The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Aussie Nick
Date: 2001-01-03 05:04
Hey all. I normally use V12 size 4 reeds and I generally don't need to work too much on them straight out of the box. I am fairly happy with them but lately Ive been experimenting with Mitchell Lurie reeds. the 4.5's were too soft for me but i rathr liked the tonal qualities this reed gave me, so I now have a box of 5's. They are slightly too hard so I want to sand them down. What type of sandpaper is best for this? Does rubbing the back of the reed on plain paper help do the trick? thanks.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: bob gardner
Date: 2001-01-03 13:51
first rule is --do no harm.
Try plain paper first then go with the highest sandpaper you can find.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Reds
Date: 2001-01-03 16:12
#1 'Air' your reeds. I.e., Stick them on to a small pane of glass, and leave them by an open window for 24 hours. This acclimatises the reeds.
#2 Play different areas of the reed- Check each side of the reed for hardness-use fine emery paper to SLIGHTLY thin the reed
** Try standard Vandoren reeds, size 3 1/2 -4
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Anji
Date: 2001-01-03 16:29
Hey AN,
When I lighten up heavier reeds (I'm doing same as you with Rico GC #5.) I sand the back with 600 grit GARNET paper that I have taken down.
I take two small sheets and rub them against each other until they're slightly less rough.
Plate glass surface/600 grit paper/reed flat on paper/Light pressure < --- > for maybe 10 laps.
Leav'em alone OVERNIGHT before test playing.
I think this was one of Larry Guy's chapters in the reed book, but I like it well enough to wish I had thought it up, ya know after I invented the Internet.
anji
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Andy
Date: 2001-01-04 02:05
Hey Nick,
Try and get your hands on some "wet and dry" sandpaper as it is usually called in Australia. It is really fine and just a couple of rubs on the area surrounding the heart of the reed, but never on the heart I find is a good start. Also polishing the backs of the reeds with some good quality paper, will smooth out any inconsistencies on the back. I've also done a bit of work with dutch rush, but it is very abrasive and does more harm then good a lot of the time.
Andy
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: jerry
Date: 2001-01-04 23:17
David Pinot's book "The Clarinet and Clarnet Playing" has a chapter on making your own reeds. The chapter also includes a fairly detailed description of how to make commercially made reeds playable, including how to test them.
~ jerry
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ken Rasmussen
Date: 2001-01-05 04:11
I've been using a reed knife or any sharp, stiff, straight or nearly straight knife to work on the convex side of the reed (the side against the lower lip). I stay away well away from the tip, and work on the side and middle uniformly by scraping--not slicing or whittling. I hold the reed against a reed shaped piece of plexiglass for support while I'm working. I buy my reeds slightly stiff and work them down until they play freely. I do a little at a time over several days until they begin to play. I rarely get an unsatisfactory reed. I play four reeds in rotation. I think rotating them prolongs their life a lot, because it takes forever to wear one out. When one does go I frequently get more time by clipping the end.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
|