 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: GBK
Date: 2009-07-19 18:54
The clarinet which I use in daily practice (Couesnon A clarinet) needed to have the flat spring on the throat A key replaced. It finally rusted and fell off after MANY years. (it was probably the original spring)
Luckily I have a good selection of repair parts (springs, screws, pads, etc...) and tools, and I am fairly handy in making small emergency repairs.
However, getting the VERY SMALL set screw into the VERY SMALL hole in the flat spring and then into the VERY SMALL hole in the A key is (seemingly) a job that needs 3 hands.
I finally got the new spring in place and it works perfectly, but it took some time.
Am I missing a "trick" that makes this repair easier and quicker? Would some of the repair people care to share how they do this procedure more effortlessly?
...GBK
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2009-07-19 19:00
Hold the spring with one hand. Insert screw. Apply screwdriver tip to screw head and keep holding the screwdriver with the other hand. Thusly engaged, approach the key (secured on the bench somehow) and and lower the aforementioned contraption of hands, springs, drivers and screws towards the key and its screw hole; then first turn the screwdriver half a turn backwards until you hear the screw threads click and engage, then screw forward till the spring is set.
It works better on Tuesdays than on Weekends.
--
Ben
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-07-19 19:22
As oboes and cors have loads of flat springs on some pretty awkwardly shaped keys (awkward in that they won't stay still when turned over), the best thing is to stick any key with a flat spring screwed to it (especially clarinet trill/side keys) onto a blob of Blu-Tack so it won't rock or wobble around, so you still have two hands to work with.
And as has already been mentioned, put the screw in the spring hole first as this will allow you to locate the screw into the hole and the screwdriver onto the screw head.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2009-07-19 19:23)
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Author: Grabnerwg
Date: 2009-07-19 19:30
GBK - don't feel back. This is not an easy thing even for us who do it all the time!
Walter Grabner
www.clarinetxpress.com
World class mouthpieces
New and used Buffet Clarinets
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-07-19 19:34
It can be both a bonus and indeed a pain if the screwdriver tip is magnetic in this instance, but when you've got control of what you're working on you'll be sorted.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: GBK
Date: 2009-07-19 19:38
Chris - I like the Blu-Tack suggestion for holding the key and yes...my screwdriver head is magnetic, which might have also made it more difficult.
...GBK
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2009-07-19 20:24
I put the screw inside the spring. I hold this with one hand and hold a screwdriver in the other hand. While holding the screwdriver tip at a mostly up direction (some angle), I put it in the screw slot. I then hold this entire thing with one hand. The screw and/or spring don't fall because I use a screwdrvier that fits exactly and also the angle I hold it (with the "tail" of the spring down and the screw slot parallel to the floor). Then I take the key with my other hand and put the screw to its hole on the key and screw it.
If I see there's no way I can balance it like this (which only happens rarely), I would use something like tictactux's method. But this way it is more likely to slip than get right into the screw slot, because the key is not secure.
For woodwind repair I definitely don't like magnetic screwdrivers. For this, they are probably especially bad. Instead of going into the slot they would "suck" a screw and it will get into some random position on the screwdriver.
Post Edited (2009-07-20 03:33)
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2009-07-19 20:30
> magnetic screwdrivers
ugh. Ugh. uGh. ugH. (and all other permutations thereof). Hate magnetic screwdrivers thoroughly. They're evil, unless maybe you lost your precious screw in a toilet bowl.
I'd rather smear the screwdriver tip with MoS2 grease to stick a stubborn screw to it than using a magnetic tip. Yuck. Blech.
--
Ben
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2009-07-19 21:19
With tiny parts (and my aging vision) I find it helps to do such work under a desk lamp that has a magnifying lens. And avoid drinking coffee before doing the job, as caffeine can make the hand twitchy......
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-07-19 22:43
Put a bit of grease on the screw to hold it inserted in the spring hole.
Bob Draznik
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Author: D Dow
Date: 2009-07-20 14:32
...there is a great art not just simply replacing a spring..but also using a spring with a thickness that matches the older one. Some repair people think oiling the springs once in a while help them last longer...
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2009-07-20 15:12
>> ...there is a great art not just simply replacing a spring..but
>> also using a spring with a thickness that matches the older one.
Unless the older one, wheterh put there by the factory or later by a repairer, doesn't have the best thickness. Then it is better to put the best size/thickness spring as opposed to assume the older one is best.
>> Some repair people think oiling the springs
>> once in a while help them last longer...
Oil on steel helps against rust so also for springs. Some springs are made of stainless steel and are much more resistant against rusting (almost never rust). Quality of the alloy of both steel and stainless steel springs can vary a lot. I always like to grease at least the part of the spring contacting the body (or better, a thin metal piece that is on the body).
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Author: D Dow
Date: 2009-07-21 00:38
The real key is for the adjustment of the replacement to be ideal for the player and instrument. Some players make the sad mistake of using too heavy a spring or adjustment and this can really slow down the works. Alot of players like a really light set up(myself) where others like a heavier set up.
Is their a specific grease you use for the springs and needle springs...?
David Dow
Post Edited (2009-07-21 00:40)
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2009-07-21 04:18
I use grease for the flat springs. Any good grease should be ok. I use Type 1 Grease from Doctor's Products because I order stuff from him anyway and I couldn't find a grease locally that I like in small enough quantity. For the needle springs I would use either nothing or thick oil. Sometimes the thickest type from Ultimax (which by the way make a grease I really don't like) or an even thicker type sold by Kraus Music.
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Author: Lelia Loban ★2017
Date: 2009-07-21 11:21
GBK, I don't think there are any special tricks. Replacing the flat spring under the throat A is always a hassle. I use an adjustable bench lamp, on a jointed swing arm that can move up and down or sideways, with the fluorescent light under an opaque ring around a big magnifying glass, so that the light shines down on the work but not into my eyes. Hardware stores sell these lamps. They can be screwed down to the work bench or planted temporarily with a clamp on the edge of the bench.
But even with good light and a magnifier, it's tricky to get just the right length of spring and then you have to contend with that itty-bitty screw. I hate magnetic screwdrivers and don't use them, but I do have and use a screw-board with marked holes for all the screws, so they don't get lost or mixed up with each other (Ferree's sells screw boards), and I also keep a magnet on a stick for locating microscopic screws on the concrete floor of the workroom. Screws go AWOL all the time no matter how careful I am. They want to jump on the floor and hide. (My favorites are the set-screws on old Conn saxophones. They're the color of the darkest marks on the old concrete and they're about the size of flyspecks.)
Lelia
http://www.scoreexchange.com/profiles/Lelia_Loban
To hear the audio, click on the "Scorch Plug-In" box above the score.
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2009-07-21 20:07
re: clarnibass's post above I would suggest always oiling needle springs. A thin surface coat helps prevent rust and breakage, but most importantly is the connection between the spring tip and the latch. As the key operates there is a microscopic amount of movement here which can cause "fretting corrosion" ( I regularly see this on instruments brought in for repair) but most suprising is how much "snappier" the key action usually feels when oiled here.
I use a thick oil, not critical but e.g. SAE 30 automobile engine oil works fine.
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Author: GBK
Date: 2009-07-21 21:49
David Spiegelthal wrote:
> It will take GBK far less time to replace the spring than to
> read all these posts.
You're right ![[wink]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/smilie3.gif)
I'm happy to report that the new spring is functioning fine, with seemingly perfect tension.
Beginner's luck, I'm sure.
...GBK
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