 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Bill
Date: 2000-08-28 15:02
I ought to know the answer to this question, but I don't: What makes keys too stiff? I'm referring specifically to the "brilles," the group of ring keys on top and bottom joint. How is this touch weight adjusted (made easier or harder)? I've been playing for about 10 years now, but it's all still a mystery to me what goes on inside those needle springs.
--Embarrassed in D.C.
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Author: Dee
Date: 2000-08-28 15:41
The stiffness is simply controlled by the amount of bend that the technician puts in the needle spring. A lot of bend = stiff key. A small bend = soft key. So nothing is really happening "inside" the springs.
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Author: Bill
Date: 2000-08-28 15:54
How, specifially, is this adjustment made? With the flat springs, it's easier to see how the spring would be set.
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Author: Dee
Date: 2000-08-28 16:47
The needle springs are bent so that they have a curve in them rather than being straight. The direction of the curve is such that it pushes the key in the required direction when you remove your finger. If there is too much curve, then the action is too stiff.
The springs are fixed at one end in the posts. The other end fits in a little catch or hook on the key or rod.
This is probably the best I can do to explain it without pictures.
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Author: Lelia
Date: 2000-08-29 01:17
Careful about bending springs around. If I have to bend a spring, I cautiously bend it *less* than I think it needs, and gradually nudge it along a little more until it feels right, to make sure I never have to bend it *back* the other way. Bending the spring back and forth in opposite directions can introduce metal fatigue that can cause the spring to break. If the key action really feels sluggish, take a good look to make sure the springs and screws aren't rusty, or clogged up with crud. Frequently oiling the screws and keeping condensation and spit off screws and springs helps keep the key action smooth.
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Author: Hiroshi
Date: 2000-08-29 03:00
I'd rather ask repairman to adjust springs tension.
It needs balancing. If one spring tention is changed, you care other springs tension. In my case in childhood,it became chatic situation and run to repair shop.
By the way, I do not recommend frequent oiling to screws.
This introduces small particles in the air into the key shaft and accumulates there to have bad movement of key eventually. This, I experienced on my flute. The repairman said 'Do not oil yourself.If it becomes necessary come to me.'
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 2000-08-29 11:46
Hiroshi wrote:
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The repairman said 'Do not oil yourself.If it becomes necessary come to me.'
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Uh huh. Wish I was <b>your</b> repairman - I'd be able to afford to send my kids to college.
Oiling the keyworks is one of the few things that just about anyone can do. Just remember that less is more. I use a toothpick to put tiny drops exactly where I want them.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2000-08-29 21:05
We have talked about this before, C H, I use key oil with a few drops of motor oil [or trans fluid, if a more detergent oil may be needed] in the bottle so as to provide longer lube retention. I'm sure this is heresy to some cl'ists!! but it works for me. Don
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Author: Willie
Date: 2000-08-30 04:24
I've started using full synthetic oil (trnsmission or 20W motor) as its not affected that much by colder temperatures. It will maintain its viscosity to well below freezing.
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Author: ron b.
Date: 2000-08-30 07:19
To paraphrase, Bill, if I may; I think your question, specifically, is:
How do I adjust the 'brilles' keys?
In my meager experience I've learned that the brilles are especially prone, next only to the B,E key rod, to getting bent. This may be so slight that you won't be able to readily see the bend (because the rod's shorter and all those rings are stuck on it). This will cause them to bind accordingly, making the action seem stiff.
The remedy is:
1. Straighten the hinge rod (most preferable).
2. Back off the pivot screws a tiny bit (less preferable quick fix).
3. Increase the spring tension (least preferable - You haven't gained anything. The spring tension will force the brilles to open and you force them to close).
ron b.
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Author: Lelia
Date: 2000-08-31 00:21
C. Hogue wrote:
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So what kind of oil does one use?
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If the clarinet is in good condition to begin with, I just use key oil from the music store for regular maintenance twice a year. I blot any excess oil with a scrap of paper towel and haven't had any trouble with the oil attracting a crud buildup. My regular maintenance routine involves wiping a dry flannel cloth over the instruments and the keys at least once a week, the same day I wash mouthpieces. (I don't really scrub or polish with the rag, just dust off.) The rag picks up anything that might have been starting to settle on the oily screw heads.
If I buy a used clarinet that's in need of overhauling, I take all the keys off it (sometimes I have to soak penetrating oil into the joints to unfreeze the screws) and oil both the screws with a scrap of oily paper towel and the holes with an oily pipecleaner. This is a cleaning process, too, so I start out with penetrating oil and repeat it until the paper and the pipecleaner come out clean instead of black. Then I use dry paper towel and dry pipecleaners to clean up the penetrating oil, and then finish up with a light oiling with key oil. I don't pay much attention to what brand of key oil I buy. What I've got right now is Selmer, but I've used Leblanc, too, and probably others. They all worked fine.
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