 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2007-07-18 18:17
I have a screw that keeps popping out of it's post. I can't take a picture of it, but it's the one directly next to the RH C#/F# touchkey. It holds the rings for the right hand. I find after playing for about an hour, all of a sudden, the rings will be loose and I'll find the screw on the ground.
I put the screw back in, screwed it tight, then backed it out little by little until the ring action was smooth. Same thing happened after an hour. Then I screwed it back in, backed it until I had good action, and put a dab of clear nail polish on top in hopes to make a little seal. Same thing happened after an hour. So I put the screw back in, and LOADED it up with nail polish (smothered the post and screw).
My question is, if it pops out again tomorrow while practicing, what else can I do? I don't have locktite. One thing that was suggested, I might take a piece of medical tape (thin and rubbery), place it over the hole in the post, and screw it in with the tape covering. This would be in the hopes that the tape will (A) put a little more substance connecting it and make a tighter fit and (B) the 'rubbery' consistency would help the threads grab and lessen the chance of them shaking loose. Also, double-sided scotch tape was another thing I was considering (making sure that I start a small hole where the screw can pass and so the rings will still be able to move freely)
That sound good? Or anything else I should consider?
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: pewd
Date: 2007-07-18 18:46
try a small drop of clear nail polish on the head of the screw.
dont let the polish get into where the ring touches the tip of the screw , just a small drop on the head to keep if from backing out of the post.
- Paul Dods
Dallas, Texas
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2007-07-18 18:47
If you haven't loctite, use nail varnish (dunno what your supply officer says when you ask, tho') or PVA glue. Either can be removed without too much difficulty.
--
Ben
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2007-07-18 18:54
LocTite is available at any auto parts or hardware store. If you have a do-it-yourself car repair shop on the post, they probably have some, or one of the people who uses it will have a tube. There are two formulations, permanent and non-permanent. Be sure to get the non-permanent, as you'll NEVER get the permanent stuff out.
It's probably due to the screw point bottoming out in the key shaft and being unscrewed each time you use the key. Take the key off and probe the conical screw sockets (top and bottom) with a pipe cleaner to clean out any crud. Also, any instrument repair shop will have a spare screw, which can have the tip filed down or partly nipped off.
Did you take the instrument apart to clean it? You may have switched the screw with the one for the low E key. It's a custom fit. As an experiment, try switching the two screws.
To give the screw a little more space, try loosening the screw at the other end of the key shaft 1/2 turn, and put non-permanent LocTite on it.
Ken Shaw
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Author: C2thew
Date: 2007-07-18 19:12
why not keep the action slightly resistant when turning the screw in? if this is the case, the screw should loosen slightly when your playing and it should even it out. Try a small dab of elmers glue in the hole super small dab.
Our inventions are wont to be pretty toys, which distract our attention from serious things. they are but improved means to an unimproved end, an end which was already but too easy to arrive as railroads lead to Boston to New York
-Walden; Henry Thoreau
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2007-07-18 19:37
Thank you for the tips. The clarinet was sent to get something adjusted and I guess they had to remove this screw. Perhaps it got switched or just loosened somehow. I'll check around for non-permanent loctite if this doesn't hold (actually, our repair shop should try to get a hold of some anyway) and the elmer's glue doesn't sound like a bad idea. I assume it'd be gentle enough that I could back the screw out at a later time if I needed to. I don't think it'd be THAT tough of a glue.
Thank you very much. Let's see how she works tomorrow.
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: redwine
Date: 2007-07-18 19:48
Hello,
I'm no repairman, but putting glue into a screw hole doesn't sound good. Try instead to thread some dental floss into the screw hole, then screw in the screw. That bit of resistance should hold the screw in place. After doing that, just watch it carefully to see if it did the trick.
Ben Redwine, DMA
owner, RJ Music Group
Assistant Professor, The Catholic University of America
Selmer Paris artist
www.rjmusicgroup.com
www.redwinejazz.com
www.reedwizard.com
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Author: JJAlbrecht
Date: 2007-07-18 20:14
Alexi, are you still overseas? If so, and you can't get the locktite, contact me directly, and I will pick up a small tube and send out out to you.
Jeff
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Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2007-07-18 20:21
The Buffets clarinet pivot screws that have a nylok compression ring around the screw next to the head. The idea was to prevent what you describe. Sometimes the material becomes compressed and doesn't work as designed. I've also seen the pivots with the material missing. I suppose the material was nicked or something and came off. Replacing the pivot screw usually solves the issue.
Also, make sure that there isn't anything making the pivot bind. When the key moves does the head of the pivot also rotate? If so, there's a problem that shouldn't exist and when you play the action is literally "backing out" the pivot.
As already stated, do NOT use the permanent Loc-tite. I think the low grade Loc-tite 222 would be sufficient.
John
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2007-07-19 05:30
I have used teflon tape for that kind of problem. It works well, but you have to put it back in if you take the screw out at anytime.
other idea- if you only have nail polish, put the nail polish on the threads or just under the head, and put the screw back AFTER the nail polish is dry.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2007-07-19 07:16
You can try to find loctite (the weakest one I think it is 22) or some glues (I found one glue that is good for this). Sometimes wax from a candle is good for this and I used it long time ago for some emergincy but I haven't used it since I've been using the weak loctite or glue. Unlike what someone wrote, not every repairer will have a spare screw (especially not knowing what clarinet the screw is for) but some will. Changing the screw might or might not fix the problem.
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2007-07-19 08:41
I'm still overseas, but we'll be able to find loctite over here in one of the various little shoppettes we have here. So far, so good. It hasn't budged after two hours of practice this morning. We'll see if lasts the rest of the day (only about an hour and a half more). But thanks for the ideas. I'm sure it'll be ok. I just hope that if it DOES pop out again, it's at a setting where I can easily find it on the ground (hopefully not during a marching gig or over grass or anything . . . )
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2007-07-19 11:15
I'd have the ring keys refitted by a reputable tech (have the ends of the lower ring key barrel countersunk a tiny bit more so they're a good fit between the points when both screws are fully tightened) rather than having to muck around with this screw each time it comes loose.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2007-07-19 13:50
Chris P wrote:
> I'd have the ring keys refitted by a reputable tech (have the
> ends of the lower ring key barrel countersunk a tiny bit more
> so they're a good fit between the points when both screws are
> fully tightened) rather than having to muck around with this
> screw each time it comes loose.
>
I'll keep that in mind and if it's still a problem when I return, that sounds like a good idea. I never woulda thought that.
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2007-07-19 14:40
Make sure the pillars are secure as well before having the ends of the key barrel countersunk to take the point screws, or having the screws countersunk into the pillar heads.
Sometimes anchored pillars (that have the base plate with one or two screws keeping it secure) can loosen, and cause the ring keys to loosen up or become tight which can cause the point screw to back out. So the screws holding the pillar in place should be tight, then check how the ring keys fit betwen them and then do the necessary to fit the ring key between the points if the fit is too tight or too loose.
Either way, the screws do need to be tight, as well as the screws anchoring the pillar in place. If it hasn't got anchored pillars, then the pillar thread may be a loose fit in the body which can be tightened up with a drop of superglue on the end of the thread, then screwed in - or at worst, the pillar hole will need to be bushed and a new hole drilled and the pillar refitted making sure it sits at the correct height and the bearing surface (the flat side where the point screw emerges) is square on with the opposite pillar.
Some makers will have a standard screw-in pillar with a locking screw fitted into a hole drilled into the body and cutting into the pillar base to prevent the pillar turning.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2007-07-20 14:06
Yes, check the security of the pillars.
Then Loctite 222, or other brand equivalent.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2007-07-22 12:55
As a thing-else-available measure, winding some filaments of wool around the thread seems to work. So tedious! I've never done it myself.
At least it can be made to secure the thread along much of its length, like Loctite does, stopping any tendency for the screw to wobble that can remain when the slot end has been glued.
Post Edited (2007-07-22 12:58)
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