 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: conrad
Date: 2007-09-27 09:46
When playing B natural above the break I have been in the habit of using the left side key "1" or the right side key "1a". I sometimes also use the C keys, "3a" and "3", respectively.
When I use only the first combination I find that the pad third from the bottom doesn't close properly and I get no sound. I need to use one of the keys for C in addition to B for the clarinet to speak.
Should I always use the two finger combination, or is my insrtument in need of adjustment. It was fully serviced in November 2005
Conrad
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2007-09-27 10:11
2 years is too long to go without repair. the B should be able to speak without using the C key.
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Author: conrad
Date: 2007-09-27 10:29
Thanks. I suspected it needed fixing. I have now arranged it, but the person who did it last time won't be available till the week after next. I can compenate for it in the meantime, but may have difficulty if the music demands a quick move from b to C sharp
Conrad
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2007-09-27 11:12
Sounds like the F/C touch may have been bent downwards, and should be a straightforward job for your repairer to sort out on the spot.
Make sure there's nothing in your case that's putting pressure on the keys when it's closed, and that the case itself isn't the cause of this.
The low E/B pad should be very slightly lighter in pressure when compared to the F/C pad when closed with the LH E/B lever only.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: conrad
Date: 2007-09-27 18:36
The E/B pad is relatively tightly closed with the either E/B lever, whilst the C pad does not close completely as I can pull a tissue paper out without it tearing.
The problem is with both right and left keys so it is not the keys, but must be the pad. I had noticed the problem a few weeks ago but it now much worse, and I thought I had lost my technique.
I was also advised that my clarinet should be serviced every two years, but it would have been more like eighteen months afterrwards when the problem first began. Does a pad wear out so quicxkly?
PS
One one hand it's nice to know the problem is my instrument, and not my embouchure.
I know a poor workman blames his tools, but a good workman should know when the tool needs attention!!!
Conrad
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2007-09-27 18:43
Okay, looks as if the cork on the crow's foot is a bit squashed (or the leg is bent). A simple temporary fix is to glue some shim under the RH E/B touchpiece, right where it would touch (and drag down) the crow's foot when operated. For this task I take some scotch tape, cut it into suitable bits and apply one, try, apply a second on top, try... until happy.
--
Ben
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2007-09-27 18:51
Hi Conrad - I would suggest looking at the pad carefully for signs of tearing, possibly partial loss?. If all seems well, your problem might be the loss of the corking on the "crows foot", the small flat piece hanging down from the F/C touch piece. Almost all of us have had that type of problem, so our usual advice to an inexperienced cl'ist, is "take it to a repair shop". Luck, Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
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Author: conrad
Date: 2007-09-27 19:28
Thanks to both latest responses. Clarinet has a green baize fabric rather than cork on crow's foot and, yes, it does look a bit squashed. I will mention this to repair shop.
Instrument is Leblanc Sonata. Do you know if green fabric is normal on this instrument?
Thanks
Conrad
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2007-09-27 19:33
I've seen Bundies with green felt, and I seem to remember that they weren't all that uncommon at a certain time.
The felt has a bit more "give" than cork which makes the setup a bit more tolerant (or - in other words - allows for sloppier work).
--
Ben
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Author: conrad
Date: 2007-09-28 09:14
Tried a few layers of sellotape (Scotch tape) wasn't quite enough, then found a small piece of self-adhesive foam pad. Stuck this to the bottom of the R/H C lever - it works a treat.
Many thanks
Conrad
Conrad
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2007-09-28 13:22
This problem can be from a bent crowsfoot, or bent B key.
It is only rarely caused by a problem with the silencing material on the crowsfoot.
In my experience, a problem here is almost always associated with a pad closing at the back (near the hinge) before it closes at the front. This must be dealt with first, before any linkage adjustments are made.
The problem can be made considerably worse by having sloppy pivots for the E/B key, and a wobbly upper post is quite a common contributor too.
The linkage is made unreliable when the surface of the crowsfoot cork is not in the same plane as the underside of the E/B 'touch' when the keys are pressed down.
It is quite normal to adjust the geometry of this area by bending.
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Author: Bassie
Date: 2007-09-28 16:02
> I take some scotch tape, cut it into suitable bits and apply one, try, apply a second on top, try... until happy.
So it's not just me? :-)
The world is built on shim.
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Author: Avie
Date: 2007-09-28 20:17
I use just enough of clear tape when my upper joint post becomes loose after warm up and it works just fine. Its not just you!!!
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