 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: bcl1dso
Date: 2006-05-27 03:07
For the repainmen or anyone that replaces their own pads, where do you get your cork pads. What "brand" are they and how much do you have to pay for them. Also what tool do you use to put them in. My Repairman had this tool the was like pliers that heated up, do anyone know what these are called and where they can be found. Thanks.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-05-27 10:47
I think my cork pads are from S.A. Rosas - they do need to be ground so the face is completely smooth and flat, and I put them in with stick shellac (not liquid) using a bunsen burner flame.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2006-05-27 13:01
I rarely use cork pads, but the ones I've got were obtained from Ferree's Tools and they are very good, no 'post-processing' required. As with all other types of pads I use silicone glue/sealant to install them (this is not the norm, by the way). No tools needed.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-05-27 13:23
I'm not too sure about the heated up pliers thingy - sounds like some Mediaeval torture device!
I grind the face of my cork pads on three different grades of pumice block, from a coarse bock to smooth to get a fine finish on them. Though they can be used as is, I just want to be sure they're completely smooth and flat before seating them.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Swede
Date: 2006-05-27 14:03
Hi i'm swedish and new to this board (my english isn't so nice either...)
I've just changed some pads om my Buffet E11, i only use a cork pad on the register key and ordinary pads on the other...
You can use a "Soldering Gun" (don't recommend a "bunsen burner") to heat the keys to easely replace the old pad and than use some shellac for gluing.
There is a free video on the net:
http://www.probirt.com/nm/tour/default.asp?section=clinics
demonstrate how to use "Solering Guns" on woodwind instruments.
/Dan
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Merlin
Date: 2006-05-27 14:07
The "heated-up pliers thing" is a pad cup heater. We use one in the shop for adjusting pads that are already in the cup. Votaw makes them.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-05-27 14:16
Welcome Dan,
I've always used a bunsen burner with a large flame (using Calor gas) - never had any trouble with it - it's just a case of what you're used to using, what suits some people doesn't suit others. And it doesn't damage or discolour silver plating.
But I can also silver (hard) solder keys and other metal parts with the same bunsen burner flame as well if I need to, so it has good all-round use - as well as hardening and tempering steel tools with.
I usually chamfer the speaker pad as well. Seat it on the speaker bush as you'd normally do, then trim around the edge (leaving the impression in the middle untouched) with a sharp blade until you have a cone-shaped pad, then paper it up with 1200 grit for a nice smooth finish all round the chamfer.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2006-05-28 00:12
I get my cork pads from Ed Kraus. I also finish the face of the cork pad using different grades of micro mesh. I use George's glue. To ensure a good seat I use a leak light AND a feeler gage. My feeler gage material is very thin mylar. I bevel the back of the pad, but only chamfer the pad on the register key. Cork pads cost $1.05 ea up to $2.75 ea (plus shipping) depending on the size.
jbutler
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-05-28 08:30
For feeler gauges I use silver Rizlas - they're half the thickness of blue Rizlas.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-05-28 10:12
"The cork pads do not really have a "brand" as such when they are marketed.
My cork pads come from music Center in Italy, or from Kraus. No matter who the supplier, they are probably all sourced form only 1 or 2 manufacturers in Portugal, of which SA Rosa (in Portugal) is one who as far as I know, sells direct to the public... http://www.novitasrosas.com/
An easy source for cork pads is Musicmedic
http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/categories/cat_12.html
I used to use the cream "French" shellac sticks, supplied by Ferrees, Allied, etc, but had to change when I bought a higher grade of (bladder) pad which had a surface on the back to which the shellac did not stick well. Now I use glue pellets from JL Smith, in preference to Georges Glue, because there is a visual sign when the glue is at a suitable temperature.
Often I see no need to further prepare a quality cork pad's surface.
The pad cup heater mentioned can be seen at
http://www.votawtool.com/zcom.asp?pg=products&specific=jnprjnl0
A soldering gun with its tip split in two can indeed be used instead, and is a lot cheaper, but the voltage of these varies quite a lot, and those with higher voltage will arc to the key cup and damage the surface. (My Weller soldering gun seemingly operates at only about 0.2 volts. My Votaw keater operates at about 4 volts, but has carbon electrodes, which perhaps have less inclination to arc.) The cheaper the gun, the higher the voltage is likely to be.
However, by far the most common method of heating a clarinet key cup is with a flame. The non-flame heater is used for much more risky situations such as on piccolo or oboe, or difficult-to-access keys on soprano sax.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
