 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: jim lande (lande @ erols.com)
Date: 1999-03-17 05:25
I plan to buy springs to repair some soprano clarinets. i am looking in the Ferrees catalog and see two types sold
by the dozen.
1) How about some opinions on stainless steel round springs vs. blued needle springs?
2) Which sizes am I likely to need for vintage soprano
clarinets?
Note:
Stainless sizes run: .018; .020; .022; ... .064
Blued sizes run: .018; .020; .021; .022; .023; .024; .027; .029; .030; .032; .033; .034; .035; .036; .037; .039 (and more to .064)
3) Why do the sizes of the blued springs jump at irregular
intervals?
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Author: Rick2
Date: 1999-03-17 14:51
Why not just call them and ask?
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Author: jim lande (lande @ erols.com)
Date: 1999-03-18 04:10
I did that. They said 'depends' and then recommended the 100 spring assortment. Well, now I have every larger spring I am ever likely to need. I suppose I could buy a micrometer and measure the springs I have left and then get everything smaller.
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Author: Ron
Date: 1999-03-21 01:53
Hi, Jim -
I'm having the same dilemma you are about springs. I have a couple of old horns I want to fix but don't need a jarful of springs left over that I'll never use. I'm not in the repair business. I think I'll let the local shop person do the springs for me or just buy what I need from him. A little more expensive that way but then I won't have leftover useless (to me) stuff. I prefer the blued steel springs only because I've never used the stainless steel ones. I've tried Ferree's piccolo and flute wire though and found it to be OK. Not quite the snappy response some people might prefer, but satisfactory and not as expensive as steel springs. But we're only talking a few bucks. If you have enough horns to make it worthwhile, by all means buy what you want by the dozen. If you get the 350 assortment they're sorted for you in vials and a wood holder - which is pretty convenient.
In my repair shop days long ago I remember customers using everything from straight pins to cut off safety pins and naturally, lots of rubber bands. They all worked! -- for a while. I've never tried sewing needles but I don't know why they wouldn't work unless they're too brittle - maybe(?).
I don't think I'd ever need anything smaller than .026"(x40mm) or larger than .048"(60mm). It all depends on the instrument(s) you have.
This is, of course just my opinion. I hope we hear from others about this.
If you have lots of leftovers you don't need, will Ferree's give you a refund or a credit?
Best regards,
Ron
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Author: Lelia
Date: 1999-03-23 16:04
I also bought the 100 spring assortment from Ferree's and also noticed that a high percentage are sax-sized. However, I noticed that one of those needle springs in the assortment had an eye on it. Aha! It was in fact a plain old needle. I can't remember whether I found the rest of the dirty little secret somewhere in the Ferree's catalogue or somewhere else, but what you do is: buy a package of plain old sewing needles, clip off the eyes with strong wire-cutters, clip the very tip of the point to reduce chances of stabbing yourself later, put the needles in a pan that can take a lot of heat, heat them up on high heat (shaking the pan occasionally to rotate the needles on all sides) until they turn brown, then take them off the burner. They turn blue as they cool. (Don't heat then to the blue point on the burner -- that's too much.) Unfortunately, I can't vouch for the success of this method (yet). The problem is finding sewing needles that are *not* stainless steel, because stainless steel needles won't blue. I've now given up in disgust after acquiring a lifetime supply of needles, none of which say "stainless steel" on the package, all of which refuse to turn blue! !@#$%^&^&*! Now that flea market and yard sale season is about to start, I'll be on the lookout for some needles with rust on them! Jim, if I find a supply somewhere, I'll cut you in on it.
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Author: Ron
Date: 1999-03-25 05:39
Lelia -
Your reference to needle treatment sounds like it came from a repair manual. Erick Brand discusses this as a last resort when you run out of regular springs. Other manuals probably cover the subject to some extent too. And, yes - springs are made by needle companies acording to Erick. So what's the difference? Stainless ones might work if you don't try to 'temper' them. I haven't tried them so I don't know but I too will be on the lookout for rusty needles from now on! Thanks for your tip.
- Ron -
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