 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: tb0b
Date: 2000-11-01 20:06
Do you know of a good, inexpensive clarinet stand that won't scratch my R-13?
what's better? wood? metal? which ones cost more?????
oh yeah....
what kinda swabs do you guys use? Will cotton swabs deposit lint in my tone holes?
have any of you used the gem silk swabs from WW&BW? ARe those good?
burp...
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Author: William
Date: 2000-11-01 20:20
Stands--Herb Blayman. Swabs--Silk by Jewel or Gem. Dog--Choc. Lab. Anything else?????
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Author: Meri
Date: 2000-11-01 20:26
My clarinet stand is one with an iron base with a screw-in wood peg, which I only paid $20 CDN for. What matters, however, is that the clarinet stand is sturdy and resistant to tipping. (the pack-a-stands require very little force to tip it over; the type that I am using requires quite a lot of force to tip the instrument. The ones with wood bases are relatively expensive, but are less resistant to tipping than the iron base with a screw-in peg. And the type with the screw-in peg are more portable than the wood base ones. Considering the fact that they are not all that portable and the fact that they are not as resistent to tipping as those with the iron base, they could be considered very expensive. Hence, go for the one with the iron base.
I think my current swab is a good cotton/silk swab. Cotton swabs will not deposit lint in the tone holes provided that you sew the edges of the swab if you decide to make your own. Pino's book has instructions on making one. But the cotton ones are far better for moisture asorbption than the silk ones; however, the silk ones have the advantage that they pull through easily. My current one seems to be the best of both worlds.
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Author: Francesca
Date: 2000-11-01 20:53
I bought a silk swab for my bass clarinet and hated it. For me, it barely took any of the moisture out, which is really bad for wood instruments. Now I use it for my soprano clarinet only because it's made of plastic and I just need to clean the mouthpiece. From what I've been told, more absorbant material is cloth is better to get the moisture out and prevent cracking and warping.
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Author: Don Austin
Date: 2000-11-01 22:06
I made two clarinet stands. The cone type part was turned on my lathe and that was nailed to a base. Cost: the wood was scraps and the nails repossessed from the floor. One went to a friend.
Cheers, Don
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Author: Ai Li
Date: 2000-11-02 00:27
I bought a K&M clarinet stand that folds up neatly for storage. Pity it doesn't fit in the bell or case. It's sturdy and does not scratch the bore. The stand is made of rubber, I believe. It's available cheap in Singapore - I paid about USD10 for it?? Simple case of cheap and good.
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Author: Pam
Date: 2000-11-02 02:23
I'm going to do like Don A. and turn a stand on the lathe. Who says girls can't be woodworkers? :-)
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Author: HTW
Date: 2000-11-02 03:14
The K&M stands are really good, it would take a hurricane to tip one of those. Make sure you glue the rubber feet on good though, they tend to fall off. I have to disagree with Francesca and Meri on the subject of silk swabs...I find them to be better than cotton ones in every way. In my experience, they're very absorbant (more so than the cotton ones), and they never get stuck, One of the reasons the silk swabs absorb even better than the cotton ones is that because the silk swabs don't get stuck, they can cut the cloth that much bigger so it fills up the clarinet.
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Author: Susan L.
Date: 2000-11-02 04:01
I recently bought a Vito clarinet and it had a lot of extras with it. One of the items was a K&M stand. I just love it. I don't know how I got along without this. It doesn't tip. It doesn't fit into the case though, but does fit into my tackle box where I keep all my extra stuff--mouthpieces, reeds, etc. This clarinet also came with a Gem silk swab. I think it works very well, much better than the cloth ones.
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Author: Aaron
Date: 2000-11-02 06:06
I made my own stand after seeing a beatiful wooden one in a music store in Munich. It had a turned peg stand, with datoed legs that formed and X with threads that attached to a wooden screw in the base on the peg. The peg looks similar to the peg on the König& Meyer pegs on the ww&bw cat, pg 115 in the new cat. I liked it so much i bought it, and used it as a die and made many more for firends and myself out of, ebnoy, purple heart, and anyother beatiful woods I could find. I changed the curve of the peg to fit perfecty the inside bore of the bell of a buffet Bb and A, with the peg extending not too far into the bore of the insturment. Incase of tipover, it wont break the tennon. It dosen't scratch or anything. I would reccomend a wood stand if possib;e, but they are a little pricy. but the Blayman, König & Meyer and other sturdy plastic syands work just as well and provide a great stable platform.
Aaron
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Author: Lelia
Date: 2000-11-02 15:11
The stand I use all the time is the kind Meri describes above, with an iron base and a wooden screw-in clarinet peg. I love it. The peg is lightweight and won't hurt the instrument, but that base is heavy. Mine is a doubler's base with room for two clarinets and a saxophone. The iron base is a very low-to-the-floor cross shape, with a wingnut and bolt that fits through a slot, so that one of the cross bars can slide back and forth to change the balance of the stand. With no sax on the stand, I set it up so all 4 "legs" are equal. With an alto or tenor sax, I shift the balance to keep the base stable despite the asymmetrical weight of the sax.
For a swab, I like the Ann Hodges pul-through silk swabs. Her oboe pull-through silk swab will fit through a metal clarinet, BTW. I use a cotton swab only for oiling the bore twice a year.
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Author: Daniel Bouwmeester
Date: 2000-11-02 19:01
B.G. makes foldable stands which take no space....
CHEAP
relatively solid..
very small.. fits in your case
On Sneezy.org's ressources you will find B.G.'s website
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Author: Jeff G.
Date: 2000-11-02 19:46
Instead of nailing the base on. Do what I did. I turned a stand and put adhesive felt on the cone to protect the horn. For the base, I cut 2 pieces of wood and notched them to fit together flush. I put a hanger bolt(looks like a screw on one end and bolt threads on the other) in the cone end. Put a T-nut in the bottom base pieces so when assembled 1/2 of the base piece is held between the bottom piece and the cone. When screwed together it is very stable and you can take the entire thing apart by simply unscrewing the base from the top, it packs very small.
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Author: beejay
Date: 2000-11-02 20:51
Swab. Find Japanese silk handkerchief, add hollow shoelace and sew a piece of pencil into the end. It pulls through easily and although it may leave a little moisture in the clarinet, is this a bad thing? Excessive dryness surely is worse.
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Author: Allen Cole
Date: 2000-11-03 07:38
Most stands are perfectly good. I don't really care for the BG's because I think they cost too much for what they are.
I have been very happy with the Pack-A-Stand. It folds up small enough to store inside the instrument's bell, which means no case is too small to fit it. Even if you normally use other stands (I use a K&M when doubling), the Pack-A-Stand makes a perfect back-up that will always be there in your case. http://www.packastand.com
K&M's cost a bit, but are worth every cent IMHO. They are built to last and are cleverly designed. You can check their wares at http://www.gorginternational.com
Whomever mentioned the Ann Hodge silk swabs was right. They are terrific. Mine is far more absorbent than the old buffet swab. (probably because silk is thin and allows a bigger cloth with more surface area.) I love it.
Hope that helps.
Allen
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Author: Dee
Date: 2000-11-03 12:07
Allen Cole wrote:
>
> Whomever mentioned the Ann Hodge silk swabs was right. They are
> terrific. Mine is far more absorbent than the old buffet swab.
> (probably because silk is thin and allows a bigger cloth with
> more surface area.) I love it.
>
Let me start by saying each person should use what works for them but several people have voiced the same misconception regarding silk's absorbency. While the silk may be working better for you, silk is *not* more absorbent than cotton. There can be several reasons though why you may perceive it this way. A larger swab does have a bigger surface area and is thus capable of collecting more water on its surface and being drawn out. Some cotton swabs are made from a hard surfaced, "polished" type of cotton. These are terrible as they are rather stiff, get stuck easily, and the surface finish totally negates the absorption properties of cotton. I never buy these. The kind that I use (and prefer) are the very soft cotton swabs. These actually do absorb the moisture.
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