 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: stebinus2
Date: 2009-07-15 05:55
On a plastic clarinet...do I need to get the thing out and if so is there some way without the $50+ tool? Or can I just put a tiny seal of super glue around it using a pin for an applicator?
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2009-07-15 07:31
There are ways to take it out with vice grips, but it will leave scratches. Sometimes this is the only way to get the tube out.
If you just want to seal it without removing it then the superglue is fine.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-07-15 11:02
But maybe it will depend on which "plastic" it is. What if it's hard rubber? I'd test the superglue somewhere else on the clarinet first.....assuming all the parts are made from the same "plastic". OR, try some "Bluetack" first since it can be removed. Removal might cause more serious leaks.
Bob Draznik
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Author: lrooff
Date: 2009-07-15 17:53
Superglue should work fine on an Artley. If you want to make sure that's the problem, try using a little modeling clay around the edge first.
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Author: saxlite
Date: 2009-07-15 23:24
Model airplane cement should work just fine. Use a toothpick and avoid getting it elsewhere- putting some masking tape around the area is a good idea.lrooff wrote:
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-16 13:57
Superglue shrinks a lot as it dries, so it is a poor filler. If you use that, then I suggest you keep adding it until there is a thin shiny bead around where you are applying it. A thread sealant may actually work better as a filler if you have it around, say Loctite 222.
"There are ways to take it out with vice grips, but it will leave scratches. Sometimes this is the only way to get the tube out."
NO!!!!
Various flat/convex (or concave/convex) ring-bending (or "forming") pliers do an excellent job of gripping with no damage at all.
Eg:
https://store.metalliferous.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PLR740%2E00
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/product.php?productid=6653&cat=1162&page=1
http://www.contenti.com/products/_enlarge.html?itemno=360-833&itemname=Concave/+Convex++Forming+Pliers§ion=pliers
Post Edited (2009-07-16 14:06)
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2009-07-16 14:08
""There are ways to take it out with vice grips, but it will leave scratches. Sometimes this is the only way to get the tube out."
NO!!!!"
There are ways to use vice grips that do not use maximum force. It won't crush the tube if one knows how to use the tool.
And, like I said, this is "sometimes the only way"- meaning, if you try every other cosmetically safe way and it still won't move you can get it out with a few slight scratches or you can just leave it in there. When I had to use this method (once), I was replacing the tube.
In general, I use the Ferree's tool.
Post Edited (2009-07-16 14:13)
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Author: scott kurtzweil
Date: 2009-07-16 15:27
If it's a small leak, I would use melted, CLEAN parafin wax applied to the outer edge of the tube. You can get it at any supermarket that carries canning supplies, its cheap and it won't harm the body of the clarinet.
Scott Kurtzweil
Kurtzweil Musical LLC
www.kurtzweilmusical.com
269-340-9013
scott@kurtzweilmusical.com
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2009-07-16 21:51
stebinus2 wrote:
> You would use parafin wax on a plastic horn?
Shouldn't be a problem. Plastic doesn't melt at 60-odd degrees Celsius.
--
Ben
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-07-16 22:08
Paraffin's a great idea. You don't really want to adhesive it in permanently.
Bob Draznik
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-17 04:44
Beeswax is a possibly better alternative to paraffin. It is more flexible, to accomodate differential expansion.
But unless these waxes are pretty hot, and pressed into a gap pretty fast, with the tube possibly also heated, then I don't think much of their chances of 'wicking' into small gaps.
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Author: jparrette
Date: 2009-07-18 22:28
I second the paraffin solution. It's also very easy to clean up if you make a mess with it. You'll want to heat the thumb tube to get the wax to run into the gap.
If you use superglue or model airplane glue, it's going to make bigger problems if you ever have to take the thumb tube out in the future.
John Parrette
CLARION MUSICAL SERVICES
john@clarionmusical.com
914-805-3388
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-18 22:39
Heating the thumb rest in plastic is somewhat risky in itself.
So considering all, Loctite 222 may be the best option without taking the tone hole out.
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Author: stebinus2
Date: 2009-07-19 07:24
What if you remove all the keys, plug all the holes with rubber stoppers, hold the joint horizotal and then have someone dribble hot wax around the insert while you suck on the upper end? Would this pull the wax into the leak?
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-07-19 12:14
What do the Digereedo guys use for mouthpieces!
Bob Draznik
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-07-19 17:18
Sorry,Barry, they use their mouths to form a seal and to direct the wind but the mouthpieces are made from some pliable material.
Bob Draznik
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2009-07-19 17:26
Okay, I sure get flamed over this - I'd just apply PVA glue round the register tube and let the clarinet sit for a day. If something goes pear-shaped, I can remove the glue with a clothespin and - if stubborn - a hair dryer. Sure, takes a day to set, but it usually works with non-permeable surfaces as well.
Experience rule #1: Opt for reversible measures first, if they exist.
(disclaimer: parent here (think broken toys), and tinkerer. Worked with PVA for the last 30 years, believes he knows when and when not. If there was one, I'd have a glue diploma stapled (sic!) to the wall)
--
Ben
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2009-07-20 00:59
"...mouthpieces are made from some pliable material."
The place where one puts there mouth to play has a large amount of wax on the edge. Since the didgeridoo is just a wooden pipe, I think this wax is mostly, just to be more comfortable so you are not playing against a sharp wooden edge.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2009-07-20 03:47
Some people use wax over the opening of the didgeridoo, probably for the reason skygardener mentioned. I had wax when I used a plastic pipe didg. But for the didg I have now I don't use wax because the "mouthpiece" already has a smooth edge. It is an extra piece of wood shaped for the mouthpiece glued to the rest of the instrument.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-20 11:40
Is that also just to give the lips a smaller diameter tube to work against?
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-20 11:42
I reckon the Loctite 222 and the PVA are not too different.
The former sets faster and probably seeps deeper into the crack. But you don't want to leave on any surplus because it is a silly colour.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2009-07-20 14:53
>> Is that also just to give the lips a smaller diameter tube to work against? <<
Probably. My "mouthpiece" (i.e. extra piece of wood glued) has about 2cm of much narrower bore, then a sharp taper to approx same diameter as top of the bore which is much bigger.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-20 17:30
The internet seems alive with info on this. I guess it makes them eaier to play, especially if one does not have huge lips.:
http://www.google.co.nz/search?hl=en&ei=AKlkSs_CC4LesgOBo_1m&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=didgeridoo+mouthpiece&spell=1
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Author: stebinus2
Date: 2009-07-21 16:35
What are some brand names of PVA glue? Like Tightbond Wood glue or Elmers Glue-all?
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