 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Cindyr
Date: 2009-05-01 00:40
Hi: I'm not able to get the lower register on the upper half of my Bundy 2 Alto Sax. It seems to be stuck in the middle register. Where should I look for a problem? Is it in the neck? The little metal rod in the neck might be bent a little.
Clarinet players that also play sax, I need your ideas, thanks!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2009-05-01 00:48
Strange because usually on saxophone if the upper octave key (on the neck) is leaking or not covering you won't be able to play anything in the lower octave. There is a double octave mechanism on the saxophone with one being on the body just above where you place your left thumb. The lower should vent on all notes G#/Ab and below while the upper (neck) vents for all notes above that. Check to see that each vent is functioning properly. This condition is hard to diagnose without having the instrument in hand.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: clarnibass
Date: 2009-05-01 04:54
>> Strange because usually on saxophone if the upper octave key
>> (on the neck) is leaking or not covering you won't be able to play
>> anything in the lower octave.
Yes, but it's possible that the neck octave key is completely closed when not pressing the octave lever, but will open when it shouldn't when playing the lower notes of the second octave. This can happen, for example when the octave lever moves beyond the G key blocking the lower octave key, and could explain the problem (although it might be better to say exactly the notes that are problematic since "the lower register on the upper half" isn't very specific).
Check a few things:
1 - When you don't press the octave key, both body and neck octave key pads are completely closed.
2 - When pressing the octave key for notes D to G# in the second register, the body octave key pad is open and the neck octave key pad is completely closed.
3 - When pressing the octave key for notes A and above in the second register, the neck octave key is open and the body octave key is completley closed.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Don Berger
Date: 2009-05-01 13:17
Hi Cindy, You have 3 expert analyses above as to what likely is your problem, so I wont repeat. I have seen a number of non [strangely] playing saxes where that stragetically [small] piece of corking which closes the "articulated G#" pad is damaged-dislodged-missing. You might want to look at it as well. Just a thot, Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: William
Date: 2009-05-01 14:40
Also, check the felt under the lh second finger pad. If it has become compressed or is missing, that could cause problems. However, your "symptoms" seem to suggest Don's remedy as likely. It's the jumper link to the pad above the rh first finger pad. Try pushing that pad down and see if the lower register notes work better.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Cindyr
Date: 2009-05-05 20:49
Thanks to all. It was the neck octave key staying open when it shouldn't. I adjusted the octave lever a bit, and the sax is back to playing o.k. You all are the best!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-05-05 23:25
When the sax is assembled, make sure there's a small gap between the shift lever at the top of the socket (the bar with a piece of plastic tubing on it) and the crook key when the 8ve key is at rest (as you'd have between a clarinet's throat A and G# keys), but this gap should be around 0.5-1mm depending on how much the shift lever moves when you fully press the 8ve key. You adjust this gap by bending the lower (loop) part of the crook key until you're happy with the clearance between the inner part of the loop and the shift lever.
The shift lever shouldn't lift up to apply any pressure on the crook key at all when the 8ve key is pressed while LH3 is closed (but it may move sideways slightly on Bundys and others with a similarly designed 8ve mechanism).
If it does lift up to force the crook key open, either bending the 8ve key touch in towards the body, building up the existing stopper cork (by sticking on a small piece of cork of the correct thickness) or replacing the entire cork on the underside of the 8ve key touch with a thicker cork (and trimming it to the required thickness) will put this right.
The shift lever has to make contact with the crook key (but not to open it) in order for the lower 8ve vent to open while holding LH3 closed, but it shouldn't lift the crook key at all until LH3 is released, and only then should the pressure be great enough to open the crook key (the LH3 spring should be strong enough to do this).
Another cause for the crook key to open too early is if there's not enough venting (opening) on LH3 as this will transfer pressure from the linkage from LH3 to the lower 8ve vent which will in turn actuate the shift lever opening the crook key.
And a combination of too much travel in the 8ve key touch (if the key has been bent outwards or the key cork has compressed or fallen off) and not enough venting of LH3 (which can be caused if the LH3 touch has been bent upwards, or the key cork/felt at the top end of the linkage from LH3 is too thick, or if the LH3 pad has been replaced with one that's too thick) will also cause the crook key to open along with the lower 8ve vent.
It's worthwhile examining the 8ve mechanism on saxes in detail and learning to diagnose problems, and also to learn to put them right.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2009-05-05 23:37)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
