 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: C2thew
Date: 2006-07-05 15:44
I've tried to dig up information on how to restore clarinet logos on older model clarinets but i have not found anybody who is willing to share information on how to restore the gold logo on a clarinet. I honestly don't think its a big issue of sharing information, but hey, some people just want to know.
I've tried using gold acryllic and acetone with good results, however faded logos are harder to get acrylic into the cracks. is there a gold electric stencil that can restore these logos?
any info would help thanks.
Our inventions are wont to be pretty toys, which distract our attention from serious things. they are but improved means to an unimproved end, an end which was already but too easy to arrive as railroads lead to Boston to New York
-Walden; Henry Thoreau
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2006-07-05 16:32
The standard restoration method is to use a wax crayon impregnated with gold color. Any repair shop will have them and will probably give you a stub at no cost.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2006-07-05 19:00
Good advice above, I took an oldie to my fav repairer, believe he use a was crayon, came back rubbing off ?excess?. I bot a gold marker from Hobby-Lobby, works, but not well for me. For info only, I use bright light and ?shadow? reflectivity, such as for ser #s. Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-07-05 21:23
You want the same gilt cream used for repairing picture frames - it comes in a small jar or tube and in any shade of gold you like, though do go for a bright gold so it really shows up. My Selmers look swish since I did the logos on them, and they haven't faded much.
But the real success of the restoration is in the depth the logo has been engraved or stamped - the deeper the better.
Here's a link for Liberon gilt cream:
http://www.goldleafcompany.com/liberon.html
Then look for Gilt Cream. The full link won't work on here:
http://www.goldleafcompany.com/liberon.html#giltcream
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2006-07-05 23:03)
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Author: bcl1dso
Date: 2006-07-05 22:31
Ok how about how do you restore the logo itself. I mean the actually wood carving
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Author: C2thew
Date: 2006-07-05 22:41
Oh i can answer that, buy a wood burning kit from a local flea market supply place. They sell wood burners all the time. As for the logo restoration information thank you guys so much. Any idea where you can pick up the special gold crayon they have? i'm going to the glit cream site right now. thanks for the help.
-Crandall
Our inventions are wont to be pretty toys, which distract our attention from serious things. they are but improved means to an unimproved end, an end which was already but too easy to arrive as railroads lead to Boston to New York
-Walden; Henry Thoreau
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Author: GBK
Date: 2006-07-05 23:07
C2thew wrote:
> Any idea where you can pick up the special gold crayon they
> have?
Did you read the thread which was referenced above? ...GBK
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Author: corks&pads
Date: 2006-07-06 15:53
<i>You want the same gilt cream used for repairing picture frames - it comes in a small jar or tube and in any shade of gold you like, though do go for a bright gold so it really shows up.</i>
ChrisP - I've tried using that before, but had a devil of a time getting the excess to come off of the wood. I ended up having to use mineral spirits and a lot of cotton swabs to clean the stuff out of the woodgrain, etc. By the time I was finished, the gilt in the stamp impression was nearly gone, too. Now I use Feree's crayon.
What's your technique?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-07-06 18:26
I completely smother the logo with the gilt cream making sure it gets into all the corners (using an old reed split and the tip cut square as a pallate knife), then flatten it all out with the same reed and leave it for an hour or more for it to fully dry.
Then scrape off any excess with a clean edge of an old reed and strop it with a dry cloth. The 'overspray' can be removed with cotton buds and solvent, and any gilt cream has got into the pores or surface vessels can be picked out with a needle or scalpel tip.
But when tidying up, try not to go over the logo - easier said than done, but with masses of patience you can get it cleaned up well. Just go round the letters or features carefully with a cotton bud and solvent to remove the gilt cream that has got onto where you don't want it to go.
You can also use a very dark brown or black permanent marker pen to cover any overspray, but buff it with a cloth afterwards so you can't see where you've been doing any touch up work.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2006-07-06 19:27
What does one do with a clarinet that is basically unmarked? I have a Bundy where the logo (I always thought they were literally "branded") has magically disappeared (yet the key cups have that typical Bundy shape). Dunno how the logos managed to disappear, all I see is a very faint spot that has a slightly different texture than the material around.
Not that it were all that important, yet I'm puzzled...
--
Ben
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-07-06 19:47
Selmer USA clarinets (Bundy and Buescher) from around the '70s had the logo transfered on (like the adhesive transfers you get with Airfix models) and these wear off to leave a slightly dull area. The only one I've seen where this transfer is around 90% intact is my oboe teacher's plastic Buescher Aristocrat which is in excellent condition for it's age.
But now a lot of student clarinets have the logo printed on instead of being stamped on mechanically with a heated stamp and heat activated adhesive backed gold foil.
Compare a new B12 with one from around 20 years ago - the current ones have the printed Buffet logo whereas the older ones had the stamped logo.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2006-07-06 21:12
> like the adhesive transfers you get with Airfix models
Gee, that caused a flashback some 30 years back. Dunno how much money I spent for Airfix, Revell and the like back then.
<daydreams some more> Thanks.
--
Ben
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-07-06 23:05
tictactux wrote:
> Gee, that caused a flashback some 30 years back. Dunno how much
> money I spent for Airfix, Revell and the like back then.
> <daydreams some more> Thanks.
I only remembered Airfix models when I mentioned transfers too - and putting the wings on a Spitfire the wrong way round. Back in the '70s as well! Though I spent more of my pocket money on die-cast model cars.
Funny thing is that a load of plastic model Humvees and other models (bi-rotor helicopters, bi-planes and US Army jeeps and trucks) showed up at work a while back - these were for prospective employees to demonstrate their general aptitude and neatness in their work before being unleashed on oboes. Well, there's a sequence to follow and a good eye for detail needed on both, so it's a pretty good test to see who is suitable for the job.
And we have a Tombeur stamping machine for stamping the logos with - it has a heat controller and a variety of spacers, stamps and collets for using on any instrument made there. But it's much easier to stamp the logo on wooden joints than it is on plastic (strangely enough, plastic needs more heat than wood for the stamp to take effect, though the foil doesn't take too well on plastic). And also much easier to remove, clean up and restamp the logo on wooden joints if the logo didn't line up as expected.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: C2thew
Date: 2006-07-06 23:36
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Update
I went to the local art supply store to see if i could find some gilt cream and i found something else on top of that
what tools i have to work with:
gold leafing gold 812 How do i use this??????
Treasure gold classic gold (looks like the same thing as the liquitix acrylic)
What i have used on my barrel
Mini paint brush (don't use)
Liquitex munsell hue color (not too bright or too shiny. just right.
que tip
Finger
Paint thinner
I have used the smudge method using just plain old acryllic and it works relatively well only on deep crevices, but the downside is that if you leave it on, it's a little difficult to get the paint off unless you use paint thinner
any recommendations with the gold leaving i bought and the treasure gold? should i open and use the treasure gold?
So which method works?
Our inventions are wont to be pretty toys, which distract our attention from serious things. they are but improved means to an unimproved end, an end which was already but too easy to arrive as railroads lead to Boston to New York
-Walden; Henry Thoreau
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Author: Terry Stibal
Date: 2006-07-07 01:04
In order to properly apply gold (or any other type) leaf:
1) Clean the work area thoroughly, getting out all of the old color
2) Paint the inside portions of the logo stamping with the sizing/glue that you purchase at the same place as your gold leaf
3) Apply the leaf to the prepared surface with a burnishing tool. A small ball ended burnisher works best
4) Allow it to set a while, then 'tear' off the excess leaf
It doesn't ever tarnish, but it can be mechanically abraded.
A little gold leaf goes a long, long way...
leader of Houston's Sounds Of The South Dance Orchestra
info@sotsdo.com
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Author: C2thew
Date: 2006-07-07 05:43
thanks for sharing. well now i have both techniques of either smudging or glueing and tearing. i've done the smudging and i guess it works quite well. using gold leaf might have its possitives, but i fear it might take some time versus smudging
thanks for your help guys. appreciate the feedback
Our inventions are wont to be pretty toys, which distract our attention from serious things. they are but improved means to an unimproved end, an end which was already but too easy to arrive as railroads lead to Boston to New York
-Walden; Henry Thoreau
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