 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Fred
Date: 2000-12-25 23:37
I am considering whether or not to have my 1966 R-13 keys replated. They are nickel; if I went to the expense of having the job done I would probably opt for silver.
What does it take to do the job right? Does the quality of product vary a lot? Who have you had good luck with . . . or vice versa?
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Author: jbutler
Date: 2000-12-25 23:56
The keys (posts and keys if you want them to match) must be taken off the clarinet. The posts and rings must be attatched to a copper wire, but not the keys. I usually strip phone wire and attatch the posts and rings to it. Take them off and place the in a specific order that you can remember where they go back on. Of course you have to remove the springs( flat springs and also needle springs if your sending the posts) . You'll also have to strip off all key corks. I like to put a kink in the copper wire so that they don't slip. Count each item, ie, 20 keys, 33 posts and 4 rings. Ship them to Anderson Silver Plating Co. Inc; 541 Industrial Parkway, PO Box 541, Elkhart, Indiana, 46515. Include instructions that you want the keys (posts and rings if desired) stripped, buffed, degreased and silver plated. Be sure you include all four instructions, otherwise it may not be done. Expect to pay about $125 for the service and at least four to five weeks turnaround. (They shut down completly during the Holidays for about a week or so) Then you must do a complete repad/overhaul. The keys that need swedging and posts that need attention to pivot screws need to be done before sending them off for plating, otherwise you'll wind up wearing off the new plating swedging keys. Are you planning to have the clarinet overhauled by a technician or are you planning on repadding this instrument yourself? It may be more feasible for you technician to do the whole job. I know I would prefer it that way.
John
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Author: Fred
Date: 2000-12-26 00:34
There is no way . . . in my wildest dreams . . . (which would quickly turn to nightmares) . . . that I would attempt this myself. This would definitely be part of a complete overhaul.
That brings up a related point. I think a standard overhaul should address all mechanical issues, replacement of all corks, and provide good seals at pads and joints. The keys should have a uniform "feel", the wood should be oiled, and all pad-related tuning and voicing issues should be addressed. Is that about standard, or am I off base?
When I think of plusses, I think of carefully evaluating the instrument's character note by note and adjusting tone holes and/or undercutting. But I also wonder:
1) How often is this really necessary if all the above was done correctly;
2) How many overhaulers are comfortable doing this kind of work.
Can you comment on my assumptions, and perhaps fill in the gaps that I glossed over (such as the four components of replating that John mentioned and about which I knew nothing.)
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2000-12-26 13:22
The important thing is that you assume that all overhauls are not equal. They vary from dismal and unreliable to astonishing the player and great reliability. You must thoroughly investigate the repair technician's reputation first, asking players who are NOT his best mate!
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Author: jbutler
Date: 2000-12-26 18:57
(Per email request from Fred)
I do a standard overhaul which includes:
Swedging of keys and removing lost action from pivot linkages, complete buffing of keys, body and bore. Special care is taken to refinish tone holes if necessary. The wood is polished (both bore and outside). New needle springs are installed. Flat springs are replaces as necessary. New key corks and tenon corks are placed on keys and tenons. Teflon is put on keys where it is important to reduce friction, ie., F# in upper joint and C/F in lower joint. Teflon insert is placed in G# adjusting screw to reduce noise and friction. Premium bladder pads are installed or hand faced cork pads are installed in upper joint and in lower joint for the B and Bb. Premium double bladder pads are put in the lowest four keys. Key height is adjusted for optimal tuning. I don't mess around with undercutting or or adjust tone holes.
John
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2000-12-27 11:21
I do much the same. Instead of teflon I use a different materiaI which I prefer. I don't replace needle springs unless they have deteriorated, especially in view of how easily currently avalable ones rust and how the untapered replacement S/S ones seem to have more friction in their action. I often attend to insecure key posts. Making caps for wobbly centre tenons is fairly common but this would probably be regarded as an extra.
Gordon
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Author: William
Date: 2000-12-27 18:36
I've had two clarinets silver plated from nickel and one gold plated from silver. All three are still in pristine condition after considerable use. I believe all three of my replates were done at a place my techs called Allied.
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