01
The Regent 1952 key will almost definitely have been a cast Mazac material - which is why it broke!
Any later B&H key from Regent/Edgeware/Emperor etc range should fit with a bit of alteration as Chris states.
If all else fails then buy a scrap Regent / Edgeware etc (post Mazac is preferable) and you will then have potential spares for if/when any other keys break.
Those early wood Regents often had pretty good wood bodies it was the keywork that let them down.
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Author: SteveG_CT
Date: 2012-01-30 19:47
Norman Smale wrote:
> The Regent 1952 key will almost definitely have been a cast
> Mazac material - which is why it broke!
Usually I hear "pot metal" referred to as "Zamak", which is a proprietary Zinc/Aluminum/Copper/Magnesium alloy here in the US. Is it safe to assume that "Mazac" is the British equivalent?
I routinely curse the engineers who once decided that this was an approprite material to use for the gears on small lathes.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-01-30 21:38
Yeah - mazak was the choice of casting alloy used for Matchbox and Dinky die-cast model cars, but its appication for cheap woodwind keywork was pretty misguided.
Keywork can be cast either in separate pieces or entirely in single pieces from nickel silver which is much better and is far more common on a lot of clarinets nowadays.
Any similar serial number B&H clarinet (in the 100000s) should have keys that will transfer successfully, although Edgware keys will be made from nickel silver which is the choice material for clarinet keys as it's much stronger and can be repaired should they break. Wooden B&H Regent and B&H "77" clarinets from the '50s had mazak keys.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarimad
Date: 2012-01-31 17:36
I guess then I will have to remove the rod tubing from a more recent key and resolder it into the required position to enable it to fit the instrumet. Any suggestions about the process or techniques I need to follow?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-01-31 20:19
I don't think you'll have to do that as the pillars are pretty much in the same position (maybe a fraction of a millimetre out), but you may have to either shorten the tubing by fraising it or lenghten it by swaging it so it fits well (but neither too loosely nor too tightly) between the pillars.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2012-01-31 20:19)
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Author: clarimad
Date: 2012-01-31 22:20
Thanks Chris but newer keys dont "reach" the tone hole which is why i mentioned having to doctor a key by removing the rod tube and repositioning it.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-01-31 22:26
Oh right - I didn't realise you've already got a newer key for it. Did you get the key off a donor instrument or did you buy it from Windcraft?
You're best tracking down a donor instrument from a similar era - an Edgware if possible and using the side key from that.
It's a shame B&H let themselves down by using die cast mazak keys as these early wooden Regents aren't bad instruments otherwise.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-02-01 12:26
I just tried a later B&H side Eb/Bb key on a 100000 era Edgware body and the pad cup reached the tonehole adequately.
I doubt B&H would've set out their clarinets differently (pillar and tonehole locations), so wondering if the key you've got is a genuine B&H key.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarimad
Date: 2012-02-01 18:25
On the two donor B&H keys I have in stock the pad cups fail to reach the tone holes hence my query about removing the rod tube and resiting it on the donor keys.
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