 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Bob Gardner
Date: 2000-05-25 13:22
i know that most of us use the reeds right out of the box. However if one were to go through the sanding routine what is the goal. Is it to be sure the back side if flat, is it to remove something that the factory left behind, or is it to change the fiber of the reed. It would be nice to know why one would want to go this route.
Thanks
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Author: William
Date: 2000-05-25 14:46
The objective in sanding a reed is to make sure the backside of the reed is perfectly flat. After sanding, it is recommemded that the back of the reed be burnished by rubbing it on the back surface of the sandpaper until the reed appears "glazed." This is supposed to seal the reed and make it last longer. After playing reeds "out of the box" without sanding/glazing, more many years, I started the routine, faithfully sanding and glazing every reed. Bottom line is that I noticed no difference in how my reeds performed and have since discontinued the practice. It is more important (and productive) to carefully work on the vamp (cut portion) of your reed and balance it to your personal mouthpiece. After balancing, sealing the vamp helps preserve the reeds life, which should be about ten hours of actual premiem playing time. Good luck.
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Author: Beejay
Date: 2000-05-25 15:43
I find that polishing the back of a tired reed on a sheet of typing paper often brings it back to life. I cannot explain why. I agree that the effect on new reeds, in my case at least, is too small to measure.
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Author: Frank
Date: 2000-05-25 18:07
Well, I have noticed a marked improvement in reed performance after sanding and polishing. However, I've move up one-half stength to compensate for the removal of fibers thanks to sanding. I also polish the top of the reed to close off the phloms. Sometimes, after sanding, you may notice that the reed it too "soft" now. Just use a reed clipper to take a bit off the tip.
Hope if works for you,
Frank
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Author: Kevin Bowman
Date: 2000-05-25 18:27
Being a "doubler" on larger instruments such as tenor and bari sax, I can tell you that sealing the back of the reed does have a marked effect on larger reeds - it keeps them from warping so easily. But to be totally effective, you have to do the same to the vamp too. I do the same to my smaller reeds (clarinet and Alto Sax) but the effect is not as noticeable.
In general, sanding (or the use of a knife or reed rush) is done to balance the response of a reed. Sometimes reeds come from the factory a little heavier (less flexible) on one side or another. Or perhaps your dental structure requires more resistance on one side. In any case, slight adjustments to the shape of the reed with sandpaper can make a reed more playable (or more to your liking). I have found that I _can_ play most reeds out of the box but my dental structure is such that if I take a little material off the left edge, my reeds a more responsive and last a bit longer (because of more even vibration?). I have one clarinet reed that has surpassed 30 hours of playing (a rarety, to be sure) - it's my favorite reed and I'm gonna cry when it finally gives out :(
Reed manufactures follow a "one size fits all" philosphy when it comes to shape and balance. Adjusting your reeds with sandpaper just allows you to custom tailor the reed for your "fit".
A note about reed longevity: if you rotate 4 or 5 reeds and play on each one for only 30-60 minutes, each read will last a lot longer. This is because the reed fibers will be given a change to "recover" somewhat, instead of being played to the point of death each time.
Kevin Bowman
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Author: Sara
Date: 2000-05-26 02:10
Having been recently introduced to sanding reeds last month by my teacher I was wondering if its worth the investment of a reed trimmer to supplement this when the reeds are actually too soft rather than too hard or unbalanced. And where can you get one and how much do they cost?
Sara
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Author: Bob Gardner
Date: 2000-05-26 02:32
Sara:
get an IMS catalog-1800 762 1116 they are listed in there. I suggested they become a sponser of this page. If you call them tell them about Sneeze.
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Author: Karel Vahala
Date: 2000-05-26 02:33
It is possible and easy with a little care to sand the tip of the reed by drawing it from left to right on 600 paper until the desired amount is removed. I saw a post from A.Galper about this, and it has worked well for me. I have not used a trimmer (don't have one).
Karel
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Author: Hiroshi
Date: 2000-05-26 03:42
I think several reasons exist for the warping of reeds.
1)Manufaturing defects(cutting machine error or tolerance)
2)Warping throuph storage time or bad way of storage.
3)Warping through usage including shape of mouthpiece window or rails copied on the reed backside.
To countermeasure these there are several ways.
1)Use reeds without any warp(i.e.no warp)
For example Alexander Superial reeds are diamond cut and
they boast of unnecessity of sanding.
By the way,it is ridiculous to sand every reeds when they
work well.If they work,no sanding is necessary.
2)Use a reed adjusting machine like 'Reed Wizard'
to make good shape reeds.
3)Use a good measuring device to check flatness or thickness
like 'PerfectaReed'
4)Buy adjusted reeds such as from Tom Ridenour.
5)Sanding yourself
To make sanding matter difficult,it has to be done all through break-in period(about one week or more) not just 5 minutes sanding for new reeds.It needs very much patience. I gave it up and now use Alexander Superial without sanding. I am considering also to purchase a ReedWizard. If we sand reeds,at least good measuring devices will be necessary.
By the way, too much sanding merely ruins reeds. This is my experience.
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Author: beejay
Date: 2000-05-26 08:21
I sometimes use a Cordier reed trimmer, figuring that if it fixes 20 reeds over the course of its existence, it has paid for itself. The Van Doren trimmer does the same job and is 2 1/2 times more expensive.
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Author: Sarah
Date: 2000-06-05 15:37
It is my understanding that a good reed, when you hold it up to the light, should be thinner at the
top and on the sides, thicker in the middle. The shape of the thick part should be an upside down
U. I have always tried to make my reeds have that U by using reed rush starting near the middle and
going out towards the top edges of the reed. It works great for me. I wish I could explain it better or
draw a picture.
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Author: BAC
Date: 2000-10-19 16:42
Any one have experience with and know the difference between a Cordier and Rigotti reed trimmer is?
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