The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: SHMbass
Date: 2011-10-15 16:24
Curious if anyone else had this issue/found the solution.
I use one of the thin metal Bay ligatures (now it is called the Baroque?) without the covering material. When I proceed to remove the mouthpiece from my Bb to switch to A the ligature comes off, deforming the soft metal.
I prefer the advantages to the thin metal/light contact, but not the ability to quickly pull my mp to switch instruments.
Does anyone have suggestions or comments to this before I contact Bay for a possible solution?
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2011-10-15 17:19
Well, I have the same ligature (and also the Spriggs Floating Rail) and the solution is to have a cork on the mouthpiece that is not super tight, keep it well lubricated AND put most of your torque on the beak area (grab mostly above the ligature).
This should solve the issue. You just have to baby this set up if you want to make it work.
....................Paul Aviles
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Author: William
Date: 2011-10-15 19:33
I lay the same barrel on both clarinets so that when switching, I move both barrel & mouthpiece--a much more stable transfer, especially with slippery ligs like yours. FWIW, my clarinets are vintage 1960ish Buffet R13s and my barrel is a stock 65mm one that came with my Bb.
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Author: kdk
Date: 2011-10-15 22:10
I don't know about your Bay ligature, but I've had a similar problem with Gigliotti ligatures I've used the past (if I tighten them enough to be stable on the mouthpiece, I run the risk of breaking the heads off the screws). Assuming the ligature fits the mouthpiece correctly, Paul's solution is the one I used - keep the corks well greased and try to grip as much mouthpiece as possible with as little stress on the ligature as I can manage.
Karl
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2011-10-15 23:14
The Bay ligature is made of very thin metal, which breaks easily. In the leaflet that comes with it, Bay warns you of this and says not to tighten it too much. Of course, this means it tends to slip off when you need to change instruments.
Kalmen Opperman used a heavy, inexpensive Martin ligature (with screws on the bottom), which he recommended to his students. He took needle-nose pliers and bent the metal next to the screws out to create a "shoulder" so it didn't bind on the edges of the wood. This also put a little springiness in the lig.
Richard Stoltzman uses one. I alternate between it and string.
Ken Shaw
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Author: SHMbass
Date: 2011-10-16 12:42
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I will re-cork my mp (original cork is tighter than necassary) and see if there is a way to make a small friction-catch on the lig itself.
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Author: Ed
Date: 2011-10-16 13:14
Put a thin Bay mouthpiece patch on the back of the mouthpiece. It will give the ligature something to grab.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-10-16 17:00
You don't have to get the cork replaced completely - it only needs to be sanded down to make it an easier fit in the barrel (and keep it well greased once that's done), but check the mouthpiece tenon isn't binding in the socket as well.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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