 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Hank Lehrer
Date: 2007-04-05 02:10
Hi,
I have suddenly found a great of difficulty with the D#6 on my Leblanc L200.
The problem became apparent with a recent performance of Four Scottish Dances by Arnold when a C#6 to D#6 trill was called for. I ordinarily do not add the Ab/Eb key for venting with this trill since the intonation of the C# is really high then. What happened was that the D# went higher into the altissimo for no apparent reason. This happened every time.
I tried playing the D# alone using the TR 0 x x ] o x o and the same jump occurred. Adding the Eb/Ab makes everything fine. The D#6 fingering of T R 0 X X ] X 0 sliver + Eb is just fine.
All sorts of MP and reed combinations were tried and the same problem still exists. I tried the same fingerings on my R13 and Series 9* and found no problem existed; everything worked perfectly.
I took my trusty L200 to my favorite tech and we both fiddled with the instrument for well over an hour. He replaced pads, checks both sections for leaks, looked into the holes, scrapped inside, changed the key height, and the same problem persists. He did a smoke test as well.
We both were fresh out of ideas. Anyone have a suggestion?
HRL
PS My tech said he found several keys that were bent in the upper section. I am extremely careful with my instruments. I have considered that someone may have knocked my clarinet off its peg during a rehearsal and did not tell me.
Post Edited (2007-04-05 15:46)
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2007-04-05 11:25
Hank -
Check whether the register key is opening too far. When it's open, you should just be able to slide a nickel in the gap.
Try turning the middle joint so the bridge key is disengaged. If the D# works, then the link is too tight and the pad for the right hand rings is being forced slightly open.
Check for cracks, particularly between the right hand index finger hole and the pad-covered hole just above it. This is the thinnest wood area on the instrument and is prone to cracking.
Buffets are designed with the lower tenon of the upper joint about 1 mm. shorter than the socket of the lower joint. I'm not sure about Leblancs. If there is a gap, try inserting a tuning ring. (the socket is usually the same size as the one at the top of the barrel. If that's the problem, glue a cork shim on the bottom of the tenon to fill it in.
Good luck.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Hank Lehrer
Date: 2007-04-05 13:09
Hi Ken,
Thanks for the tips. The register key one is something that has not been tried yet. We checked the bridge key but I'll look over the crack issue right away.
Frustrating problem!!!
HRL
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Author: Wes
Date: 2007-04-07 06:35
Hi Hank!
It's good to see that you are back in business. It was fun to see you.
As a guess, could the middle joint cork be leaking a tiny bit? Sometimes they seem ok but have leaks when the joints are pushed one way or the other. Maybe it would pay to replace the cork. Another possibility which you seem to allready have looked at is the C#/G# pad or tonehole. A chip in the tonehole or a key that is bottoming out without fully closing could cause your frustrating problem.
Good Wishes,
Wes
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Author: Burt
Date: 2007-04-07 14:30
The D# fingering you describe is flat on my pre-R13. According to my clarinet teacher several years ago, that fingering is generally flat. When the sliver-key fingering is not convenient, I use
T R o x x | o o x Eb, especially in following C#. (It's very convenient on eefer.) I admit it's a little awkward as a trill fingering.
If the solutions that Ken and Wes gave didn't help enough, perhaps just live with your fingering or the fingering above for trills.
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Author: Hank Lehrer
Date: 2007-04-14 16:48
Hi,
I have been looking into the suggestions that have been offered for my problem and I did discover one interesting thing. I had not looked in the lower section tenon socket area. When I did, just past the tenon into the bore on top just before the Bb hole was a burr-like piece of "something." There is not a lot of distance from the bottom of the tenon to the tone hole.
I scrapped a little with a small knife blade to remove the burr and then used some very fine grit emery cloth to smooth the area. The instrument now plays perfectly.
All I can figure is the that small piece of debris was causing an acoustical problem - remember, I could use the fingering in question on my R13 or Series 9* with no problem). So, I need to play the clarinet for a while to make friends again and see what happens.
Can any of the techs or woodwind acoustical aficionados confirm that a small protrusion/burr such as I found could have been the cause of the problem I experienced?
HRL
Post Edited (2007-04-14 23:58)
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