 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: bill28099
Date: 2008-08-14 16:50
I would like to know from the techs out there how you go about cutting screw slots in hinge screws. I never have good luck getting them centered either using a jewelers saw or a 1/64 thickness dremel cutting tool mounted on a small milling machine. Maybe it's just my old tired eyes.
A great teacher gives you answers to questions
you don't even know you should ask.
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Author: bill28099
Date: 2008-08-15 02:45
Interesting machine, now I know how to build a jig to do the job. However, I find it interesting that they are using a .5 mm thickness saw blade. The slots that I've made have been with a 1/64 (.4mm) Dremel cutoff wheel and I find they are too wide.
A great teacher gives you answers to questions
you don't even know you should ask.
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2008-08-15 03:29
I use a jeweler's saw.
Hold the screw between your thumb and index finger. Place it deep enough so you have some finger left over. Place the blade against the head and pinch it. Start cutting. It seems dangerous but I have never cut myself- just go slow.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2008-08-15 07:37
I also use a saw. I think it's a jeweller's saw but we don't call it that in my language. Maybe Chris has especially thin ones, but the thinnest one I could find was still slightly too thick and I made it thinner. To cut the slot in the middle I use a small wood "tool" that my dad made once. It is a small "box" with a hole in the middle, cut in half, and the saw goes through a small gap. It is pretty similar to this http://www.votawtool.com/zcom.asp?pg=products&specific=jndrpmhno
Post Edited (2008-08-15 07:39)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-08-15 09:48
One thing you can do to help you centre the saw if cutting slots freehand is when you file a dome on the top of the screw head, leave a flat area in the middle (around 1mm in diameter) and you can locate the saw blade on this.
Use your thumbnail (on your free hand) as a guide for the saw blade to prevent it slipping off the head and cut the slot to the depth you require. A guitar fret file could also be used to do this, and has less likelyhood of going into the head at an angle once the initial slot has been cut.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2008-08-15 10:35
Ferree's also has a tool that works with a drill/bench motor. Safe design and good concept but the blade is 1mm thick. Thinner blades can be ordered. I find centering is nearly impossible, but it gets the job done.
I don't use it often.
The pinching I described allows quite good centering.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2008-08-15 12:06
Bill.....the Dremel blade may not be running true....i.e. "wobbling" and that will cause a cut wider than the blade. Could be the collett or the blade disc not a true 90 deg to the shaft.
Bob Draznik
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Author: stevesklar
Date: 2008-08-16 18:44
I have the Ferrees tool and it works really well for me
I also have a centering device from Votaw tools which allows you to center the jewelers blade to the rod
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Author: Synonymous Botch
Date: 2008-08-16 19:49
The speed of most rotary tools will lead the cutting edge to "follow" a path that has the least resistance to the teeth or burr.
I like to cut the hinge rod over long, then set a slot and then cut to length.
I find the saw blade easier to cut true when it's buried in the stock.
Or you could get one of those $500 production gizmos...
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-08-16 21:23
With the GB£ weakening against the US$, they may be more affordable in the not too distant future!
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2008-08-17 11:37
I use a Junior Hacksaw - http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/30695.jpg
However I have one dedicated for slotting, and keep in it a blade from which I have ground off the 'waviness' at the sides of the teeth. This reduces it to a cutting width from about 0.6 mm to 0.4 mm.
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