 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: fingers
Date: 2000-03-28 19:45
Hello. I've noticed people talking about "cheap" cork grease - and I'm pretty sure that's what I have. I find myself having to apply the stuff every time I assemble it. One stick I have smells like that vapor rub stuff I use when I get a stuffy nose -yuck.
Anyhow, can anyone shout out some quality cork grease brands? My local store seems to only carry the real cheap stuff.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2000-03-28 20:09
Get the C G that has one of the big four maker's names on it. Also check it out for "viscosity", it should definitely not be too soft, nor real hard at room temperatures, use sparingly! Don
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Author: Fred
Date: 2000-03-28 21:14
What is the general feeling about the viscous liquid types of cork lubricants as opposed to the waxy kind?
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Author: Lelia
Date: 2000-03-28 21:30
Fred wrote:
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What is the general feeling about the viscous liquid types of cork lubricants as opposed to the waxy kind?
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For brand-new corks that haven't soaked up any grease yet, I like that pink goo that Selmer sells in a little plastic bottle. That pink stuff makes a sloppy mess on fingers and anything else it touches, but it gets a cork ready to go right now. I notice my repairman uses it on brand-new corks. For old corks that are fairly saturated, I prefer the tube or tub style of grease that's less messy.
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Author: paul
Date: 2000-03-28 21:38
I prefer to use the white grease that comes in the lipstick style tube. It is much less fuss and mess for me.
I also checked my brand new horn into the shop right off the bat to get all of the initial adjustments done, including shaving the corks as necessary for a tight, yet workable fit. Most folks should leave this trick to the pro tech to do for them.
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Author: Lelia
Date: 2000-03-28 21:40
fingers wrote:
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Hello. I've noticed people talking about "cheap" cork grease - and I'm pretty sure that's what I have. I find myself having to apply the stuff every time I assemble it. One stick I have smells like that vapor rub stuff I use when I get a stuffy nose -yuck.
Anyhow, can anyone shout out some quality cork grease brands? My local store seems to only carry the real cheap stuff.
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Has anybody ever found any *expensive* cork grease? AFAIK, it's all cheap. That's just the nature of the stuff: good ol' dinosaur fat, isn't it...? I agree with Don's advice to go with any of the major brands. I don't even pay much attention -- the stuff is cheap enough that I tend to put a stick in most of my cases, since, as you say, the corks need grease often. That's normal, especially in dry weather. I've used LaVoz, Leblanc, Selmer, Conn, Yamaha and a few others with store brand names on them. I marginally prefer the stick type to the tub, because I seem to make less mess on my fingers with the stick (though the grease still needs rubbing in), but I don't really have a brand name preference, as long as the grease is fresh. As soon as it starts to dry out and shrink, I pitch it.
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Author: Gary Van Cott
Date: 2000-03-28 22:28
I really like the Buffet cork grease. It comes in a tube the same as the cheap ones but is more slippery but not as greasy or granular as they are. It is more expensive but worth it.
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Author: Kim
Date: 2000-03-29 00:10
I strongly disagree! The Buffet cork grease is terrible! When I bought my new Buffet instrument, the repariman gave me a Buffet tube and man did it get all over everything. It got on the instrument itself and I didn't like it at all.
IMHO, the best cork grease is Micro because it doesn't come off in globs, as Buffet does, and lasts a long time.
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Author: Keil
Date: 2000-03-29 00:31
my friend uses a tube of Lanolin creme on his clarinet as cork grease seems to work, it looks like a tube of hemorroid cream to me LOL!!
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Author: Kim
Date: 2000-03-29 01:05
My teacher mentioned Lanolin. Do you know how much it costs?
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Author: Willie
Date: 2000-03-29 04:23
I've been told the best cork grease is the old fashioned stuff made from bees wax and lard. Most of the new stuff on the market is petroleum based and really isn't that good for wood clarinets. However, try to find the good stuff. One oldtimer I talked to said you can special order it from N.Y., but I have yet to find any. Can any body elaborate on this?
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Author: Lelia
Date: 2000-03-29 11:50
Kim wrote:
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My teacher mentioned Lanolin. Do you know how much it costs?
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Lots of luck in finding it for sale. I've heard it's cheap, but it may be one of those archaic items for which there's not a lot of customer demand today. If anybody knows a source in the Washington, D. C. area, please let me know! I don't want it for cork grease, but the guy who made my bodhran said pure lanolin was the best thing to condition the goatskin drum head. He said to buy lanolin at the drug store, but none of the drug stores around me sell it.
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Author: michael
Date: 2000-03-29 11:51
Lelia wrote:
Has anybody ever found any *expensive* cork grease? AFAIK, it's all cheap.
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I thought cork grease was all the same until I bought
a generic brand. I thought it was terrible; very "watery" and not very greasy. My best results have been with Selmer Cork Grease and Yamaha Cork Grease.
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Author: 'nifer
Date: 2000-03-29 12:33
I use the leblanc slide ease.. it is in a little squirty sort of tube.. it works very well, but is a bit difficult to initially apply.. but i have been using the same tube for almost a year and a half now.. even after using it on a new bass clarinet! ;-) it also is really cheap.. just look for slide grease.. it works best for me!
'nifer
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2000-03-29 13:58
My 2 cents - Cork "grease" may be a little mundane to some but I have made quite a study of various types and formulations. True cork is of course a wood product and as such should not, in my opinion, be exposed to the many forms of petroleum products sold in "chap stick" containers out there in todays market. I guess that we all have noticed that after time the cork becomes flat, dark and shiny after using these petroleum based products and has lost almost all of the compressability and resilience for which it was intended - to make an airtight seal between the tenons. The grease is actually making the seal and the cork tends to deteriorate quicker - split, peel, flake off faster with petroleum based products. Taking a cue from a trip to Italy and viewing amphora (pots) that still contained natural oil, sealed with bee's wax covering cork that were in perfect condition after 1500 years - a natural based "cork treatment" containing natural oils, antioxidants, and bees wax has kept my cork fresh looking, compressible, and easy to join the tenons now for several (more than 3) years now. Properly forumulated it is easy to apply, not sticky, messy or otherwise onerous - let you know later whether it keeps the cork in perfect condition for 1500 years!
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2000-03-29 14:49
I have been under the impression that the best greases are lanolin [sheep tallow] at least in part, and wasn't aware that perhaps this fairly-expensive lanolin had been blended down with [likely] petroleum waxes. Lanolin used to be available [from Squibb et al] in tube form as a cosmetic skin-treating "lubricant" in drug stores. My wife liked it! I'll see if I can find out more re: C G formulations. I still recommend buying only the best, usually the most costly. Don
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2000-03-29 15:26
Just another thought - besides saturating the cork with these petroleum based products (see my previous post) it also coats and saturates (eventually) the wood (if you have wood) on the other side of the tenon cup and bell. This tends to clog the pores and fine structure of the wood and does not allow the wood to maintain an adequate moisture content and controlled flux (moisture flow in and out) which can lead to cracking or splitting the wood at the tenon end or cup. My view, with a good deal of research on wood structure and preservation, indicates that natural wood (including cork which is wood) treatments (natural oils containing antioxidants and stabilizers) preserve the moisture balance and tonal qualities of the wood and the compressability and resilience of the cork. A good many instruments have been abused for years (with petroleum products) with no obvious damage but others may not fare as well (cracks, air leaks, and premature cork replacement).
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Author: paul
Date: 2000-03-29 15:29
I can see where using all natural components, even in cork grease can help keep the clarinet's corks in good shape for years and years. I assume I can go to a drugstore and buy Vitaman E capsules off the shelf. I can puncture a capsule or two and have enough Vitaman E to work up a batch of grease easy enough. The question is where are some of the common places (drugstore, chain grocery store, etc.) can folks like me fetch all natural lanolin and beeswax? How do you prepare this stuff to make an effective grease? (Do you have to cook it? Do you have to prepare it only at room temperature?) What's the best way to store it once it's prepared? Finally, if a fairly young set of original corks (4 year old horn) have been greased with the petroleum stuff, is there still room for response from the natural grease, or have the pores been too saturated by now to even try?
Mark C (Webmaster) may not like my next idea, but at least it's worth trying out on the crowd. What if one of us more enterprising folks decided to cook up an all natural cork grease and sell it to fellow clarinet players? It may not pay a huge sum, but it would be a nice service to offer.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2000-03-29 15:34
In "Clarinet" by Jack Brymer, page 129, he states that the "super-cork-grease" is a blend of tallow and petroleum wax, of a desireable "greasiness". I haven't found other ref's yet! Don
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 2000-03-29 16:12
L. Omar Henderson wrote:
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My view, with a good deal of research on wood structure and preservation, indicates that natural wood (including cork which is wood) treatments (natural oils containing antioxidants and stabilizers) preserve the moisture balance and tonal qualities of the wood and the compressability and resilience of the cork.
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Could you publish your research, please? I've heard anecdotal evidence, but to my knowledge no one had done any real research yet.
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2000-03-29 16:13
Yes - there will be an all natural group of products on the market soon (no Mark I'm not selling anything here on BB). I would leave the formulations to professional chemists and not try to mix the ingredients on the family stove. I love to make my own stuff too but certain things are best left to labs which have done the testing to make sure that the product performs well, is stable to oxidation and temperature, and will not harm your valuable instrument.
A mixture of natural waxes, oils, antioxidants, and stabilizers can be formulated into a solid stick in the "lip balm format" or mini-tubs (if you perfer to rub it on yourself) which has the look and "feel" of the old stuff but is much kinder to your cork and wood. Old cork grease "gunk" can easily be removed with a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl (drug store brand) alcohol and water. I have "revived" old cork treated for 5 plus years and abused with petroleum based grease and restored it to "new" looking, supple feeling, cork with the above cleaning and retreatment with a natural based cork treatment. I am overwhelmed at the number of responses to the cork grease dilemma - must be on all of our minds at one time or another.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2000-03-29 17:00
Very interesting approach to new products L O H , however I dont regard petroleum products [fractions] as un-natural. Even petro-chemicals, such as polyolefins, are not far different from those of ancient origin! Ain't chemistry great!! Don
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Author: Ken Shaw
Date: 2000-03-29 17:21
A quick web search turned up sources for lanolin:
<A HREF=http://www.the-sage.com/catalog/fullcat.html>The Sage<A> sells in 4 oz. containers for around $5.
<A HREF+http://www.sirius.com/~bry_lab/PROD01.HTM>Bryant Lab Common Chemicals by Mail Order<A> sells by the pound for $17.50.
Pure lanolin is **very** slippery and a bit too thin for use as cork grease. Also, the stuff I've come across has a distinct odor. It soaks into your skin, so it's nearly impossible to wash off your hands, and forget about getting it out of fabrics. Hydrogenation will thicken it and might make it less liable to turn rancid. Some beeswax might also help.
I got a tub of "premium" cork grease from Ralph Morgan at the Columbus workshop a couple of years ago and am still using it. It lasts well, and it's easy to apply (a little thinner than the stuff in tubes). The only problem is that if I put on too much, the joint gets too slippery and can come apart unexpectedly. Presumably you can get it by mail order, though the cost of shipping would be as much as the cost of the item.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Ken Shaw
Date: 2000-03-29 17:24
Sorry - one of the links didn't "take" -- it's <A HREF=http://www.sirius.com/~bry_lab/PROD01.HTM>Bryant Lab Common Chemicals by Mail Order<A>
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2000-03-29 17:41
Don is right (at least most of the time) - I hope that we do not get too technical and turn everyone off - but in my research the size of the molecules (due to chain elongation and branching)in order to make them viscous is large enough to clog the spaces between the cellulose fibers and radial parenchyma in the wood. Radial hydrostatic pressure in clogged pores can build up to a couple thousand pounds per square inch. Grenadilla wood is really tough but this much pressure can indeed increase the possiblity of wood fiber failure and cracking. The proper moisture content is also necessary for the resonant tonal qualities of the wood (another topic too lenghty to discuss here today). A lot of the good tips on wood preservation that I have gotten have been from museum restoration specialists and also the caretakers of wooden artifacts in 14th, 15th, and 16th, century churches (every one else is marveling at the rose stained glass windows and I am trying to find the janitor). At least we can see that the treatments have preserved fine wood for at least 500 years in non - temperature and humidity controlled conditions (for at least the last 450 years anyway).
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Author: Roger
Date: 2000-03-29 17:50
I have had several oboe players recommend Vasolene in lieu of cork grease
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Author: BAC
Date: 2000-03-29 18:51
I use chapstick, the stuff for your lips and apply every two or three days. No mess, no fuss. Since I'm fairly new to all this - what would be the disadvantages of using chapstick?
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Author: James
Date: 2000-03-29 19:02
Good gosh! This is some kind of a discussion about cork grease. I guess I better put my two cents in so I am not the only one saying anything. I like Selmer and Buffet myself. The only thing that I try to make sure my students do is not put too much on so that it gunks up the wood around the corks and don't put too little so that the cork tears up from being dry when they put the clarinet together.
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2000-03-29 19:25
I love it! This kind of discussion makes this bulletin board very addictive and informative.
RE: Chapstick - the Cetyl Alcohol listed on my chap stick tube is a "bad player" long term for wood or cork fibers because it (without going into the chemistry) destroys the bonding between the fibers and weakens the structure of wood over time. Depending on the brand, etc. it may contain lanolin (already discussed as probably helpful), and potentially some Vitamin E which is a good antioxidant. In mine there is 44% petrolalum (like Vasaleine) which has an average molecular size large enough to clog the pores of the cork. It should work just fine for a couple of years but then plan on recorking.
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Author: Bob
Date: 2000-03-29 20:14
Man, what a discussion. I agree with James who wanted to put his 2 cents in - so do I! I've played for 30 plus years and in the past just stuck on whatever kind of cork grease I could get my hands on. Each of them did the job, some more than others. Some was so hard to get out of the tub-I prefer not to use that kind - got more inside my fingernails trying to get the stuff out than I did on the cork! Some was so slick my tenons came apart during play. So I tried the sticky reddish-pink kind that comes in a tube like slide oil, and that got all over my keys as I couldn't wash it off my hands. Forget that! Guess I'll just stick to the kind that comes in the chap stick type tube - preferably a name brand. Store brands tend to be too thin and again, make a mess of you horn.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2000-03-29 20:15
Well said on everything, L O H, isn't there menthol also in the chap stick? It might cover up other odors! Don
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Author: Fred
Date: 2000-03-29 20:42
In warm climates, it pays to avoid solid products that tend to liquify or transition at temperatures you are likely to encounter. It's not that the stuff applied to the cork will be a problem, but the container you had in your case can become the cause of vile language (or at least strained self-control) when it leaks all over the case interior.
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Author: C. Hogue
Date: 2000-03-29 20:50
So ... what makes old cork grease stinky? I got a tube along with a used clarinet recently. Smelled just like the 20-year old tub of cork grease mouldering in my accessories box (the fresh stuff is in the case). I pitched both. Does cork grease go rancid?
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Author: Peter
Date: 2000-03-30 03:26
This is the most replies to a question I have ever seen, so I may as well put my 2 cents worth in. Years ago after hearing from some very fine players what they did, I took some of the grease off the Sunday Roast, and poured it into little containers. That was my cork grease for quite awhile!
I thought at the time it worked well. But of course I'm also a guy that baked useless reeds in the oven on a cookie sheet at 250 for 20 minutes. I thought that worked well too.
Peter
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Author: Willie
Date: 2000-03-30 03:29
Wow, this a good one! As for my corks, I'm not that much concerned as they are cheap and easy (I do my own) to replace. What I AM concerned with is those old tenons and sockets. In my 20+ years in the Coast Guard I've seen wooden rifle stocks and various wooden parts of boats suffering from rot where there was exposure to petroleum based grease and oil. Ironicly an old rum runner boat I got to see up in Maine had good solid wood all over and in the bilges. The owner stated his granpa only used denatured caster bean oil for lubricant because of the hard winters. Those Packard V12s still sounded good too!
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Author: Roger
Date: 2000-03-30 11:46
I have a small flat round metal bin of micro cork grease that was purchased prior to 1965. It is still good and does not smell. I use it sparingly for first grease jobs to new corks. I doubt you can buy anything like it today.
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 2000-03-30 11:53
Willie wrote:
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Ironicly an old rum runner boat I got to see up in Maine had good solid wood all over and in the bilges. The owner stated his granpa only used denatured caster bean oil for lubricant because of the hard winters. Those Packard V12s still sounded good too!
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Kept them ole' Packards (and anyone around the engine) "running quite regular" I'll bet!
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Author: Lelia
Date: 2000-03-31 00:01
Peter wrote:
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This is the most replies to a question I have ever seen, so I may as well put my 2 cents worth in. Years ago after hearing from some very fine players what they did, I took some of the grease off the Sunday Roast, and poured it into little containers. That was my cork grease for quite awhile!
I thought at the time it worked well. But of course I'm also a guy that baked useless reeds in the oven on a cookie sheet at 250 for 20 minutes. I thought that worked well too.
Peter
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Interesting -- C. Hogue asked what makes cork grease rancid. If it's an animal fat grease, without preservatives, it will go bad eventually. Rancid cork grease is one of the components of that intricate perfume of neglected old clarinet cases. Add a hint of mildew, a bouquet of mold and the dust of a few vintage insect corpses, et voila', Eau de Case-Munge du Clarinet. That's probably one reason why the mineral oils became popular (although if the old theory on where petrochemicals come from is correct, then they contain preserved dinosaur fat, among other things). Lanolin is rendered sheep fat. If that Sunday roast was leg of lamb or mutton, then you made yourself some nice lanolin cork grease!
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Author: paul
Date: 2000-03-31 17:39
Now, the Chemical Engineers in the audience may pounce on this one, but I have to try a whack at what makes up the petroleum based cork grease. From what I can tell, it's just plain old paraffin wax. No, it isn't dinosaur fat (at least not anymore ). Rather, it's a set of very long and relatively heavy hydrocarbon molecules.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2000-03-31 17:45
Wonderful comments Lelia, [Vunderbahr], a record number of posts, Mark?. Yes, crude oil has many-many chemical compositions in it, principally C and H of course, but O,S,N, metals, nearly the entire Periodic Table of Elements!, from, yes, dinasour! fat, the earth and atmosphere. It occurred to me some time ago, that ,except for destruction of elements by atomic or nuclear means, we merely keep using the same elements and compounds over and over again that were formed shortly after the BIG BANG. Don
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 2000-03-31 18:21
Don Berger wrote:
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It occurred to me some time ago, that ,except for destruction
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[and creation]
---
of elements by atomic or nuclear means, ...
---
Nuclear reactions aren't always destructive ...
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Author: Laur
Date: 2000-03-31 19:05
Hey -
I don't use cork grease - Is that like majorly bad ? I mean, yes .. when I clean and bore oil my clarinet, i will put a tiny tab on the corks, but beyond that - none..
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Author: Dee
Date: 2000-03-31 20:19
Laur wrote:
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Hey -
I don't use cork grease - Is that like majorly bad ? I mean, yes .. when I clean and bore oil my clarinet, i will put a tiny tab on the corks, but beyond that - none..
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Well it depends. Cork grease is intended to make it easier to put the clarinet together. If the joints go together easily, then you don't need it. If you find yourself using a lot of force, then you should grease the corks so that you don't end up breaking something.
I certainly don't use cork grease every time as it is unnecessary and would just lead to build ups. But every now and then the cork will either get a little dried out so it won't slide together or it will swell so that it is a little larger than normal. Either way, a little will facilitate putting it together and allow you to take it apart when you are done.
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Author: Laur
Date: 2000-03-31 20:39
Yes, it's okay, but now my barrel rocks back and forth - It's soo annoying - any advice ?!
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Author: michael
Date: 2000-04-01 04:59
Dee wrote:
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I certainly don't use cork grease every time as it is unnecessary and would just lead to build ups. But every now and then the cork will either get a little dried out so it won't slide together or it will swell so that it is a little larger than normal. Either way, a little will facilitate putting it together and allow you to take it apart when you are done.
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My Selmer came with a little orange strip of paper that says
"Please apply cork grease prior to each assembly." I thought it seemed like a lot, but that's what I've been doing. Michael
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Author: beejay
Date: 2000-04-01 21:46
Putting reeds in the oven? Peter exaggerates. What's wrong with a hair dryer?
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Author: beejay
Date: 2000-04-05 21:46
Hasn't anyone got anything more to say about cork grease?
We could get this one up to 50.
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Author: michael
Date: 2000-04-05 23:10
beejay wrote:
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Hasn't anyone got anything more to say about cork grease?
We could get this one up to 50.
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I guess we could discuss which cork grease tastes the best. Michael
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Author: Dee
Date: 2000-04-06 02:49
michael wrote:
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beejay wrote:
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Hasn't anyone got anything more to say about cork grease?
We could get this one up to 50.
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I guess we could discuss which cork grease tastes the best. Michael
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Taste could be very important. Afterall in a pinch, you can use cork grease on your chapped lips if out of Chap Stick.
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Author: michael
Date: 2000-04-06 03:38
Dee wrote:
Taste could be very important. Afterall in a pinch, you can use cork grease on your chapped lips if out of Chap Stick.
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LOL! Thank you, Dee, for showing us that we can indeed talk about the taste of cork grease. Okay, Yamaha and Selmer ought to start testing out different flavors.
(Did we hit 50 on the counter?) [if I hadn't practiced tonight I'd feel real guilty for participating in this thread on grease.] Michael
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Author: aalv2003
Date: 2012-09-28 04:24
Hi. Im new in the forum. Long time no play clarinet (amateur) I recently buy a clarinet and repair it. All new corks etc.
Im experimenting with SILICONE GREASE, totally inert grease, (same I use to lubricate my scuba diving regulators, because it not affect rubber)
I m not very experienced to say now if it works, but after several applies on the cork it looks like new, and the lubrication works very well during assembling and disassembling.
If in some moment the clarinet melts down or explode or anything (before my neighbors shoot me during a playing) I will advise here.
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2012-09-30 16:20
I assume because of rules against using this site to sell products, the Doctor has said nothing about his own products. I definitely suggest checking his web site for "the good stuff".
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Author: soybean
Date: 2012-10-01 18:42
Aalv2003; I would be very careful with any silicone grease that might come into contact with the wood on your clarinet. I play guitar too and a guitar builder told me that silicone can bind with wood down to the molecular level.
As far as cork grease goes, the best one I ever used is called Collins' Cork Grease. It is hand made and uses beeswax, aloe vera and vitamin E oil. Even the fragrance oil is of the highest standard. They used to sell it in tubes but it now seems to only be available in small jars.
~Dan
(Leblanc Bliss, Buffet R13 key of A, Yamaha 250 Bb)
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Author: aalv2003
Date: 2012-10-01 19:31
Hi Soybean.
Thank you for your reply. Im using these silicone grease in a ebonite clarinet, but I have another 2 wood clarinets then I never will use silicone on them.
I love recipes, specially old ones, I have a lot of ancient substances and apotecary stuff then I will experiment with the proportions to make these one you give me.
I have 2 recipes, one uses beeswax and canola oil, and the other lard and beeswax.
Best regards.
Alberto.
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Author: soybean
Date: 2012-10-01 20:02
quote; "I'm using these silicone grease in a ebonite clarinet, but I have another 2 wood clarinets then I never will use silicone on them." Oh, that should be fine on an ebonite clarinet.
By the way, I have been experimenting with silicone lubricant to prevent sticky pads, but that is for another thread.
~Dan
(Leblanc Bliss, Buffet R13 key of A, Yamaha 250 Bb)
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Author: aalv2003
Date: 2012-10-01 20:31
Yes, also Im experimenting the silicone to water proofing some leather pads Im making. Using napa (cow) and cabretilla (sheep) skin.
Alberto.
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Author: gwie
Date: 2012-10-03 09:26
I've been using the cork grease by Dr. Henderson ("The Doctor's Products) ever since he first put it on the market.
I've bought dozens of tubes, given away a bunch to colleagues and students, and I haven't found anything quite as good.
Doc, please get Amazon.com to stock a couple thousand of your cork grease tubes so all of us on Prime can get it shipped to us for almost free.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2012-10-19 10:56
I'm amazed that so many really low quality greases have been promoted in this thread.
Some cake up really badly, over-crushing the cork and eventually making the joints more DIFFICULT to put together.
Some damage the cork such that it loses its resilience, as Omar wrote.
Some make the cork brittle.
Some soften the glue that holds the cork on.
Most are horribly slimy on the fingers.
And regarding "cheap": Yes pretty much all of them are a very cheap product. Hence the seller can easily make good profits. (And I guess that is why most sellers sell only the cheap and IMO rubbishy ones.)
The excellent ones are not cheap products, even bought in bulk.
IMO they are:
1. Alisyn, made by Aerospace Lubricants Incorporated, and you can buy it direct from them. I think Ferrees has it too. But the container is rather unsatisfactory. (This stuff is not sticky - more like moisturiser on the fingers - and based on a totally synthetic grease.)
2. Doctors Products' "Doctors Slick"
3. Doctors Products' "Syntec". (Rather similar to 1, but stickier.)
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Author: LJBraaten
Date: 2012-10-19 14:40
I've switched to the doctors products for my cork grease, but I have a friend who plays oboe who has been using beeswax chapstick (Burts Bees brand) for years.
Laurie
Laurie (he/him)
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Author: The Doctor ★2017
Date: 2012-10-20 03:45
(Disclaimer - I make and sell an all natural plant oil and natural wax derived cork grease and supply an aeorospace lubricant synthetic grease for cork)
I believe that the most important thought to consider is that cork is a wood product and "cork grease" should both be a lubricant and a preservative for wood.
The special structure of cork cells (a cube shape with flexible cell walls) allows them to be compressed and then naturally expand and return to original shape. This property accomplishes the purpose of making an airtight and firm seal between instrument parts. The goal is to keep the cell walls of the cork elastic and functional as well as lubrication.
Research has proven that petroleum based products will weaken the cell walls of the cork cells over time and their compression and expansion will fail as the cell walls deteriorate and may loosen the glue holding the cork to the tenon. Other animal based greases may lubricate but will not preserve or sustain corks function and usually have undesirable side effects. The ideal cork grease will lubricate and also preserve the cork.
I respect innovation and some home formulations but a great deal of research and development has been done to perfect formulations that lubricate well, do not accumulate or are smelly or sticky, and preserve the cell wall structure of cork. Chapstick petroleum based products or other products designed to keep lips from becoming dried out or chapped should be used for these purposes and not for cork on woodwind instruments. Cork wood should be preserved as wood and not assaulted using products not meant for wood or are at least neutral to cork function as a lubricant. Some synthetic grease will lubricate and not harm cork but do not have preservative properties. Caveat emptor.
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
www.chedevillemp.com
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Author: mmoran1997
Date: 2012-10-20 20:51
Remember to be careful with cork grease, do not apply to much! I accidentally applied to much and my whole cork fell off! Also I use the stick kind of cork grease, however, I would use the lip balm kind so that you can reach the places that the stick kind can not.
The Woodwind Kid,
Mason Moran
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2012-10-20 23:00
Personally I use (and recommend to my customers) the Doctor's product but always in the little tub form rather than the "lipstick" style since applying as a lipstick usually results in too much grease being applied and usually in the wrong places.
Applying from the tub using fingers to work just a small amount of the grease vigorously into the cork results in just a very thin film being applied all over the cork surface.
I always tell the younger players they should feel their finger tips getting warm as they apply the grease which helps work the grease in.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2012-10-21 04:30
>> but always in the little tub form rather than the "lipstick" style <<
Pretty much everyone I know who use the lipstick tube cork greae put the correct amount and then smear it on the cork with their fingers. Using a tube or a tub would make no difference. IMO the tube is easier to use for most people and keep in the case.
Post Edited (2012-10-21 04:35)
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2012-10-22 11:28
<<Remember to be careful with cork grease, do not apply to much! I accidentally applied to much and my whole cork fell off! >>
If a decent glue is used for the cork, and a decent cork grease is used, the latter will never interfere with the former.
It so happens that many manufacturers, and some techs, use glue that really is substandard.
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Author: traceywooo
Date: 2012-10-22 21:03
My experience with cork grease is limited, but I am a huge supporter of the Doctor's products.
I have heard La Tromba is really nice though. Been thinking about buying it just to try it out. What are you guys' opinions on it?
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2012-10-23 06:44
La Tromba is my stock cork grease (being a local product, it's the common stuff in stores here).
I not only use it for corks but also for brass instrument slides and the occasional creaky hinge on large instruments' keywork.
Never had a cork fail, and my alto recorder is about 35 years old now.
--
Ben
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The Clarinet Pages
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