 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2010-05-16 17:26
I have a clarinet on which the previous owners father used Loctite to stop the rod screws from loosening. Some of them undid with the application of force and mild heat, but others refuse to move. The clarinet is plastic and is a nice Buffet Evette, so I'd like to get them undone without damaging the instrument, if poosible. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks.
Tony F.
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Author: SteveG_CT
Date: 2010-05-16 17:47
Depending on which type of loctite was used, you may be able to use acetone to loosen the hold. I would try placing a drop of acetone on the tip of the threaded end of the screw if possible and let it sit for a few minutes before attempting dis-assembly again. If that doesn't work you will need to use heat. For applying heat I would suggest using a soldering iron with a sharp pencil tip and trying to heat just the tip of the screw in order to minimize the threat of melting the plastic body.
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Author: dansil
Date: 2010-05-17 11:08
And don't forget to let all the acetone evaporate before you try using heat as a red -hot soldering iron could just ignite any residual acetone liquid!
Danny
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Author: RAB
Date: 2010-05-17 12:20
I have used a product called "PB Blaster" You can get it at an automotive parts store. Put it in a small container and use a toothpick or a needle to put it on the end of the screw where the threads are and where it meets the post. You might have to do this several times.
Also use the biggest screwdriver you can in order to get a good "grip" on the slot and not destroy the slot in the rod.
Perhaps someone can help you by holding the clarinet and you can use a pair of pliers or small vice grips on the screwdriver to get some extra torque on the screw.
If this is unsuccessful then take it to a good tec, Having a tec do this is cheaper than replacing a post if something go bad.
Hope this helps!!
Rodney Berry
Repair Dept
Muncy Winds Music Company
Boone, N.C.
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Author: Lelia Loban ★2017
Date: 2010-05-17 12:34
To protect the plastic if you have to use heat, or to protect a wooden clarinet, I use a heat-sink. This product looks and feels like heavy, cardboard-y paper. It blocks transmission of heat. I'm a retired stained glass designer-builder and still using up heat-sink left over from my business. I bought mine from a mail-order stained glass supply warehouse that's now out of business. However, large hardware stores sell heat-sink in the department that carries soldering and welding equipment. Tuck the heat-sink as closely as possible under the metal parts you need to heat.
Lelia
http://www.scoreexchange.com/profiles/Lelia_Loban
To hear the audio, click on the "Scorch Plug-In" box above the score.
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2010-05-17 13:19
If you have access to a vice then you can get a much better purchase on the screw by holding the stem of screwdriver in the vice with just sufficient extending outwards to reach the slot.
Then apply the clarinet with screwhead to the driver and use gentle body weight to keep the slot and driver in good positive alignment and engagement. You can now use gentle leverage on the clarinet body to help turn the screw.
As noted in earlier posts above a good screw driver with good and correctly proportioned tip is essential.
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2010-05-17 14:39
If all else fails you may have to carefully cut away half of the post into which the rod screw is stuck (without cutting into the rod itself), using a Dremel-type circular saw tool (the thinnest possible). This should expose enough of the end of the rod screw for you to grasp it with some good pliers and remove it. If you do this well you'll still have a usable post in the end, although it will look a bit odd.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2010-05-17 15:06
Don't get acetone on the clarinet itself.
Bob Draznik
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2010-05-18 16:41
Thanks to all that responded. I've used acetone, heat and the vice trick to get all but one moving. Unfortunately, the slot on that one has disintegrated, but Ithink I can work out a way to attack it from behind, so to speak. Once again, many thanks.
Tony F.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2010-05-19 11:05
The moral of this, is to get somebody experienced, with the most appropriate of screw drivers, BEFORE you wreck the slot!
Another approach is to use high-force, smooth-jaw pliers to squeeze hard on the pivot TUBE, hence gripping the rod inside, and turn it a fraction of a turn, to loosen its grip.
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1368&groupID=1500
But myself, I've never known appropriate heat with appropriate force with an appropriate screw driver to fail with Loctite.
BTW, are you sure the rod is not jammed in the pivot tube, perhaps as well? This calls for a different approach.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2010-05-19 11:57
Clarnibass,
I've printed your post, and it now forms part of my reference library.
Gordon,
The pivot tube is quite free, the problem is in the post. I used to work as an aviation instrument repairer, so you can be sure my screwdrivers are as good as they can be. When I get a difficult one like this I grind one specific to the job. This slot was on its way out before I ever got to it. I've worked out a way to recut a slot, so I'll let you know how it works out.
Thanks.
Tony F.
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Author: RAB
Date: 2010-05-19 12:25
I would try to use the smallest easy out you can find and see if that works first.
If not::::
You can try to re cut the slot and that works many times.
If that does not work you can use the finest jewelers saw blade you can and cut through the hinge tube and the rod where they meet the post on the threaded end. you can then twist the front post 90 to 180 degrees and remove the key and screw . Then cut a slot on the thread post and remove the stuck threads. Of course you will have to replace the rod.
This is usual a last resort and not my favorite way to go.
Rodney Berry
Repair Dept
Muncy Winds Music Company
Boone, N.C.
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