 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: THE Big J
Date: 2000-12-22 19:39
Ok, hi I'm Jeanie. I got a clarinet a little while ago (about a month ago) and I would like to know when to oil my clarinet, and how I do it in lamest terms (I'm not very educated in clarinet technical terms). Thanks.
-The Jeanster
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Author: Anji
Date: 2000-12-22 23:08
Hey Jeanie,
If the horn is new, it will have something of a schedule in the leaflet.
The recommendation of my local tech (we're in a dry environment, upstate NY) is once a year.
I would touch base with Richard Butler, a friend of Sneezy for an experienced view.
Over oiling can actually change the bore diameter and induce tonal weirdness.
If you decide to do it yourself, you can buy pure pressed Almond oil in the cooking oil section of most grocery stores. I understand "Extra-Virgin" Olive oil is also highly filtered. I would not use any mineral oil based treatments.
I refinish furniture and prefer to use vegetable based oils as the primary treatment.
Please - contact a few local repair techs and get a poll. The least invasive approach is the one I would use.
Best of luck,
anji
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Author: jbutler
Date: 2000-12-23 01:24
I use apricot or almond oil during my overhaul process, but oiling should be left to the repair technician when you take it in for regular servicing. She/He will also lubricate the keys with a minute amount of key oil also. If you prefer to learn to do this on your own I would suggest that you get your repair technician to show you how. Most will be glad to assist. Some will tell you not to fool with it because they fear that it will be done incorrectly and that you will get oil on the pads, etc.
John
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Author: Willie
Date: 2000-12-23 04:29
Definately check with your tech if you don't know what to look for. You can oil too much. I have one here that actually seeps oil on the outside and has to be wiped off every time I open the case. It is literally saturated. The pads are soaking up this oil too. I'm not sure how I'm going to tackle this problem yet (I'm open to suggestions), but until I find a way to get rid of the excess oil, this one is useless.
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Author: ron b
Date: 2000-12-23 07:24
Willie -
Have you tried wrapping the horn in a bag of sawdust for a couple of weeks? Shake it every day or so. If the pads are badly soaked you'll need to take the keys off since you'll probably have to repad it anyway. I've never tried pad preservative but, if the horn is still oily after the sawdust routine, you might be justified using some.
ron b
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2000-12-23 08:28
If in doubt, don't oil the bore. If it was established that this was definitely desirable the manufacturers would state this clearly in their literature. Many oils damage the wood fibres. I gave up almond oil decades ago when I found that it eventually went rancid. Yuck! A clarinet saturated with oil is heavy and is known to play worse. Oil damages pads.
But were you writing about oiling the key mechanism?
I reckon 2 or 3 times per year with drops no larger than a sesame seed, applied to the crack between each key and its 'posts'. Use the eye of a needle or a pin head or a tooth pick to apply small drops. This is mainly to reduce noisiness of the mechanism and to prevent rust.
Use sewing machine oil from a good brand name. Never use 3-in-1 oil which doubles as a furniture polish and leaves a gummy residue as it evaporates. Or better still use the totally synthetic Alisyn key (or heavy duty) oil which you woodwind shop can order from Ferree's, which is very slow to evsaporate and leaves NO residue.
It is common for pivots, even if oiled once per year, to rust if they are in a case in which the ends of the pivots are in contact with an absorbent case lining. The lining absorbs the oil and the little that remains evaporates. The exposed pivot rod areas near the post may be contacted with corrosive hand perspiration..... and a damp cleaning cloth is kept inside the case, raising the huditiy.... the perfect recipe for rust.
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Author: jbutler
Date: 2000-12-23 11:48
Gordon,
Almond and apricot are very good oils to use. I keep mine in a small refrigerator and no problems with going rancid. Also, I add vitamin E to them as an antioxidant to help stabilize them. The only oil going rancid is the residue left on the swab that I use to apply the oil. I just pitch them and start over with a new one when that occurs.
John
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Author: Willie
Date: 2000-12-24 00:04
Not a bad idea there. I know I'll have to strip it, the pads are soaked also. I may wait till summer as it seeps more when its warm.
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Author: Stephen Froehlich
Date: 2000-12-24 03:34
Perhaps it would be helpful to put the bag 'o sawdust somewhere where the teperature is constant and warm. Perhaps on top of the water heater?
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Author: Willie
Date: 2000-12-24 04:01
I'm afraid its too hot there. Mine is a gas unit and that chimney gets VERY hot.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2000-12-24 12:42
jbutler: You acknowledge the oil goes rancid on the rag, where it is exposed to plenty air. Can you suggest any reason at all why it would not similarly go rancid in the bore, where it is also exposed to air. It may just take a little longer. Do you just throw the bore away then? Rancid oil is like half-set varnish - very difficult to deal with, and stinks!
If you must use bore oil I suggest you use one of the following:
1. Search the thread "bore oiling & cork grease", read the posting by Omar Henderson, contact him, and buy his product which is at least well researched and formulated scientifically.
2. Your local supplier can order from Ferree's, Alisyn bore oil. At least this product is totally synthetic and cannot go rancid.
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Author: jbutler
Date: 2000-12-24 15:45
Gordon,
If you add an antioxident to the oil you don't have the problem. I add vitamin E. I've been doing this for many years without a problem of oil going "rancid" in the clarinet. Yes, I know the Doctor's products, but haven't a need to order any until I deplete my current supply of oil. I've got Selmer and Buffet clarinets of my own that I've overhauled a long time ago and no sign of any rancid odor. It also takes a very long time for me to switch out bore oilers. We're talking about lasting over a year before the start smelling a little "funky". Sorry, but I beg to differ with you on the subject.
John
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Author: mw
Date: 2000-12-25 00:45
We have one of JB's overhauls that is 2 years "old". Nary a problem with anything, and John really oiled this 120xxx R-13 from the early 1970's that hadn't been played in some time when overhauled. mw
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