 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: AaronMichael
Date: 2011-08-07 20:22
Hello
I've recently taken all the keys off of my clarinet and need to put them back on because I'm beginning teaching in a little less than a month.
We have a repair department at my store that I could use for supplies, but I would really like to rebuild it myself.
Does anyone know where I could find a detailed instruction list on how to put the keys back on? I'm going to put some new cork on the pads, but I don't have a clue on how to get started with the key replacement. If anyone knows of any good treatments for cleaning they keys, that would also be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Aaron
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Author: kdk
Date: 2011-08-08 15:27
My best advice would be to ask the tech at the store (what does "my" store mean, by the way?) to let you watch him re-assemble the instrument - no re-corking or any other work than just putting the keys back where they belong with the screws that go with them, if that's what you want. Then, having seen it done once, try on your own taking small areas apart at a time. Do whatever work you want to do in terms of pad replacement and other detailed work, then put those keys back on before going on to another area. Disassemble in small sections enough times and you'll eventually learn where everything goes and a few other important things about how the mechanism works as well.
You should get hold of any of several books on clarinet repair, not so much for a key diagram, but for information on when to replace pads, what kind of pads are appropriate for what areas of the instrument, and how to install the new pads. You'd also read about checking tone hole surfaces for nicks and other irregularities and repairing those if necessary, adjusting spring tensions (and replacing the occasional broken one), setting key heights, etc., all of which is involved in making the clarinet play its best.
Not sure what you mean by putting "some new cork on the pads," but if the old pads themselves are cork and really need replacement, you don't put new cork on top of them, you replace the whole pad. Seating cork pads is much trickier than other kinds because their surfaces are not very forgiving of irregularities in the tone hole rim, but they are very durable and rarely need replacement unless they've been visibly damaged. It you meant adding cork to the undersides of some keys to quiet their action, that's a different matter, but you'd still find useful information about that in a good repair book.
I've seen several books about clarinet repair but can't give you specific titles except for two that I've owned for decades and are probably no longer in print: Band Instrument Repairing Manual by Erick Brand and a book I can't seem to find on my shelf, so I don't have the exact title, by (I think, Robert) Schmidt, who sat in Hans Moennig's shop and basically transcribed Moennig's procedures for common repairs. As I say, I bought both books in the early '70s. The Brand book's initial copyright date was 1939 and the copyright on mine is 1946. So many changes in materials and procedures have developed in the intervening years. You might look at Gary Van Cott's website (http://www.vcisinc.com) or the Ferree's Tools website (http://www.ferreestools.com/ for more modern books.
Karl
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Author: CocoboloKid
Date: 2011-08-08 16:05
One might ask why you took all the keys off of your clarinet without knowing how to put them back on...
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-08-08 16:23
Reassembly order on a standard 17 key 6 ring clarinet (if it's only been taken apart for cleaning without replacing any pads), starting with the lower joint:
LH F/C lever*
RH F#/C# key*
RH E/B key
RH F/C and Ab/Eb keys*
Cross B/F# 'sliver' key*
Ring keys
LH levers (both go on together)
Top joint:
Cross Eb/Bb 'sliver' key*
C#/G# key*
LH1 ring
LH2 ring
Thumb ring
Throat A key
Throat G# key*
Trills and side F# key (all three go on together)
Side Eb/Bb key
Speaker key
* Hitch the needle springs up before pushing these keys into place as you may not always be able to do so once they're screwed in place and also so you don't lose the spring tension on closed standing keys.
Work your way back up the list to dismantle it again!
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2011-08-08 17:25)
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Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2011-08-08 17:17
1. Put all the screws and rods in a plastic bag.
2. Shake the bag vigorously.
3. Remove a screw or rod from the bag at random.
4. If you've selected a screw in step 3, find another that matches.
5. Find a key that fits the rod (or screws) selected in step(s) 3 (and 4).
6. Figure out where the key goes and replace it. If another key is in your way, remove it first and replace its rods/screws in the plastic bag. Shake the bag vigorously. Then put the more recently selected key on the clarinet.
7. Repeat steps 2-6 until the clarinet is reassembled or you reach a point where you decide to give up and have someone who knows what s/he is
doing put the clarinet back together.
Best regards,
jnk
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Author: AaronMichael
Date: 2011-08-09 03:13
Chris P that is exactly what I was looking for.. thank you I'll get started tomorrow and keep you guys updated.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2011-08-15 07:24
AaronMichael, I hope you've kept a record of which pivot point screws, and which pivot rod screws belong with each key (and in the case of the point screws, which end of the key).
Otherwise, depending on the instrument, you could be in quite a mess! On many instruments, even the point screws are not interchangeable if you want to preserve good adjustment.
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2011-08-17 01:30
I don't really want to put a damper in your adventure of repairing your clarinet, but getting a few lessons first would really be ideal, or make an appointment with a repairman that would be willing to spend some time with you while you repair the horn. He or she can show you some tricks about seeding the pads , changing the needed cork joints, adding cork pads in the upper register, things like that.
You have to start somewhere, but doing this yourself for the first time can be very frustrating.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
Post Edited (2011-08-17 02:44)
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