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Re: Rattling Rods

Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2005-12-05 10:52

It sound sound to me.

I don't see why you need a pilot hole. just drill from the other end, and the tube itself will act sufficiently as a pilot. Yes, a pilot hole may ensure that there is equal wall thickness around the resulting bush, but for it to perform that function, it would have to be PERFECTLY central.

I see only three possible problems:

1. Could the chemical composition of the cured epoxy encourage rusting of the steel, more than if the epoxy was not there. It seems to me, from nibbling the stuff (!) that there is more residual active chemical in epoxy than in superglue (which is actually used in human bodies - I use it to instantly deal with annoying cuts in my fingers.)

2. Most plastics absorb moisture from the air and swell. I suspect that set epoxy swells more than set superglue in a humid situation, theoretically increasing the possibility of the pivot jamming.

3. Epoxy seems to have quite a large friction coefficient, perhaps reducing the freedom in the action.

So why don't you use the same approach but with 95/5 (tin/silver) solder. I'm sure this is a far better bearing material, and is very corrosion resistant. I have used it for an F/C and G#/D# pivot, very successfully, extending the length of the tube at the same time.

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Rattling Rods new

tictactux

2005-12-02 22:58