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 Clear enamel for tone holes and tenons
Author: skygardener 
Date:   2007-09-01 10:25

I was just wondering what enamel products can be used to fill in tone holes to bring pitch down. Until now, I have used clear nail polish but I would like something that dries hard.
Also, is there any thick, hard enamel that can be used to line the tenon recievers? Something that dries hard enough to be cleanly sanded to the right diameter by turning. Nail polish is not cutting it for me.
Thanks,
Sky



Post Edited (2007-09-01 16:03)

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 Re: Clear enamel for tone holes and tenons
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2007-09-01 10:39

What about the old favourite that is ...

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.

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SUPERGLUE!

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

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 Re: Clear enamel for tone holes and tenons
Author: David Spiegelthal 2017
Date:   2007-09-01 11:59

When I line toneholes I usually use very thin sheet cork, which of course can be easily sanded after gluing-in. After it's sanded to the final dimensions, one can use a black permanent marker to color the cork surface black to blend it into the tonehole, cosmetically-speaking. And if moisture absorption by the cork is a concern it can be coated with nail polish.

I don't use nail polish alone to adjust toneholes because IMHO it takes too many layers of the stuff to build up enough thickness to make an appreciable difference (except on instruments such as oboe which have tiny little toneholes and are extremely sensitive to tonehole diameter).

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 Re: Clear enamel for tone holes and tenons
Author: skygardener 
Date:   2007-09-01 12:13

Ok. Cork for the tone holes. I have done that for severe problems- and the good part about it is that it's removable.
As for superglue- I am looking to find something thicker than nail polish, not thinner. Although there is Gel superglue it doesn't dry on it's own- at least in my experience. I left some gel superglue on a piece of plastic once and it was still wet the next day.
On a German clarinet I have I saw some clear stuff in the toneholes that was thick and very hard. Maybe there are some harder than normal nail polishes out there? Or some thick clear paint that's good for this?



Post Edited (2007-09-01 16:05)

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 Re: Clear enamel for tone holes and tenons
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2007-09-01 16:27

Thin suerglue will go off much faster than the thick stuff.

If you use it on tenon rings, degrease the rings thoroughly before applying a thin film of supergue, then leave it for a few minutes to go off before applying another thin layer, doing the same until you have built it up to the required thickness.

But even better still is to use superglue and blackwood dust (and more glue and wood dust building it up bit by bit) - this will build up very quickly and can be worked on straight away (ie. filed, sanded, trimmed or turned).

And it will be pretty much the same colour as the surrounding wood (provided the joints are already very dark - it will be much darker than unstained grenadlila) and won't look grey as some epoxy fillers can - and unlike epoxy you don't have to wait for a whole day to pass before it's fully hardened, you can work on this filler straight away.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

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 Re: Clear enamel for tone holes and tenons
Author: Neil 
Date:   2007-09-01 21:08

I tried building up a socket with clear lacquer once on a back-up clarinet. I wanted to be able to swap my mouthpiece over to it. After many coats and not much success I broke down and bought a $10 mouthpiece which fit just fine.

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 Re: Clear enamel for tone holes and tenons
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2007-09-02 00:33

For toneholes I use hard black wax (the stuff cobblers use) which is applied to the sides of the tonehole and fashioned with a heated piece of round section brass or steel (whichever I have to hand) and then use twist drills (twisted by hand - not mounted in an electric drill!) to remove the required amount to bring the note into tune while still retaining a circular tonehole.

Again this is instant in that it is ready to be worked on once it's cooled, and there's no having to wait around until it's dry before adding to or removing it to get the tuning right. Liquid shellac takes too long to harden as do other varnishes and lacquers.

But any kind of wax will work, though it's best to use a high temperature one such as the hard shoe polish that comes in triangular blocks.

The wax jewellers use to make lost wax castings is hard and melts at high temperatures though I don't know how easily it will stick to the inside of a tonehole http://www.positiveflow.com/wax.htm.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

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