 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: DAVE
Date: 2007-05-14 00:49
I was talking to a friend yesterday who mentioned that his repair tech was speaking to the folks who make Heckle bassoons and that they use a layer of silicone on the leather pads after seating them to make then seal perfectly. Has anyone here ever heard of this? If so, how is it done and what kind of silicone product is used?
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2007-05-14 01:28
This process is also done by Amellio in Boston. Though more a "sax" guy, he does a really good job on clarinets. He recommends applying a small amount of "Old English" furniture polish once a month to keep the leather from drying out. Sorry, don't know the type of silicone, but maybe he could tell you. Call Rayburn Music in Boston, MA.
.........Paul Aviles
Post Edited (2007-05-14 10:58)
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2007-05-14 04:05
there are some silicone spray products used for lubricants on sliding doors and such.
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Author: OpusII
Date: 2007-05-14 12:39
I've used the silicone spray for my bicycle chain in the past on my Buffet B10 valentino pads. It’s almost bin a year that I've threaded the pads with the silicon spray and I've never had any problem with them until this moment (and hopefully many good years to go )
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2007-05-14 12:45
arn't valentino's already synthetic and airtight? would it work for skin pads- leather or bladdar.
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Author: OpusII
Date: 2007-05-14 13:01
Skygardener,
I believe so, but they tend to stick on the plastic body of the Buffet B10.
Silicone spray really seems to work as a solution.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2007-05-14 15:22
I think there is confusion between silicone lubricant and silicone as a rubberized coating such as one finds on the fingertips of cheap work gloves. This coating process is successful on larger leather pads as stated above.
..........Paul Aviles
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Author: zorib
Date: 2007-05-15 13:38
I use a water-based silicone sealer from "naturalizer", a shoe company. It has fixed the "sticking" problem on my soprano sax, and has not "hurt" the leather pads in any way. My clarinet pads on the other hand were serviced by Emilio in Boston, and yes, he does recommend one use "English Lemon Oil" on the pads when they start sticking, or just to hydrate them.
<><><><><><><><><>
Selmer 10G Bb and Selmer Odyssey A;
Selmer B*, Bonade (inverted), 3.5 Vandoren standard.
Zori Babroudi.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2007-05-15 14:00
Zori,
Thank you fixing my spelling....names are not my forte.
Dave,
Sounds from Zori that it's just a matter of "painting it on" and letting it dry. Just don't try it on your best horn the day before a recital just in case there is a learning curve.
.......Paul Aviles
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2007-05-15 16:54
I know Dave Spiegelthal puts brown leather pads on his clarinets. He repadded one of my clarinets in the past and did a great job. I wonder if he uses some sort of lubricant/conditioner type thing on them. If he's reading, maybe he can chime in. If he's reading . . . .
US Army Japan Band
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2007-05-15 17:40
Howdy General Alexi!
I don't put any chemicals or coatings on new leather pads. Sometimes if I'm given a sax or clarinet with used leather pads that are still in decent condition, I'll brush on a bit of Ferree Tools' pad preserving liquid (I forget the exact name of the product) -- which appears to be a silicone in a light amber-colored solvent base. I'm not sure if it does a whole lot of good, but it does seem to have some value in cleaning an older pad and restoring a bit of pliability to the leather. I can also get an idea of the age and condition of used pads by noting how quickly the Ferree's liquid is absorbed (or not) into them.
Years ago I bought an alto sax than had been overhauled by Emilio Lyons of Rayburn Music in Boston, and it did indeed have some sort of glossy coating on the leather pads. They worked well, and I noticed he also used (in a number of places) strips of leather as key bumpers/shims rather than cork -- a nice touch.
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2007-05-15 17:56
I knew you were out there somewhere . . . not general yet . . . but who knows what the future holds?
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2007-05-15 18:06
If it works it works - can not argue with that - but Old English Lemon Oil furniture polish is basically mineral oil with a touch of lemon oil and silicone. I prefer to use products that have historically been shown to preserve and keep leather soft - which is not mineral oil. Silicone indeed comes in a number of formulations - some slick, some as noted are sticky to the touch. Many of the silicone lubricants contain a volatile organic solvent vehicle which may harm leather - others that are not sprays have a mineral oil vehicle or other vehicle to deliver the silicone.
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
Post Edited (2007-05-15 18:07)
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Author: rtmyth
Date: 2007-05-17 13:30
Lexol is great for leather furniture coverings and shoes. Not sticky when dry. Also, I used it on my leather car seats.
richard smith
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Author: zorib
Date: 2007-05-17 21:01
I just looked at the "ingredients" of the "Old English Oil", and it says :"Almond oil, and lemon perfume..." There is no real mineral oil in there....
I think it is pretty safe for leather pads (in moderation of course).
<><><><><><><><><>
Selmer 10G Bb and Selmer Odyssey A;
Selmer B*, Bonade (inverted), 3.5 Vandoren standard.
Zori Babroudi.
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2007-05-17 23:48
At the price of real almond oil it certainly cannot be primarily almond oil which, without antioxidants, would quickly go rancid. It may have almond oil, and lemon perfume but it certainly has a majority of mineral oil - the only bulk ingredient cheap enough to make a pint worth at the selling price + 4 mark ups (manufacturer, broker, distributor, store).
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
P.S. Thanks Gordon for the definitive answer.
Post Edited (2007-05-17 23:58)
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2007-05-17 23:54
It's listed here as over 90% mineral oil;
http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:nSEs5WJ0bMQJ:householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands%3Ftbl%3Dchem%26id%3D489+%22old+english+oil%22+ingredients&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=nz
And this says the info comes from an MSDS sheet
http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=18001047
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