 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2006-01-10 09:33
Hello
I am going to have the pads on my clarinet changed. Considering the price and quality of the work I saw around here I decided there is no reason not to do it myself, eventhough I don't experience.
The pads I will put on my clarinet are leather pads.
I decided that for practice I'll change the pads on my old R13 (which needs some new pads anyway). I'd like to ask what tools exactly do I need to be able to change all pads on a clarinet (I don't have any repair tools other than some screwdrivers). Also, where can I get pads that will match a R13.
There is a place I saw many mention called Ferree's but they have all sizes of pads. In that case I probably need to measure the sizes of the pads I have already, so would also need a tool for that.
Thanks, and any help will be appreciated.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-01-10 10:07
As I just said in another thread, I suggest that you spend your first $73 wisely on THE COMPLETE WOODWIND REPAIR MANUAL, From the shop at http://www.napbirt.org/
That will save you asking many of the hundreds (literally) of questions that you need to be asking, questions that would take longer for a technician to answer here than it would take to repad several instruments.
Personally I don't feel quite that dedicated.
Yes, you need to measure the diameter of the INSIDE of the key cups, to the nearest 1/2 mm. Technicians use a slide vernier. Then when you try that size of pad, it will often be the case that the size smaller or larger is better, depending on the exact construction of the particular model of pad.
The thickness of the pad, especially of the felt itself, is important.
The first thing I would do with your register vent key cup, is to correct its alignment with the tone hole. I would use a tool I made especially for this purpose.
When a clarinet is repadded, the padding itself is typically about 1/3 of the work involved. Many mechanical corrections to pivots, springs, posts etc are normal.
All of this needs specialist knowledge and often specialised equipment.
But go for it if you wish. :-) That is how I became a technician. I think that to do what you are doing successfully, you need excellent mechanical analysis and problem-solving aptitude, and experience with applying these inclinations to working with many materials, and mechanical gadgetry.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2006-01-10 10:23
Thank you very much for your answer Gordon. I think I'll buy that book, although I'm not sure how much is really possible to learn from a book.
Gordon, if you don't mind I would like to send you an email, so if it ok with you send me an email to clarnibass@yahoo.com
Don't worry, I'm not going to start asking you a lot of questions about how to repair.
Thanks.
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Author: bwilber
Date: 2006-01-10 11:58
Hi Claribass.
I have been teaching myself how to repair my clarinets for about 6 months now and it's been a real fun learning experience. I decided to try it myself when I bought a plastic Bundy at a rummage sale for $20.00 and the music shop quoted me $200.00 to fix it up to be in good playing condition. I sent away to the MusicMedic for their clarinet repair kit which included several of the things that I would need and a lot of it has come in very handy, mostly the leak light. My suggestion though from my experience is that you should not begin with your R-13 but get a cheaper instrument to start on. I used my Buffet E-11 to begin on and not knowing anything at all, I damaged it and ended up taking it to the shop to have them fix it. Now I think I could have done it properly, but at the time I didn't realize the damage I could cause. Another suggestion is that if a scew does not come out easily, don't force it because once the slot is ruined, it's next to impossible to get it out and you will need either specialized tools to remove it or you will have to take it into the shop and pay about $40.00 to have it removed which is what happened to me with my Yamaha YCL 34. I think though that if you play the clarinet, it is great fun, also knowing how to repair it yourself and not to have to depend on the shop to fix it up and having to wait (around here a month) to get it back. One thing I learned though is that when the shops charge $200.00 to put a clarinet in perfect working condition, you are getting your money's worth. It is not nearly as easy to do as one might think. It is very time consuming and takes a lot of know how.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2006-01-10 15:08
Just tell the girl at Ferrees what clarinet you want pads for. In my opinion...if you don't know what tools you need you are no where ready to try using leather pads......or removing keys to clean the pad sockets.......on a R13 class horn.
Bob Draznik
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2006-01-12 06:41
Thanks bwilber and BobD.
I am going to sit with someone that will show me how to do it.
BobD, in that case, I'll start with my Vito Eb. But anyway, I've removed keys from all my clarinets (Eb, Bb and bass) many times to do minor repairs and was less nervous than when the repairman do it. I also found problems some of the best repairmen here missed....
I don't think it is so easy but I see no reason why it's not possible.
Also, if anyone here regularly orders from Ferree's Tools please email me to clarnibass@yahoo.com because I have some trouble understing somethings on their websites.
Thanks again.
Post Edited (2006-01-12 07:05)
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