 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Carol Dutcher
Date: 2008-10-07 20:23
I am having my 1970 Buffet Clarinet completely renovated, refurbished, overhauled, or whatever the term may be. I realize the price will be between $400 and $450 but exactly what should I expect to have replaced and done for my money. I have never had this done before, hence the question.
Thanks,
Carol
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2008-10-07 23:13
The general term is “overhauled”. All the pads should be replaced. All the corks, both on the joints and under keys, should be replaced; all the springs should be checked for rust and adjusted or replaced. All the tone holes should be checked for minute cracks and filled in if found. The keys should be cleaned or polished but not replated, that costs extra. It should come back like a brand new clarinet and when you pick it up, except for the replating, and you need to try it out and don’t leave until the key mechanism feels just the way you like it. Make sure the tech adjusts the action to your satisfaction, not theirs. ESP
www.peabody.jhu.edu/457 Listen to a little Mozart
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Author: William
Date: 2008-10-09 15:27
Just had a 1970's Buffet R13 A completely overhauled and silver plated for a total of about $500.00 US. With even the Buffet logos repainted, it looks like it just came off the music store shelf--and it sure plays "pretty". I'm certain you'll like yours as well. But like Ed P said, don't leave the store without test playing it and making certain all the keys feel "right" for you. And don't be afraid to return later, if something doesn't feel right at home. A good repair tech person (like my Mary J at the Ward Brodt Music Mall) will not mind.
Post Edited (2008-10-09 20:47)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-10-09 15:59
Hi Carol,
You should expect it to be as good (if not better) than it was when it was new. A full overhaul/rebuild means stripping it right down and replace everything that is perishable (that's all the pads, key corks, tenon corks and faulty springs), plus work on toneholes, bore treatment and refitting screws that may be loose or tight. All the silver plated parts should be polished up to a brignt shine as well as the joints (if possible), so it should all look, feel and play like a brand new instrument.
Don't expect anything less - you want to be pleasantly surprised when the case is opened and you're met with a shiny, new-looking instrument, and it should play like a dream from the very first note you play.
While you're there to collect it, play test the lower register at all volume levels, especially the troublesome notes - middle C, C# and E as these will sound stuffy at louder volumes if the venting is not adequate, as well as playing low E/upper B with just the LH E/B key using light finger pressure to be sure the crow's foot regulation is correct (and the large pads are seating properly).
Check that you can feel a tiny amount of play between the throat A and G# keys by opening the throat A key slowly - there should be some, but neither excessive or none at all.
Anything you're not initially happy with should be sorted out while you're there, and not afterwards - though the work should be covered by a guarantee provided you don't do any adjustments yourself, or have anyone else do anything that could void the guarantee.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: A Brady
Date: 2008-10-10 01:50
Not to muddy the waters here, but as the owner of a beautifully restored 1967 R-13, I encourage you to check out this thread:
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/read.html?f=1&i=256861&t=255462
Also try a search for "blow out." It is a serious, if somewhat controversial, factor in the restoration of a 40-year-old instrument.
Alan Brady
AB
Post Edited (2008-10-10 01:52)
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