 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: bryris
Date: 2005-10-14 14:25
I just got back my R-13 from a full overhaul. All looks and seems well with it, however, I have alot of trouble getting some of the lower joint notes to speak. The problem is most pronounced in the 2nd register, but does exist in the 1st. If I play first finger Bb and trill down to A, it doesn't like to play. And full fingered E/B is difficult as well. I can get all notes to sound, but I have to really blow air through there fast, this makes piano and pianissimo impossible on these notes.
Any ideas? Is there a quick adjustment I can do?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2005-10-14 14:38
Check the regulation on the long Eb/Bb (xoo|xoo) - sounds like the joints could be slightly out of alignment causing the lower joint ring pad not to close fully - you want the upper joint ring pad to be a fraction lighter than the lower joint ring pad when testing with a feeler gauge using light pressure when closing the lower joint ring keys (cut from the thinnest cigarette papers known to mankind).
Turn the bottom joint very slightly in either direction in relation to the top joint to find the right spot for the long Bb to be in regulation, checking BOTH ring key pads as you do.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: marcia
Date: 2005-10-14 17:25
Is it possible to take it back to the shop?? My fave repair man-Morrie-will not let me take an instrument out of the shop without me playing it and being satisifed.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: bryris
Date: 2005-10-14 17:34
I sent it out to a tech in another state. So, with the delay and cost in shipping, this is likely not an option. The horn is absolutely beautiful, and the keys are quiet. The guy has a great reputation, so I have no doubt it is something very simple. Just need to figure out what it is so that I can get back in business.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Don Berger
Date: 2005-10-14 18:11
It sounds like a leaking Ab/Eb pad to me, possibly a weak spring which "blows open?". But, YES, it should be returned to the repairer for "completion". I often use a short strip of masking tape to seal [temporarily] a suspected tone hole pad for my analysis. Its easy ! Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ron b
Date: 2005-10-14 18:11
Maybe you can find a kind-hearted tech in your area who will "take a look at it", Bryris... 
In any case, it probably left the tech in fine shape. Package handlers can disturb things just by *handling* your package, very little TLC in that buisness. They don't do anything intentionally wrong, they just have to keep things moving and they don't wait for you to play test it after they drop it on your front porch.
Marcia's comment should, in my opinion, be indelibly embossed in all instrumentalist's memory banks... "Take It To Morrie!" , whoever 'Morrie' happens to be in your hometown.
- r![[cool]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/cool.gif) n b -
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Phillips
Date: 2005-10-15 01:21
I just had my clarinet "regulated," and find that the rings are set a little higher than they used to be. I now have to arch my fingers more in order toget the fingertips down onto the the tone holes.
If I get lazy, it squeaks.
Bob Phillips
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2005-10-15 04:50
I agree with Chris P. that the symptoms you are describing sound like a leak in your lower joint ring pad (the topmost pad on the lower joint). A quick alternative test to see if this is where your problem is would be to rotate the lower joint counterclockwise enough to disengage the bridge mechanism completely (about an eighth turn). Now try playing from chalumeau Bb down to E and clarion F down to B. If you no longer have a problem, most likely the bridge key mechanism is not allowing you to depress the lower joint rings enough to seal the pad (even though you may be closing the tone hole) or possibly not even enough to close one or more tone holes (less likely, you'd probably notice that). While there are a number of possible causes, the most common ones are probably that the mechanism is slightly bent or the pad on the lower ring joint is too thin or the cork on the upper arm of the bridge key mechanism (i.e., the one on the part that comes down from the upper joint) is a little too thick. The last possibility I mentioned is probably the most likely and the most easily fixed. (Sand the cork down a very little bit but be careful because if you take too much off, depressing the lower rings may not completely close the ring pad on the upper joint -- in which case you will now have problems with the RT xoo xoo fingering for clarion Bb.)
If the problem does not go away when you rotate the lower joint, there is likely a small pad leak somewhere in the lower joint. My prime suspect would still be that topmost pad. The reason I suspect it is the culprit is that you say when you trill from Bb to A, you have a particular problem. When you depress the middle finger to make the trill, you may be ever-so-slightly reducing the pressure from your first finger causing the pad to rise slightly. I suspect the leak is very slight - perhaps your repair tech has larger (or stronger) fingers than you and the problem didn't even show up when he tested the instrument.
Best regards,
jnk
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: bryris
Date: 2005-10-15 16:57
Is there a way to lower the first ring pad of the lower joint relative to the rings?
I have narrowed it down to two problems, I believe:
1. When I play full fingered B, the actuator that pushes down the C pad doesn't push it down all the way. I believe that the cork that sits atop the actuator (the one underneith the 4 right hand pinky keys, is a tad too thin. The problem is remedied by holding both the B key and C key (on opposite sides)
2. And, with the first ring pad on the lower joint, if I really mash down, or put my index finger director over the pad and use by other two to play Bb to A, F to E, that problem is remedied.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ron b
Date: 2005-10-15 20:08
Now that you've isolated the problem, Bryris, all you need do is fix it
An easy "quick-fix" employed in my neighborhood is to add little pieces of cellophane tape on top of the crow foot cork, if the 'gap' is slight, or thicker tape if required. When you find the required thickness you can then remove the tape and glue and trim a piece of paper, 'phone book, newspaper, manila, cereal box - whatever thickness works. That should work until you visit a tech who'll do a proper job of it. I Do Not recommend bending the crow foot.
Judicious bending of the bridge mechanism to 'regulate' the brille pad is common practice but sanding or adding to the cork is preferred. It could be, too, that the pad is too large for that application; very common mistake. Remedy: change to a smaller pad....
- ron b -
Post Edited (2005-10-15 20:16)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
