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 Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: BassClarinetBaby 
Date:   2011-04-11 15:40

I purchased a new Buffet R13 a month ago and the keys have already begun to tarnish. My teacher polished it with a silver cloth and it came right off though. I know it is not from the oils in my skin as the tarnishing appears on parts I do not touch, and the most frequently used keys are fine. What could be the cause of this and what can I do to fix it?

Also, the joints are very tight to fit together and sometimes stick when I try to take them apart. I live in the tropics of Australia, so the humidity level is through the roof and I'm sure this has something to do with the problem. Will the problem ease as the cork decompresses? It's coming into winter so I'm thinking it shouldn't be as much of a problem then either. Oh, and does rocking a stuck joint VERY carefully to get it apart do any long-term damage?

Thank you.

Never Bb, sometimes B#, and always B natural! ♫♪

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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2011-04-11 16:37

The case lining is most likely the cause of the tarnish - I bought a brand new R13 Eb case for my freshly rebuilt and silver plated 1962 R13 Eb and it tarnished up a treat compared to my Selmer which I keep in a Yamaha case which was done a few months before. Same plating firm used in both instances.

Joints binding is common on new wooden clarinets as the wood os moving - it's not the cork, but the tenon rings that are binding in the sockets and they will need to be refitted by shaving or skimming a very small amount of wood from them. Don't use sandpaper to do this as you'll remove too much, but take it back to where you bought it from to have them refit the joints as it should be covered by the manufacturer's warranty provided you haven't had anyone unauthorised have a go at it.

You are best rocking them but not using excessive force to undo them if they bind solid, so you are doing the right thing there.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: Caroline Smale 
Date:   2011-04-11 19:03

The sulphur from a newish ebonite (hard rubber) mouthpiece can also cause silver to tarnish.
Try keeping your mouthpiece outside the case for a while to see if that helps.



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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: Franklin Liao 
Date:   2011-04-11 19:06

I would also recommend getting Gleam from The Doctor's Products. This stuff works wonders as a mean of anti-tarnish agent that isn't troublesome.

By the way, ebonite and silver tarnishing is one of the reasons why you don't see ebonite horns offered with silver plating, although there are ways to overcome this with plating tricks... (although it's not an issue with the Grenadilla body of R-13 and all)



Post Edited (2011-04-11 19:17)

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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: Ken Shaw 2017
Date:   2011-04-11 19:42

The tenons often swell on new Buffets, and the sockets shrink. If there's any "bite" at all when you take the instrument apart, it's caused by wood-against-wood binding. This is a prime cause of cracking and is an emergency that must be taken care of immediately.

Kelmen Opperman used a socket reamer for his barrels, but other techs sand down the tenon (both at the end and at the top shoulder), which is easier. It's just that if the socket has shrunk, then reducing the size of the tenon means that any other barrel will be lose.

I use 3M Silver Protector Anti-Tarnish Strips http://www.amazon.com/3M-Silver-Protect-Strip-Protector/dp/tags-on-product/B003LDL8SG, which need to be replaced every 6 months or so. If that's not good enough, and you have (or have a friend with) a sewing machine, you can get a square yard or two of anti-tarnish cloth http://www.amazon.com/Anti-tarnish-silver-cloth/dp/B001OQU0YU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1302550628&sr=8-1 and make "joint pajamas."

Ken Shaw

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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: BassClarinetBaby 
Date:   2011-04-11 23:47

It's not exactly easy to take my clarinet back to where I ordered it to have the wood shaved. I live in a small town with no repair facilities or even music stores. I bought the clarinet from somewhere that is a 2-day drive away, so postage there and back is phenomenal - I just can't afford it. I may be travelling down that way for a workshop in June or July though, could I get away with waiting until then?

Never Bb, sometimes B#, and always B natural! ♫♪

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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: Grabnerwg 
Date:   2011-04-12 04:31

It's OK to wait for awhile, but make sure that you never force the clarinet to get it together. That can lead to getting the barrel stuck on the upper joint or the two joints stuck together. High humidity makes this worse. It seldom happens in the dry months.

What you are experiencing is very common with new clarinets as the wood gets used to intermittent wetting and drying.

Walter Grabner
www.clarinetxpress.com

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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: TomD 
Date:   2011-04-13 15:50

I have a Yamaha CSG with hamilton plating. I was getting mild tarnish on the keys but since I started using the Hagerty anti-tarnish strips in the case, it has been fine. Once every 3 months, I wipe the keys down with a Goddard's sliver polish cloth. The horn is over 4 years old and the keys look like new.

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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: Matt Locker 
Date:   2011-04-13 16:10

My Yamahas are 8-9 years old & have never tarnished. I always keep the 3M anti-tarnish strips in the case. They are supposed to lasts 6 months but I only replace them every 9 months or so.

MOO,
Matt

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 Re: Tarnished keys and sticking joints on a NEW clarinet
Author: Bassie 
Date:   2011-04-14 09:02

If it goes together OK but then sticks fast, just leaving it somewhere cool and dry for a week can sometimes get it apart (dries out the playing moisture). Then you get it fixed. If it's a month old it should be under guarantee so taking it back is best. Having said that I have adjusted my own instrument's centre tenon with a needle file, vernier caliper and a lot of patience. Remember: look twice, cut once, and you can't put anything back. Opinions differ on bore oil but I find that a very sparing application (few drops on a pull-through) stabilises things a bit.

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