 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: super20bu6
Date: 2011-04-14 10:09
Ok...not to overdo my welcome here...but one more question. I have a used Selmer/Bundy Contra Alto that I just got yesterday. Other than a good cleaning...and a couple of out of whack levers which I fixed, can someone look at the left thumb key...tell me if they have a vent hole under that key and if so, do you have a pad under that key??? My contra plays well in the low register....but the middle F# to Bb sound a little "fuzzy" to me. Maybe it's just me and this particular Contra. I've emailed David S about his contra...and he doesn't have that particular vent hole like mine.
I've tried looking up the serial number on Selmer and Bundy lists...but can't find any info for a Contra.
Sorry to be a bother...but learning and asking.
Mark
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Author: LCL
Date: 2011-04-14 15:22
My Selmer Rosewod Model 40 has no hole under the left thumb octave, but it does have a semi-finished depression in the body to allow the key full travel to open the octave pad on the neck.
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Author: William Hughes ★2017
Date: 2011-04-14 15:32
I have Selmer/Bundy contra alto #362 that plays great (thanks in no small part to Mr. Spiegelthal). I will check it tonight and report back.
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Author: William Hughes ★2017
Date: 2011-04-15 18:05
Mark: There is a small vent hole under the left thumb key (I'm not speaking of the register key) and a pad under the key to cover it when pressed. I hope this helps.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-04-15 20:50
The left thumb key on Bundy contra-altos has the touchpiece and the actual pad cup mounted on the same key barrel - it isn't a doubled tonehole. The touchpiece (with the empty pad cup) has a recess cut into the body so the underside of the thumb touch doesn't make contact with the body which will prevent the pad closing.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: super20bu6
Date: 2011-04-16 09:25
That does help, William. I must have a pad missing under the thumb key. All else seems to work fine...register key might need some new felt at the top where it meets the neck. I just needed clarification on that pad under the thumb.
Thanks to all for their input!
Mark
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-04-16 15:27
There is no pad under the left thumb touch - it's an empty cup as there's no tonehole there, just the recess cut into the body to make sure the thumb touch doesn't make contact with the body of the instrument. The actual tonehole is further up the joint which is operated by the left thumb touch.
The stuffy middle F#-Bb is most likely due to poor venting or build-up in toneholes and you said it was 'out of whack' and you've had a go at regulating it so that could explain the poor response if you haven't got enough venting or the toneholes are blocked, so check them.
If can you get all the low register notes down to low Eb and all the notes above the break then poor venting or occluded toneholes are most likely what the problem is.
Also try playing on a softer reed to see if this helps as playing on too hard a reed will make the lower register stuffy.
If the LH thumb pad was missing you wouldn't get anything below open G - you'd only be able to play throat notes and not much else.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2011-04-16 17:48)
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Author: super20bu6
Date: 2011-04-16 23:24
Chris,
Thanks for that info. I could tell there was a cut out under the thumb key...but there was also a hole in the middle of that cut. Plus the thumb key looks like something had been glued there previously. I removed the thumb key and the register mechanism over that key this morning..and discovered "the hole" I saw under the key goes nowhere. It's just in the middle of the cut out.
I've used 2 1/2 and 3 reeds on the Contra...I just need to find the right mix of ligature and reed strength to go with the Selmer C* mouthpiece that came with the contra.
As you suggested, I'll check the venting and toneholes for the throat range next for blockages. The bottom end on this contra is no problem....it'll rattle out a low Eb just fine!
Thanks!!!
Mark
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Author: William Hughes ★2017
Date: 2011-04-19 17:38
Sorry for my erroneous posting, Mark. I'm glad Chris could straighten us both out. I, too, saw the "hole" and assumed the pad was there for that reason. Good luck with your Contra.
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2011-04-20 01:19
William, what may have fooled you was the felt I probably put under the thumb key to act as a redundant 'stop' for the key, to keep it from getting bent from pressing it too hard. There are a couple of other keys on the contra-alto (the r.h. index finger key comes to mind as one example) where I usually do that sort of thing. No tonehole underneath!
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Author: super20bu6
Date: 2011-04-20 10:48
William,
Not a problem. That "hole" in the cut out really had me fooled. I KNOW that things can change over time with manufacturing....so thought maybe you and I had different models of the Contra. Overall, I'm pleased with the way this Contra plays...and the condition it's in. Granted, I DID have to do a cleaning..I think it'd been sitting for a while.
Now....another question for you contra players. Has anyone ever had a peg assembly added to their contra??? I know it can be done to a bass clarinet...but I'm 6'4" and this contra is about 3 inches below where it needs to be for me to play it comfortably. I've seen people use wood blocks or other things....but maybe I should have a peg added to this one. Anyone tried this before??
Mark
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-04-20 12:04
Have a short floor spike fitted - get the Bundy bass clarinet floor spike attachment and either have it soldered to the back of the bell socket or screwed to the back of the body just above the tenon depending which is more stable. If the bell wobbles about on the tenon, best have it fitted to the body - but you will have to do some alterations to the case unless there's already enough room for it to fit.
The floor spike attachment is the most expensive part as it is a big chunk of metal, then the locking screw, thumb screw and spike (best getting an unplated steel one as the locking screw grips it better than a nickel plated one) will all be around the same price as the attachment.
The steel floor spike can be shortened as you don't need all the extra length (and you could make two different length ones from it). They come with a small rubber bit on the end which probably won't last that long.
You can always fit a Wolf Super Endpin to it to both stop the spike damaging the floor and also to prevent it slipping about on polished or shiny floors.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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