 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Jamietalbot
Date: 2006-06-24 06:13
I've just discovered a crack in my 30 year old BH 1010.
Here we go again-repairer,pinning,large bill ect.
It's happened to me before on R13s and a thought struck me.
Is rosewood less likely to crack than ebony?
If anyone out there has experience of this I'd be interested to hear
about it.
Jamie Tabot
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-06-24 09:43
Rosewood is just as likely to crack as grenadilla. With any wood there's always the risk of cracks. But the repair work done on rosewood (and kingwood and cocobolo) bodied instruments is harder to hide than it is on grenadilla - it's the fillings that will show up more on lighter woods, grenadilla has the advantage of being very dark so holes can be filled without them showing up too much if at all.
I wouldn't worry, you've been there before and know that cracks can be sorted out - even if it's a pain.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Jamietalbot
Date: 2006-06-24 11:05
Thanks , Chris.
That makes a lot of sense.
I thought about Buffet Greenline insruments but obviously they,re
smaller bore than 1010s.
I,ll just get it repaired.
Jamie
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2006-06-24 17:15
My BH cracked straight down the sidekey tone holes. The repair job was done by a very competent US repairman. The area around the holes for the pins turned into little mounds, so that the my upper joint now looks like the neck of Frankenstein's Monster...oh well. At least I still have my Boosey.
I hear that Eaton makes a large bore (Boosey copy) but I have never tried it.
.............Paul Aviles
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-06-24 17:44
Yeah, that's the Peter Eaton Elite - it hasn't got the Acton vent, and weighs a lot more than a 1010. And Luis Rossi makes a 1010 bore clarinet.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-06-25 10:46
"..... The repair job was done by a very competent US repairman......
The area around the holes for the pins turned into little mounds, so that the my upper joint now looks like the neck of Frankenstein's Monster...oh well. "
Why did your "VERY" competent repairer leave mounds?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-06-25 12:23
Sounds like the pins have rusted since they were fitted.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2006-06-25 21:14
Oh no, that's the way it was finished from the shop. I think he may have been afraid of the larger bore and attempted to place the pins closer to the surface. You can even make out a bit of the brass on a couple of the ends. When I got it back I was appalled but then what could be done?
On the other side of the coin I had someone else pin a wooden Pomarico mouthpiece with a budding crack down the table that was virtually invisible.
I know where I'm going the next time I have a crack.
.............Paul Aviles
Post Edited (2006-06-25 21:19)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-06-25 22:08
The bore is only 15.2mm - that's only around 0.5mm larger than most clarinets which still leaves plenty of wood to drill into without going near the bore. Sounds like they've never had much experience in pinning cracks.
I bought a Centered Tone that had numerous pins (at least 5) in the top joint that were all put in way too shallow, and both ends of each pin were showing.
So I ended up milling several blind holes at each end of the pins (taking down the ends of the pins as well) so they could all be filled in and hidden - after filling, papering up and polishing the filled in holes are almost invisible.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-06-26 00:17
"....You can even make out a bit of the brass on a couple of the ends......"
It sounds as if the technician did not have equipment to remove any pinning metal that was proud of the timber surface.
One way of finishing up with mounds and metal showing is using the (valid) blind hole approach, and screwing the pins too far through, such that they push out the surface of the timber on the blind side.
All metal should be below the surface, and the cavities filled and levelled for a good cosmetic result, LEVEL with the original timber surface. Anything else is a poor pinning job, IMO.
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