 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: alisdair
Date: 2009-01-08 14:44
g'day!
i have an old buffet (e&s modele buffet s/n k648 if anyone can confirm a yr of manufacture i'd be v pleased!).
so, i am considering getting the keys re-plated, partly for cosmetics and protection and with the hope that i might boost its potential resale value at a later date.
can i ask for some tips on what to avoid and where the pitfalls are with this?
i expect i need to strip the instrument myself to minimize costs... are tehre many common mistakes when stripping and how do i avoid them?
also do i need to somehow strip the remaining plating off somehow?
how do i go about getting the plating work done? i hear a base plate of nickel with silver over top is ideal but what thickness is best?
does this have much impact on value or am i dreamin?? (not that i am keen to sell this beautiful instrument - it is in first class nick)
thanks and all the best for the new year
alisdair
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Author: William
Date: 2009-01-08 14:58
I've had many clarinets replated in silver and one in gold and after seeing what a repair tech has to go through, my recommendation is to "leave it to them". And, BTW, it replating--if done right--doesn't involve just the keys. For a uniform "good look'n" result, the posts & rings should also be done and that is where keeping everything in order can become complicated. I have no fear in completely stripping all the keys from my clarinet to clean them and the tone holes, but also removing the key posts, corks and pads--that's too much for me. A well done replateing job is certainly cosmetically worth the effort and cost if you like your clarinet. Gold plateing is really elegant, but the keys must be first silvered for the gold to adhere to the metal keys. Just my thoughs....good luck.
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Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2009-01-08 18:52
Given your serial number, your E&S could actually be pretty old -- the only other three-digit K serial number that I can recall belonged to Vytas Krass and its keywork dated it back to the 1930's (pictures of yours would be helpful in establishing its age). If it's as old as I think it may be (and the keys are in original condition) , it's very possible (likely?) that it isn't plated at all but rather solid "german (or nickle) silver."
Best regards,
jnk
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-01-08 20:48
Depending on your plater it's possible he won't guarantee the job if you don't let him prep the metal.
Bob Draznik
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Author: bmcgar ★2017
Date: 2009-01-08 21:17
Just be prepared to wait.
It took my tech 9 months to get the company that did the work to squeeze in this tiny job.
Your experience may be different, though.
B.
Post Edited (2009-01-09 00:14)
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Author: alisdair
Date: 2009-01-09 07:54
Thanks all!
Yes i believe it was made sometime in the 30s. I'll post some pics later this evening.
Assuming the keys are solid german silver - is it possible to polish these up to a near mirror finish?
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-01-09 09:18
"p to a near mirror finish?"
I've never been able to.
Bob Draznik
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-01-09 09:27
Don't attempt to remove the larger bell ring, it won't come off without doing damage to the wood - leave it as it is in its natural unplated nickel silver state, but do polish it.
After I rebuilt my freshly plated old Buffet Eb so it all looked like as new as I could get it to, I put it in a brand new Buffet R13 case I bought specially for it. Unfortunately something in the case has made the silver tarnish pretty bad which is a pain as the plating was done to a very high standard (by Buffet's platers - couldn't think of anyone better to do the job), but now it looks like a 1962 R13 Eb again.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2009-01-09 09:31)
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Author: jeeves
Date: 2009-01-09 12:36
Sulfur causes tarnishing, so the case, for whatever reason, probably had sulfur in it.
Jeeves
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-01-09 12:55
Could be anything with sulphur in it - the glue, the vinyl covering, the lining or the mouthpiece.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Sambo 933
Date: 2009-01-09 21:52
I also have an old buffet that I looked into getting re-plated.
To me it's not worth it....however I'm not worried about re-sale value.
I wouldn't by a clarinet like that if I could find the same one that was cheaper because it isn't silver or gold plated.
I think it's nice to have a "shiny" clarinet, but it doesn't really affect the sound of the instrument.
Strangely enough I have a Leblanc Ambiance that had never been used before I got it, and it was perfectly shiny. since they haven't been made in several years it must have been sitting in the case for at least that long.
I suppose there was no trace of sulfur in the case.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-01-09 22:32
I had this old Buffet replated as the keys were really skanky. I did all the prep work on them myself before having them sent to be plated.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2009-01-09 23:42
I've never had Anderson Silver Plate go beyond six weeks on plating jobs. Unplated keys usually get plated and and back to me (I do the prep work) in two to three weeks.
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Author: alisdair
Date: 2009-01-11 11:04
Attachment: P1030263.jpg (231k)
Attachment: P1030264.jpg (225k)
Attachment: P1030265.jpg (238k)
Attachment: P1030266.jpg (236k)
Attachment: P1030267.jpg (227k)
Here are some photos of the clarinet in question if anyone is interested and if I can figure out how to attach them.
I am thinking I should remove the keys and hand buff / polish them myself rather than send them out to plating.
I have some photos of a potential crack I will post on another topic.
Thanks again
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Author: alisdair
Date: 2009-01-11 11:11
By the way if any Buffet sleuths out there are able to suggest a date or year of manufacture I would be very interested to know.
Cheers
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Author: Ralph Katz
Date: 2009-01-11 15:15
This instrument looks to be in pretty good shape given its age. I had a Buffet replated in the late 1960's, which generates a certain point of view.
- Have you thought about just having the keywork buffed out? This would be a good alternative if the original plating is intact. There is a risk, though, of buffing through the plating if it is thin in spots.
- If there are spots where the plating has completely worn through, these need to be sanded out so that there are no "steps" created underneath the new plating. There needs to be a flat surface under the new plating to make things look good. That is, if the plating is worn thorough on part of a touch-piece, the entire plating needs to be removed for the new plating to be flat.
- Who will be doing the plating and how long will it take them to turn around your keys? Plating is not a cheap process, made more complicated by environmental regulations. The platers will not lose money, but that may mean that you may have to wait, and wait. As with Bruce above, I was without my instrument for four months while the platers waited for a full load in their plater. Have your techs used this plating shop before? What was their experience? Talking to the platers ahead of time may let you schedule things more conveniently for you.
- Have you tried new clarinets recently? Ask your friends with well-setup new instruments if you can compare. This is a cool old clarinet, in good shape, that you are attached to it, otherwise you would not have asked this question. But try to be objective. What will be the advantages of saving for a new instrument?
Good Luck!
Post Edited (2009-01-12 01:20)
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Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2009-01-11 17:33
My experience with plating:
Plating "un-plated" keys is not as expensive as one might think. The labor involved in stripping the old plating and buffing is where the majority of the costs lie if done by the plater. Unplated keys, posts, and rings can be prepped by buffing to a very high luster and degreased well. This is within the normal duties of an overhaul anyway. Plating cost can be under $100, including shipping, when sent to Anderson for plating in this state.
I've never had Anderson take more than five to six weeks turn around time for any plating work. Unplated and prepped keys usually get back to me within three weeks.
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