 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Elkwoman46
Date: 2011-10-30 19:38
I would like to inquire...and thanks so much in advance, is there a sure way to tell if you are needing to go to a harder reed? If answering, please be sure to write for the returning player, the beginner, or the much more advanced player...I am assuming they all would have different criteria.
As for me, I am the returning player, and had a real hard time playing again some years ago by using the reeds (3.0) that I bought upon recommendation per mouthpiece that came with the clarinet I bought at that time, a Vandoren B45. So, all this went into the closest for some years.
So now using 1 1/2 reeds My attention is drawn at this point to a particular thing. When holding down the six basic fingers over the holes, it is that last six fingers position that has me rattled. I am not sure if I am having a reed that is too weak, or possibly just not skilled enough to play it yet (again--returning player that is). I am having trouble getting it to play the basic D on clarinet (C actual note). I am getting either squeaks or incredibly high notes. And, cough, I mistakenly have been using twill keys to play the B and C (except I am in love with the way it flows and sounds--so clear)...so, though, I messed up and will be doing this right, nonetheless, it is when I have the six fingers down that I seem to hit a weak place in my playing.
Thereby, is it the reed strength? Am I over compensating? Then don't have the power in the reed? Or?
To compound that, I was re-reading an old issue of Wind Player magazine, and the advice given by a pro was to use for practice softer reeds where one could play for hours and then use harder reeds for performance. If you read the article it would make sense. Yet, I wonder from ALL that I have been reading in various places, that too soft reeds can be a hindrance too in various way. Therefore, I would like to know if I am causing myself too much lack by using 1 1/2 reeds. I really like this speed though, but I just wonder.
In the same vein, for future reference, what are the basics in knowing when the next strength is called for? I really have no longer interest in breaking my colon by the way, so I am in no hurry to get harder reeds on purpose. Grin. But I do want to perform well.
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Author: sonicbang
Date: 2011-10-30 21:22
For my B45 Lyre I use VD blue box 3 but I adjust almost all of them. V12 strength 3 need less or no adjustment, but sometimes they are on the weak side. I suggest to try V12 2.5 on your B45.
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2011-10-30 22:19
DISCLAIMER: personal, unprofessional opinion coming up...
I want a reed that requires a stiff embiuchure, but still will allow a rich, non-airy low chalemeau notes. If the low chalemeau notes (low a, g, f, e) are airy and need me to bite, the reed is too stiff. If it is too easy to play (can play it with a loose embouchure), it's too light. A stiff embouchure to me gives the best control and sound. Also, those reeds tend to sound great in the upper clarion and altissimo.
So my perfect reed size I base on the lower chalemeau and then double check with the altissimo.
Alexi
PS - This requires a strong embouchure though. My long tones burn me out, but if I take more than two days off of playing, I REALLY feel it next practice session or rehearsal.
US Army Japan Band
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Author: ohsuzan
Date: 2011-10-30 22:38
Karen, the difficulties you are describing (squeaks, high notes) don't sound to me as if they are reed issues. They sound to me as if they are fingering issues, with not having the holes covered adequately (for one reason or other). The chalumeau (low register) clarinet "d" is created using your ring finger on your left hand, and that is a notoriously weak and problematic finger.
Likewise, when you proceed on down to the right hand notes, the chances of having one of the tone holes not completely covered when you have all six fingers down increases geometrically.
I remember struggling with this as a beginner, and then again as a rebeginner, and even now as a relatively accomplished oboist. Esp. the ring fingers.
Just my. 02.
Susan
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Author: kdk
Date: 2011-10-30 23:02
Elkwoman46 wrote:
> I am having trouble getting
> it to play the basic D on clarinet (C actual note). I am
> getting either squeaks or incredibly high notes.
Zeroing in on this for just a little, I'm assuming you mean D5 (on the chart at the top of this page) - fourth line of the treble staff. Can you produce low G (same fingering without the register key) - concert F, or does that squeak, too?
Does written E (top space) speak easily? What about C (fourth space)?
My own opinion is that a #1-1/2 is too soft for that mouthpiece, but, like Susan, I'm not so sure your squeaks are caused by the reed strength.
Karl
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2011-10-31 04:00
Get off of the 1 1/2 reed strength now. Jump up to a 2 for a month or 2, then a 2 1/2 then depending on the time you put into the clarinet, practicing, prhaps make a jump to the 3's. Thats a pretty safe area to be in for awhile, with practicing a bit everyday.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2011-10-31 05:15
I agree with Bob's advice re moving progressively to a harder reed, but it sounds as though you have a fingering problem. If I understand it, you're having a problem playing with all fingers down. Try this. Adjust your fingers comfortably on the instrument, all fingers down. Now play the note. If it doesn't play, roll your fingers around gently on the holes without actually lifting them.
If you can get the note to play, stop and carefully roll your fingers around one at a time. Do any of them touch any other keys, even gently? A mirror can be useful here. The main culprits for me are the A key, register key and the sliver keys. Even a light touch on these can be sufficient to lift a pad and prevent the instrument from sounding. I have large fingers, so on my regular instruments I shape and shave these keys to prevent interference
Tony F.
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Author: kdk
Date: 2011-10-31 12:30
Tony's suggestion could be dead on. But, to state the obvious, it could also be that there's a mechanical problem with the clarinet. Since your problem starts at D (does low G with the same fingering speak?) it may be a leaky G#/D# pad, or it could be one a little farther up the right hand section. A pad could be torn where you wouldn't be able to see it. It may be that the notes above D on the right hand aren't right either but only get progressively worse until finally the D becomes too unstable to control.
If none of the suggestions for finding finger problems ends up helping, try testing the bottom section for leaks. Quick and dirty method:
*hold the bottom section in your right hand with all holes covered and B key closed,
*cover the end of the bottom tenon with the palm of your hand,
*suck the air out through the top.
*This all works a little more reliably if your fingers and the palm are moist.
If you can create a suction, you probably don't have a leak big enough to cause the problem you're describing. If you can't get a suction that holds for at least a couple of seconds or, worse, you hear a hiss of some kind, there is air getting in through some opening that should be closed, and a trip to a repair shop is in order (unless you can change your own pads).
Failing to cover the holes is a common cause of squeaks in beginners, but since you're a returning player and not really a beginner, I'm assuming this is a problem you didn't have when you were younger. Try jiggling your fingers, but don't obsess over that possibility if you can't find the problem (consider a mechanical leak). Of course, another approach would be to have someone else play your instrument - if they don't have a problem, then you have to go back to fingers as the explanation.
Karl
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Author: Elkwoman46
Date: 2011-11-01 13:23
Thank you everyone for your thoughtful and helpful advice. Thereby, I decided to go back to the basics and go slowly through the courses I have for clarinet. And yesterday, I started to do so.
Also, regarding the reed strength, I plan to try the next step up also, and see where that takes me.
Finally, I will continue all the advice here, and see if I have clarinet issues as well, which might be the case.
Regarding leaks with pads...could bore oil on them, destroy them or affect them if they accidentally got saturated with oil? Very curious what that does to them. And thank you so much.
THANK YOU all so much for helping me along.
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Author: kdk
Date: 2011-11-01 13:42
Elkwoman46 wrote:
>
> Regarding leaks with pads...could bore oil on them, destroy
> them or affect them if they accidentally got saturated with
> oil?
It might - if they got genuinely "saturated" they'd most certainly be damaged. But pads can also dry out (your clarinet has been sitting in the closet for some time). A leak is easy to detect but can be harder to locate once you've found that the section doesn't seal. Sometimes pad damage isn't obvious until you've taken the key off and can see the pad surface. Sometimes even then it's hard to see a small tear unless you're watching for it.
Karl
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Author: Elkwoman46
Date: 2011-11-01 15:06
Thank you, Karl, so much for your reply.
I heard of people actually soaking their entire wood with bore oil inside and out, thought it was okay to overdue it, but I don't think so...but then I even read people using sewing machine oil to apply to the screws and I am thinking about doing that...I just don't think any over doing of any of it really helps the rest of it...lesson learned.
Also, as the weather is rapidly getting cooler, I was over doing the protective stuff because I don't want cracking...to occur.
But is it about the oil usage that saves a clarinet? Isn't it more about the evenness of the cold and heat from inside and outside the clarinet...trying to keep it even is what saves it, yes? Not have extreme cold on the outside of it while one warms it with breath on the inside...very bad, yes? Or playing it for a while, having warmed the inside of it, then walking out with it into a cold environment, type of thing, also bad.
Anyway, I think I've been overloaded with advice about the bore oil...because I think I've actually over did it.  Hoping not too much damage was done to the pads.
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Author: kdk
Date: 2011-11-01 16:46
Elkwoman46 wrote:
> Thank you, Karl, so much for your reply.
>
> I heard of people actually soaking their entire wood with bore
> oil inside and out,
I don't know anyone personally who does this. They soak the wood in an oil bath at the factories for, I think, weeks. People I know who oil their clarinets spread a very thin film - a few drops on a swab - over the inside of the bore, carefully avoiding using enough to get into the tone holes themselves. There is, of course, a lot of opinion around that oiling is completely unnecessary unless the wood has sat for a couple of decades in the Sahara and has completely dried out.
> ...but then I even read people using sewing
> machine oil to apply to the screws and I am thinking about
> doing that...
That, of course, is to lube the screws and make the key action smoother. Generally it isn't necessary unless you hear a lot of noise when the key moves. Repair techs often oil the screw (or the point at which the motion takes place) when they disassemble a key to do any kind of repair. Again, you need to be sparing and not let excess oil flow anywhere near a pad (or a place where your fingers can get into it).
> Also, as the weather is rapidly getting cooler, I was over
> doing the protective stuff because I don't want cracking...to
> occur.
>
Keep the instrument in a normal room temperature environment. If your heating system tends to dry the air out, a humidifier like a Damp-it or pieces of orange peel in the case can help. The main indicator of dryness is that the tenon rings start to loosen. BTW, although it *can* happen, an instrument the age of yours is far less likely to crack than a new one.
> But is it about the oil usage that saves a clarinet? Isn't it
> more about the evenness of the cold and heat from inside and
> outside the clarinet...trying to keep it even is what saves it,
> yes? Not have extreme cold on the outside of it while one
> warms it with breath on the inside...very bad, yes? Or playing
> it for a while, having warmed the inside of it, then walking
> out with it into a cold environment, type of thing, also bad.
>
Yes.
Karl
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