 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Bill
Date: 2000-12-30 22:58
How long should a reed that is broken-in be soaked prior to playing??
I think I've been soaking mine too long. I typically put 3 reeds in water, and rotate them as I practice. It could be 30 minutes before I get to the third reed. I'm starting to think that a minute or two is more appropriate.
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Author: Dee
Date: 2000-12-31 00:14
I've always found that about the length of time it takes to put the clarinet together works out about right. If I change reeds during a session, I'll soak the new one about the equivalent time and let my embouchure rest and just look over the music a bit for the short time that it takes. Reeds can get waterlogged and then then tend to be very sluggish in response.
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Author: Julia
Date: 2000-12-31 00:14
I don't know how long I usually do it, but I can tell you what I do. I normally put the reed in my mouth when I open my case--that way, while I'm putting my instrument together and getting stuff out, my reed is soaking. If I use more than one reed when practicing, I just switch reeds and wait a little while (with the reed in my mouth), and then keep practicing. Seems to work fine---is what I've always done. It probably ends up lasting for about a minute or a minute and a half.
Best of luck,
Julia
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Author: John gibson
Date: 2000-12-31 02:09
I always soak a new package of reeds in a cup of water for 20--30 minutes...
put them in my Van Doren holder for a day...then take them out one by one...
play on one reed for a fifteen minute interval... and go to the next...somethng I saw in a book I think....and it works very well....
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Author: Anji
Date: 2000-12-31 16:09
John is on the same page as me,
I play a new reed no more than 15 minutes each day for the first ten days.
After playing, I lay it on a piece of plate glass (like inside the Vandy holder) and press toward the tip.
This supposedly helps to seal the top layer and prevent premature breakdown.
Dude, get Larry Guy's book it is worth the $$.
anji
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Author: Bill
Date: 2000-12-31 16:27
Author: Anji wrote:
Dude, get Larry Guy's book it is worth the $$.
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I started going through the book the other day, and it is what made me start to realize I was soaking reeds way too long.
Great book. Now I need a video on reed work.
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Author: Anji
Date: 2000-12-31 22:00
That sounds like opportunity beckoning, to me.
I wonder if Larry would coproduce something like this?
Sorry to presume, it's just that his book has LOADS of good stuff enclosed.
I think Tom Ridenour has a link (buried in here somewhere) with some of the same material, and a few alternative methods to boot.
Lemme put in two cents, here;
I use the red sandpaper (garnet) of the recommended grits and rub two sheets together to take it down a little.
Most of what I find useful is in getting a really smooth top and bottom surface.
"Wringing" out the reed is crucial... when you press toward the tip and the residue is cloudy, the reed is still too young.
When the residue is clear, it's pretty much set.
For me, it's three days before I'm onto anything definitive (good or bad).
I use a Legere #3 3/4 as a standard. It will never possess the vibrance of a good piece o'cane, but it will be pretty constant.
Have you started to work with a heavier strength and some sanding down?
This is my current fave; no knives and the shape is already defined. This keeps more meat in the heart of the reed, and allows me to taper each reed as needed.
anji
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Author: Bill
Date: 2000-12-31 22:33
Author: Anji wrote:
That sounds like opportunity beckoning, to me.
I wonder if Larry would coproduce something like this?
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I spoke to Tom Ridenour a couple of months ago, and he said that he's interested, but production costs are prohibitive.
I use a Legere #3 3/4 as a standard. It will never possess the vibrance of a good piece o'cane, but it will be pretty constant.
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I purchased my first Legere reed last week. It's surprisingly good. I find that when I stop blowing, unlike a cane reed, the sound "dies" immediately. This is the only negative, but I'm adjusting to it. What do you mean by "use as a standard", e.g., do you mean for tone?
Have you started to work with a heavier strength and some sanding down?
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I just started on my first reed (half strength heavier than I use). Today was day #2. I'm trying to get the hang of what's involved in the process, and familiar with the use of tools and materials. I already have a problem (day #1) using the 1/4 inch wide sandpaper. It is hard to keep between the reed and my index finger. Day #2, using a bevel edge reed knife, went very well.
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Author: Anji
Date: 2000-12-31 23:05
I use the Legere as a tonal standard, as you suspect. I don't claim the sound to be terrific, but it is acceptable and relatively constant.
I can't handle the small pieces of sandpaper, so I wrap it 'round a standard pencil.
Alternately, I fold a piece of sandpaper so that there is a 1/4" wide strip about 3" long. This gives me sumpin' to hold.
I also tend to do most of my scrapin' toward me and sandn' away from me.
Wearing an apron looks a little silly, but it makes for easier clean up.
Here's a cheapskate tip, the great double beveled knives are just old straight razors with a fixed wooden handle.
Good luck on this!
anji
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Author: Ken Shaw
Date: 2001-01-02 23:22
When you initially wet a reed (or at least a cane reed), the tip gets all wavy, making it impossible to play. If I keep it wet in saliva or water, it takes about 5 minutes for the tip to flatten out. I usually get impatient and flatten the tip against the table with my thumb, saving approximately 5 seconds.
Seriously -- the reed is ready when the tip flattens out. Just keep things wet until it does. Each reed has its own clock.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
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