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 remodeling a case
Author: elmo lewis 
Date:   2005-09-24 18:57

I have an old Buffet double attache case that I would like to re-configure to hold an an eefer. ¿Does anyone have any tips on how to go about taking apart the case?

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2005-09-25 09:48

The tray should come out (with a bit of persuasion) leaving an empty shell, and a new tray can be made from high density polysomething-or-other foam - that's the heavy-duty foam (usually black) that can be cut using bandsaw or a hot soldering iron with a specially shaped bit to make the compartments, then covered with thin velvet. Don't use chamois or any natural leather linings as these will react in contact with the clarinets.

And don't use anything (glue etc.) that gives off sulphur fumes as these will make the silver tarnish ultra quick.

There should be enough room to fit all three if the layout is done well, but personally I'm not in favour of cases that keep the A and Bb both in two halves - that's the mouthpiece, barrel and top joint together, and then the bottom joint and bell still attached as this can make the tenon corks shrink, or the joints stick.

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: elmo lewis 
Date:   2005-10-02 16:25

Can someone recommend what kind or which brand of glue to use?

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: tictactux 2017
Date:   2005-10-02 17:07

> Can someone recommend what kind or which brand of glue to use?

For nearly everything that doesn't literally cry for cyanoacrylate I use standard plain old white glue (PVA, polyvinylacetate). They are not toxic, emit no fumes and can be cleaned with warm water. I even glued the current set of pads with it. It stays "chewy", ie a tiny bit elastic and is colour neutral. As it takes about five minutes to get really sticky, you have plenty of time to rearrange things. And it's unbeatably cheap.

--
Ben

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2005-10-02 18:46

I used PVA glue for sticking the fabric lining to the tray (spread thinly and evenly so it doesn't go through the fabric) and hot glue sticks (probably best used with a hot glue gun) to stick the tray back into the case with, and this all works well.

But do leave the case open for several days to let the PVA dry completely before using - I used my case while the PVA was still damp and it made the wood on the bell that was in contact with the wet glue go funny (the grain on the back had raised slightly), but has since dried out leaving the affected area on the bell nice and smooth again.

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: hans 
Date:   2005-10-02 19:29

I have often had hot melt glue fail to hold after a year or two - even the "heavy duty" products - and wondered if silicone might be a more reliable alternative.
Does anyone know if silicone contains sulphur or other corrosive components (besides the acetic acid which would presumably evaporate during curing)?

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: ghuba 
Date:   2005-10-02 19:49

Author: Chris P (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: 2005-09-25 09:48

Don't use chamois or any natural leather linings as these will react in contact with the clarinets.

----------

Chris, can you clarify what happens with natural leather linings? Selmer Signature cases in the past few years have been a natural leather -- suede or deerskin I believe. George



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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: tictactux 2017
Date:   2005-10-02 20:22

>>>>
I have often had hot melt glue fail to hold after a year or two - even the "heavy duty" products - and wondered if silicone might be a more reliable alternative.
<<<<

The problem with hot melt glue is that it "dries" before it can be absorbed by the material. It's like a piece of chewing gum. And it will let go sooner or later, especially when the parts "work" with a different coefficient than the glue pad.
For porous material you should always use a glue that can be absorbed. This results in an immensely bigger surface to stick together.

--
Ben

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2005-10-02 21:10

ghuba,

I saw a pair of Jacques Albert clarinets in a home-made double case, the entire inside was lined with chamois, and that made the keys (unplated nickel silver) go green and sticky, and discoloured the wood that was in contact with it. Not a pretty sight.

Some leather covered cases can even cause silver plated instruments to tarnish when inside the case, depending on the tanning process the leather has been subject to it can have a high sulphur content that turns silver black very quickly.

I haven't seen a Signature case close enough to see if the leather covering they use is waterproofed with plastic, I know the shell is plastic but would have thought the inside would be lined with velvet - I'll just go and grab my promotional leaflet on these to see.

Ok, so it only shows the closed cases, and all that's mentioned is:

"Traditional case: for an excellent protection of the set or single clarinet, the "Signature" shaped case is built with a rigid high protection ABS covered with fine black leather."

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2005-10-02 21:16)

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: tictactux 2017
Date:   2005-10-02 21:16

How'bout alcantara instead of leather? It's used in the jewelry industry so I'd assume it's tarnish-proof.

--
Ben

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2005-10-02 21:21

Isn't that 'ultrasuede' - an artifical/man-made suede?

I use that on open standing keys with good results, and Fox use exactly the same on their bassoons - in fact, the stuff I use is from Fox.

As for the chamois, that was the same cheap chamois you'd use to clean your car with, unless you use a sponge or just take it through a car wash.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2005-10-02 21:23)

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: tictactux 2017
Date:   2005-10-02 21:32

> Isn't that 'ultrasuede' - an artifical/man-made suede?

It is.

With these "Tee-Emm" brands you never know who owns whom and who merely imports whom. "Genericized" brand names (like Walkman for portable cassette players) vary from country to country. Here (.ch) we usually say Alcantara.

--
Ben

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2005-10-02 21:38

I only know what Alcantara is as some Citroen XM models offered their upholstery in partial leather/Alcantara - which looked like a soft suede.

Incidentally, did you know they call nickel silver 'Alpacca' in Italy? And I thought that was a South American Llama-type animal!

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: tictactux 2017
Date:   2005-10-02 21:45

> Incidentally, did you know they call nickel silver 'Alpacca' in Italy?

Not only there: http://pages.zoom.co.uk/leveridge/nickel1.html

> And I thought that was a South American Llama-type animal!

Reminds me of those itchy pullovers...<mechanically scratches back>

--
Ben

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 Re: remodeling a case
Author: Katrina 
Date:   2005-10-03 02:49

> And I thought that was a South American Llama-type animal!

Reminds me of those itchy pullovers...<mechanically scratches back>

Ahhh...but then you've never worn an alpaca sweater, have ya??

If it's spun correctly and knitted well, alpaca (correct spelling for the animal) is really really soft and silky!

*Now back to your regularly-scheduled clarinet topics*

Katrina
(who knits and spins her own yarn when she has time)

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