 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Clari
Date: 2009-06-10 13:33
Hi,
I know there are many competent repair techs out there and I am mostly a DIYer if the job is not that complicated. I recently acquire a used clarinet which some of the keys' surface are damaged. It is not just scratch but more like dent/tool marks caused by the metal plier or tools. Before addressing the replating process, what is the right type of filler I can use to fill the dent before replating the keys? As far as I can tell, the keys are nickel plated. Are there fillers that will look and feel like nickel without replating? I tried google search and search the archive but cannot find any discussions on filler for this purpose. By the way, are those brush on nickel plating kit out there really work as they claim?
thanks
Clari
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2009-06-10 14:04
Rather than trying to fill the damaged areas, I'd suggest filing/grinding/sanding/polishing the surface smooth. More material will be removed, of course, but the end result will be better and will be permanent. Generally clarinet keys are nickel alloy underneath the nickel plating, and don't need to be replated over the repair, just wiped down occasionally after use (which you should be doing anyway).
If you want to get into "home plating", check out this website for equipment and materials: http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html
The usual disclaimer: I am not affiliated with Caswell in any way.
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2009-06-10 14:40
On the other hand....you could also fill the damaged areas with silver solder, then file/sand/polish smooth. Use a good instrument-grade solder and matching flux, with a propane torch (for the low-temperature silver solder) or MAPP gas torch if you use high-temperature silver solder (not necessary in this application because it isn't a structural repair so high strength is not required). If you do this, keep in mind that filing or grinding solder will gum up and possibly ruin your files or grinding wheel. You can nickel-plate over the solder afterwards, or not, at your discretion.
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Author: Clari
Date: 2009-06-10 15:40
David,
Thanks for the information. It does look like a lot of work to get it right. Silver solder would be quite tricky for the first timer. I notice there are some metal/silver spray kit which can make non-metal surface platable. I want to see if I could use any filler such as epoxy and spray the stuff over thinly and plate the key on top of it.
thanks
Clari
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2009-06-10 17:59
I'd hesitate to try to plate over any sort of plastic or resin (e.g. epoxy), even with an intermediate coating. Keep in mind that epoxy offgasses (gives off vapor) and continues to shrink for a long time after it 'cures' (technically it continues to offgas and shrink forever, at an exponentially-decreasing rate -- please correct me if I'm wrong, Dr. Omar!).
Think about chrome-plated plastic items, such as toys, appliances and automobile trim parts -- the plating ALWAYS ends up peeling or flaking off.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-06-10 21:38
This is an instance where unplated or solid silver keys are a bonus as scratches can be filed, papered, polished and burnished out without affecting the finish (unless the decades old patina has been removed in the repaired area).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2009-06-11 15:39
>> Maybe MC Hammer did the damage! <<
I don't think so because he can't touch this......
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-06-15 07:37
If you fill it with a material softer than the key metal, then any polishing is likely to leave a conspicuous line around where the materials meet, because the polishing will remove more of the soft metal than the harder metal.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-06-26 22:16
Looks pretty good, and you can add more nickel to the areas where most wear is likely to happen, or replate it as it wears through.
What kind of plating equipment are you using for this?
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: 78s2CD
Date: 2009-06-26 22:21
Sorry! Didn't realize I couldn't add more text after attaching pics. Anyway, the previous post's attachment is the before and after of my latest repair on my Leblanc 400 bass. I'm using two products, 1) Silversmith from Caswell (the company David mentioned) and 2 Silverbrite from Metalbrite. Silversmith will plate over the nickel alloy. Silverbrite will not, but once the piece is plated will add more silver and buff to a nice shine. I find I get the best results if I can remove all of the old plating in the area to be re-plated. To facilitate this I got an electric detail sander. I use the machine with 150 grit sandpaper, smooth with 400 and finish off with 600 grit.
Best regards,
Jim Lockwood
Rio Rico AZ
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Author: 78s2CD
Date: 2009-06-26 22:36
Chris P,
The products I'm using are mentioned in my second post above. They are both of the wipe-on variety. Silversmith is a liquid suspension that will plate over nickel. Silverbrite is more of a creamy polish that will add silver to existing silver plate, but won't plate over the base nickel.
So far I live with any existing depressions caused by wear and just go for as smooth a surface as possible. How would I go about adding nickel to the worn spots?
Best regards,
Jim Lockwood
Rio Rico AZ
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