 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: kiseoglee
Date: 2011-03-04 00:24
I've purchased beautiful Selmer Signature, a Gold-plated limited edition, manufactured in 2000 (an anniversary model).
It looks awsome and has no significant mechanical problem at present(checked by specialist) however, previous user fixed every joints except barrels using special adhesive.
What kind of disadvantages can occurs when upper, lower joints and bells are in one-piece?
How can I care this special instrument to prevent troubles?
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2011-03-04 04:12
If the crack repairs were done by a good tech you should be in great shape. Can you explain the type of adhesive? In the old days cracks were fixed only by pinning. Repairmen still pin horns but adhesive seems to work well too.
If the repair was done by someone with no experience, it may be wise to have the horn redone the correct way.
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Author: kiseoglee
Date: 2011-03-04 04:41
Thank you for kind answer.
However, there is no crack.
Previous user united 3 parts (upper, lower joints and bells) of clarinet into one-piece. He thought it would be better to care and to prevent damages during assembly and dismantling.
He said the joints were glued together by special resin by a profesional repair-person.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2011-03-04 05:08
I'm not sure what cracks Bob is referring to. Maybe I misunderstood but I thought the OP meant the main joints and bell are simply glued together as opposed to having a cork tenon that is possible to disassemble.
Some disadvantages:
- Finding a case that fits.
- If a case does fit, probably won't fit into a normal bag/back pack.
- Repairs can be slower and sometimes more difficult.
- Can't align the joints thw way you prefer to have them.
- Maybe some glue found its way to the bore? Maybe you can check.
- If no glue in the bore, maybe the glue doesn't cover all the small gap so there's a small air gap in the joints, where you can't dry the water.
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Author: jasperbay
Date: 2011-03-04 05:09
If the joints were glued professionally, in a watertight manner (and the old cork grease carefully removed), I'm not sure any damage would occur by leaving it as it is. There is also a danger of causing serious damage by trying to dissassemble a glued together horn.
You might even grow to appreciate the previous owner's admittedly "outside the box" thinking. I sure like being able to just pick up my metal clarinets and playing when the mood strikes me.
I have a wooden german recorder that had loose, leaky joints, and I couldn't replace the cork since it was in the 'female' part of the joints. I silicone glued the joints, haven't had any problems, finger holes stay lined up perfectly now!!
There is another current thread " Can I Leave My Clarinet Assembled?"
Clark G. Sherwood
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Author: kiseoglee
Date: 2011-03-04 06:29
Thanks for your consideration.
Previous owner gave me a good case for one-piece clarinet. It dosen't matter.
The allignment fits for me except for lower position of register key.
Is there any key which the clarinet should be dismantled when it needs balancing or repair?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-03-04 08:52
You'll have a lot of trouble removing the C#/G# key and the screws facing each other for the RH and LH ring keys as the pillars will be very close at the middle joint, so all in all it wasn't a good idea for whoever had it before to glue the whole insrument together.
One-piece metal clarinets and Eb clarinets are designed and built in such a manner that the keywork can be removed easily enough, but a standard clarinet is designed so the keywork can be removed while the joints are separated and once the joints are assembled, access to certain screws (the ones by the middle joint) is limited.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: jasperbay
Date: 2011-03-04 15:06
I can't see that the 'design' of my metal clarinets differ in any way from my wood clarinets, making their screws easier to remove. True, there's a little better screwdriver access due to the smaller tube OD, but otherwise I see little difference.
Even if a couple screws are tough to get out, I've yet to run into a pad that couldn't be replaced, in a pinch, with the key left on the horn. I've had to do this many times when the pivot screw, or axle shaft, is 'rusted in', and I didn't see any point in risking screw removal damage.
Clark G. Sherwood
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-03-04 15:34
Metal clarinets (single piece ones and single piece wooden ones) will often have a single shared pillar right in the middle in between the RH and LH2 rings by the bridge key (both the LH rings are usually mounted on a single rod screw running all the way from the top to the centre pillar) and the C#/G# is usually mounted on the lower level of this shared pillar.
If there were two opposing pillars only a few mm apart, then removing the point screws and the C#/G# key will be tricky if not impossible.
Single piece Eb clarinets will have the same arrangement with a shared pillar in the centre by the bridge key.
You can try this out by assembling your Bb clarinet and trying to remove the screws at the middle joint (with it still assembled and not rotating the joints). You won't get the C#/G# key off in a million years (unless you take a hacksaw to it!).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2011-03-04 15:36)
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2011-03-04 15:51
>> You can try this out by assembling your Bb clarinet and... <<
I just checked this with an R13 from about ten years ago. The length of the C#/G# rod screw was just a little more than the length left between the bottom C#/G# post and the top post of the right hand rings. It looked like it was little enough that, once the rod is as out as possible, it could be angled a little to remove it from the clarinet (from the thread part being loose in the non-threaded post). I'm not completely sure though and didn't actually check. But it's pretty sure that you could remove the key even if the rod screw wouldn't come out completely.
But yeah, this is one othe things that make it more difficult to work on. Also the bell there, just annoying and in the way. Checking for leaks too (much easier for each seperate joint). Not impossible, but just more difficult or slower.
Post Edited (2011-03-05 04:38)
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Author: Tobin
Date: 2011-03-04 18:32
I have to ask: what happens when I'm out of tune and I'd like to make an adjustment?
James
Gnothi Seauton
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