 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Clarimeister
Date: 2009-12-14 04:34
Hello all. My question is about reed placement on the reed wizard as I have kind of screwed up some reeds pretty badly. I lost my instructions for the thing and was wondering if you all had an answer sorta. Do you place the tip tip of the reed at the silver line on the table of the carriage or do you place the butt of the reed lined up at the back with the start of the base track? Also, should the reed be wet or damp when using the reed wizard because if I do the reed wizard with a dry reed, say bye-bye reed as I get major gouges even trying to gently glide the blade across. Any hints or tips. Thanks all and I appreciate it!
Post Edited (2009-12-14 04:36)
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Author: rossbu
Date: 2009-12-14 10:02
Hi Phil Muncy does a demo, if you go onto their website or do a search on youtube, you'll find it - the tip goes just over the little silver lines and you line the reed up to the side rails. I just got one, so I'm no pro but I find that I get good results after several minutes of playing.
Burt
bross141@comcast.net
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Author: reedwizard
Date: 2009-12-14 12:33
Hello Clarimeister,
The reed should be slightly wet when you use the reed wizard. In regards to where you place the tip of the reed, that depends on how much cane you want to remove from the reed. I have not used mine in awhile but I believe you move the tip higher past the silver line to remove more cane and if you want to remove less cane then you leave the tip lower or closer to the silver line. Less is more so small adjustments work better.
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Author: kdk
Date: 2009-12-14 13:47
The newer ones are designed to work on two different areas. As a starting point, you line up the reed tip with the silver line and the reed against the outer edge to do the outer part of the vamp. Then, if the reed seems to need it (a little too stiff), you push the reed over against the inside edge and line the tip up with the end of the cutting table. You do this, of course, one each side. Reedwizard is right that moving the reed tip closer to the end of the table (or, I suppose, beyond the end in the center position) will cut a little deeper.
This is what I remember from the instructions I got with the Wizard and also from a phone conversation I had with Ben Armata when I bought it. He said it could be used with the reed either wet or dry, although it seems hard for me to understand how you'd know what you want to do without first testing (and necessarily wetting) the reed.
His other recommendation, which hasn't so much to do with Reed Wizard as with general reed responsiveness, was that the reeds should be soaked for a relatively long time in a little bit of water with the reed butt down in the water (I think he recommended about a quarter or a half inch of water - not enough to reach the vamp) and the tips up in the air. I tried this a couple of times and found the reed vamps still completely dry after an hour, so I gave up on it. Without wanting to hijack this away from the Reed Wizard itself, I'd be interested to know if anyone else uses or is familiar with this way of wetting reeds and what I missed in Ben's instructions.
Karl
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2009-12-14 14:06
kdk, I do the opposite from what Ben recommends. I never allow the butt portion of the reed to get wet, ever. I explain it on my reed page in my website if you're interested, I hate to post pages of material on this post. Easier for someone to read it on my site. I'm a big fan of the Wizard for making adjustments to a reed that is already balanced at the tip. Although I just use it now and then I thinks it great because it balances the reed where it's almost impossible to determine where it's needed. I always begin with the reed tip on the line and the reed pressed against the side. It's always better to do it slightly damp with the tip flattened so there are no "waves". It's important that the entire reed sits flat. ESP http://eddiesclarinet.com
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