The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: William
Date: 2001-10-24 16:41
An old trick is to put a dollar bill (or bigger if you have any) under the pad, close it and gently pull your money out. Another emergency measure is to take some talc powder or chalk from a chalk board and put some on the stuck pad to block the adhesive effect. Bottom line, however, is that the sticky pads need to be replaced as they will invariably restick once the powder or "dollar debrie" wear off. To avoid sticky pads, ALWAYS brush your teeth (and gums, cheeks and tongue) between eatting and playing. And ALWAYS swab your instrument after playing. I carry toothpaste and brushes in all of my instrument cases and never play after eatting without first brushing--even after snacks on breaks!!! And, I never experiance stuck pads--just occasional "hungar pangs" as all of the strings, percussion and brass players "pig out." Good Dental Hygene and Good Clarineting!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Author: Peter
Date: 2001-10-24 18:30
Ditto to practicing the fore-stated mouth hygene habits. That's really a most important part of keeping your pads from sticking.
However, you can still eventually have pads stick while you play, and nothing replaces good maintenance habits.
Your local music shop should have "pad papers." They come in a small, rectangular book and help keep pads dry and stick-free.
Take one paper and fold it in half, longways, several times, until it fits through and around the instrument's mechanisms, but covers the entire width of the pad to be cleaned. Then:
Put it under a pad, press the cup down gently to squeeze excess moisture onto the paper; release the pressure and just hold the pad down ever so gently, so it makes contact with the paper surface; then pull out the paper, "feeling" it to ensure you are not pressing the cup too tight and leaving debris between the pad and the tone hole.
The idea is not to leave "dollar debris" behind to cover the "gummies," but to dry the pad and wipe off any surface "gummies" that may be causing the stickiness.
This used to be done with regular cigarrette papers, but several manufacturers (Yamaha and Sam Ash dba/Jean Baptiste, to mention a couple) have actually manufactured a paper specific for the task and which leaves behind almost, or no residue if you use them correctly.
Do this every time, after you play your clarinet (it only takes a minute to do all the pads,) and if you are playing for a long time. Also do it every time you swab or take a break if you notice a lot of condensation in your instrument while you play.
If you do this religiously, and observe William's mouth hygene habits, you will never again have stuck pads. (Well, probably anyway!)
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Author: terry
Date: 2001-10-25 13:05
1. the cheapest, most universally available, and strongest is
"end papers" sold by the 100s for rolling ladies hair curlers.
excellent strength, absorbancy, and a fraction of the cost
of all the alternatives.
2. if this does not work, dampen afforementioned paper with
rubbing alchohol to cut the sticky.
3. you probably need a quality pad job. to avoid raising the
ire of the no-commercial persons, contact me directly,
not here and I will tell you my most favorite craftsman.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-12-10 04:13
The Yamaha Cleaner Paper iis thin, flexible, very strong, and has the added advantage of not being softened by solvents, eg alcohol, lighter fluid, and acetone.
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Author: C2thew
Date: 2006-12-10 04:16
"The Yamaha Cleaner Paper iis thin, flexible, very strong, and has the added advantage of not being softened by solvents, eg alcohol, lighter fluid, and acetone."
Not to mention it also makes a nice oil remover from your face. Same stuff used in those beauty oil absorbing beauty products.
Our inventions are wont to be pretty toys, which distract our attention from serious things. they are but improved means to an unimproved end, an end which was already but too easy to arrive as railroads lead to Boston to New York
-Walden; Henry Thoreau
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-12-10 09:15
NEVER use talc, chalk or any powder to 'cure' sticky pads with - it will get into the mechanism and bind everything solid, and also make it difficult for the repairer to get the stuck screws out when this happens.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Arnoldstang
Date: 2006-12-10 15:15
Hi, If this is chronic...take key of the clarinet, clean pad with paper towel moistened with small amount of water. Do the same on toneholes...also use Q tips. JP
Freelance woodwind performer
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-12-10 15:39
Or use methylated spirits to clean both the pad surface and the entire tonehole rim, but don't scrub the pad hard with the cotton bud - just wipe it gently to remove grease or dirt.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2006-12-10 15:54
But once the skin has become loose (not necessarily torn) it will inevitably start to make that smacking noise again. Pads don't heal, unfortunately.
--
Ben
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Author: massa
Date: 2006-12-10 16:04
Once the pads get sticky it is almost impossible to recover the non-sticky feel until you replace the pads. I use Yamaha Powder Paper to cover up the stickiness (or just being too cheap to visit the repair tech...) I tried Doc's Pad Cleaner (is sold under Technician's corner). It works well so if you are a good amature DIY tech, you may give it a try.
And, a good'ol "brush you teeth before you play" should be practiced.
- m
Post Edited (2006-12-10 16:17)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-12-10 17:53
If the pad skin is loose, you can get it tight again by wetting the surface of the pad and using a pad iron (heated with a smokeless flame from a bunsen burner or gas torch) which will tighten everything up - but don't heat the pad iron up too much or you'll burn the pad.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2006-12-10 18:04
...pad iron...looks like a perfect gift for the musician who has everything.
--
Ben
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-12-10 18:05
Just make sure you don't get tramlines in them!
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-12-10 22:20
Chris wrote "NEVER use talc, chalk or any powder to 'cure' sticky pads with - it will get into the mechanism and bind everything solid, and also make it difficult for the repairer to get the stuck screws out when this happens."
No problem if you don't get the powder on the mechanism. Rub it into paper, shake off ALL excess, and use the paper. Or buy those super-soft, super-tough Yamaha Powder Papers.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-12-10 22:23
My statement on sticky pads is in http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/read.html?f=1&i=159907&t=159870
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-12-11 12:02
Yeah, but you know how messy some people can be, I had a tough job cleaning up a soprano sax (an old Corton) that was covered in powder to 'cure' the sticky pads, only it bound up the mechanism to add to the problem.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: stevesklar
Date: 2006-12-11 12:42
I guess the key is to not pour the powder onto the clarinet first .. like you do to a baby's bottom
I also use a small strip of hard felt. put it between the key and tonehole. close the key with light pressure and turn back and forth. have to be careful not to "scrub" the pad too much. But it cleans off gunk quite well.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-12-11 21:33
Powder all over the mechanism sure is a mess to clean off. Solvents won't do it. Every surface needs scrubbing. I guess it may be an ideal case for ultrasonics.
Well-powdered mechanism seems to be associated with rusting pivots. I guess the powder absorbs away all the protective oil from the pivots.
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Author: stevesklar
Date: 2006-12-11 21:43
Chris - next they'll be putting their sop saxes in the dishwasher .....
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-12-11 22:19
At least they'll be clean! I might try that on a cheap sax to see what damage it does.
I usually give sax and plastic clarinet bodies a good wash with warm water and washing up liquid when servicing or overhauling them, but it depends on the condition of the lacquer on some old saxes - if the lacquer is flaky then I clean them up with a damp cloth to avoid what little lacquer remains getting washed down the plug hole.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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