 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Steve Epstein
Date: 2005-04-24 23:22
I realize that there have been threads on reed adjusting, but I'm wondering what people would recommend as the simplest method of making a V-12 #3 that's too hard be able to play easier right during a gig, between tunes. I was never taught how to adjust reeds, nor am I one who goes through the box, selects, rotates, etc, because I feel I'm not playing enough or playing enough serious venues to warrant all that. But these Vandoren reeds are expensive, you know, and over the years I've accumulated a bunch of too hard 3's and 3.5's, and too soft 2.5's. So actually, I wouldn't have to adjust all those right on a gig, but would have them to practice on. Also, I assume it's easier to make a too hard reed softer rather than vice-versa?
Thanks for your help.
Steve Epstein
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Author: RosewoodClarinet
Date: 2005-04-25 00:56
Basically, I adjust slightly hard reeds (not too hard) to make it respond easier. I would not work on too soft reeds.
RosewoodClarinet
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Author: msloss
Date: 2005-04-25 02:16
Well, for starters I would never walk into a gig with reeds that are too hard, regardless of how much I paid. Audiences aren't paying us to struggle with our reed selection. Second, if the environment is unpredictable or I can't try reeds before things get going, I bring a range so I'm covered.
As David Blumberg said on another thread, something like Vandoren's abrasive glass is a good thing to have to adjust a reed on the fly. In an absolute crisis, and I mean this with all sincerity, scrape the back of the reed along the edge of your music stand. It is crude, but in a pinch will allow you to keep going.
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Author: DavidBlumberg
Date: 2005-04-25 02:54
The easiest reed adjusting you can do during a gig is to position the reed on the mouthpiece slightly (and I do mean slightly!!!) higher or lower and or position it a little to the right or left off center at the tip.
Higher will make the reed feel harder and lower will soften it.
But don't do it much and be sure that you know the reed ahead of time - do that during the warmup. Once performing, all you should do is to change the reed if needed.
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Author: Steve Epstein
Date: 2005-04-25 04:42
Thanks for all your help. I found the thread for the Vandoren Glass Reed Resurfacer, and will get that.
Steve Epstein
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Author: mkybrain
Date: 2005-04-25 12:55
However, that tool is comepletely useless if you don't know how to diagnose what is wrong with it and then what to do to fix that.
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Author: DavidBlumberg
Date: 2005-04-25 13:08
I use the Vandoren reed resurfacer to help with a warped reed and the glass as a base for the Ridenour system which I find to be superior.
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Author: Steve Epstein
Date: 2005-04-25 14:13
mkybrain wrote:
"However, that tool is comepletely useless if you don't know how to diagnose what is wrong with it and then what to do to fix that."
Ok, help me. I'm assuming that since they're Vandorens, some reeds of the same strength are harder than others. What exactly do I have to know?
Thanks again.
Steve Epstein
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Author: BobD
Date: 2005-04-25 15:01
First of all....the comment in the first post to yours is the real answer. You don't go into a gig...or even a rehearsal, for that matter....using a reed that needs adjusting. However: You need a small folding knife,hopefully hollow ground....like the knives sold for oboe players. Or locate a small "penknife" like a Buck 425+ Don't get a cheap knife as it will just frustrate you. An alternative is a straight edge razor or single edge razor blades.......but you'll cut yourself. If you are really careful you can scrape the edges of the reed with it still on the mouthpiece which is what you would do on a gig. Scrape lightly towards each edge of the reed about a half inch back from the tip.....don't scrape anywhere but on the edges. Scrape some material away and try playing. Repeat as necessary. Of course all this fooling around will distract everyone. All of this adjusting should be done elsewhere with the reed off of the mouthpiece.
Bob Draznik
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Author: GBK
Date: 2005-04-25 20:53
Don't forget, most Vandoren reeds are harder on the left side than the right.
Adjust accordingly, or if necessary...
I also carry the Vandoren reed resurfacer with me at all times. Any reed which becomes balky, may benefit from a re-flattening of the back with one or two quick passes. Be careful to only flatten the back - do not let the resurfacer go all the way to the tip...GBK
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Author: mkybrain
Date: 2005-04-25 22:18
Well there has been good advice given here, and there is a ton of info given in the past. Use the search function. Also there, as it has been said a million times before, are a lot of good books/guides on reeds and how to care for them and adjust them. These books and opinions on them can also be found by using, once again, the search function.
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2005-04-25 22:22
I am a big fan of the ATG method of adjusting reeds. It's very basic (a block that has two sides, to which you attach two different thicknesses of sandpaper), but more than that, it comes with a piece of glass, and most importantly, a book and dvd/video of how to adjust reeds. I found it very interesting and it definitely makes sense.
You don't HAVE to continue using the block given, and can switch to reed rush, sandpaper wrapped around your finger, or anything else you want, but the book, it's techniques, and the dvd which shows the adjusting act in action (as well as the results in realtime video), is IMO worth the money.
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: BlockEyeDan
Date: 2005-04-25 23:08
GBK:
When you say that Vandorens are harder on the left side, I take it that you mean 'left' when looking at the reed on your mouthpiece with the tip pointing up?
Sorry for what is probably a painfully obvious question.....
Thanks,
Dan
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Author: GBK
Date: 2005-04-26 14:43
BlockEyeDan wrote:
> GBK:
>
> When you say that Vandorens are harder on the left side, I take
> it that you mean 'left' when looking at the reed on your
> mouthpiece with the tip pointing up?
Yes...GBK
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Author: 82Zfan
Date: 2005-04-26 15:52
When adjusting reeds on the fly is sandpaper or a blade more effective- or does it not matter?
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Author: Carol Dutcher
Date: 2005-04-26 15:55
I use a razor blade (one-sided) and carry one in my clarinet case wrapped in a little bit of heavy paper. I have never cut myself. If I need to work on a reed I can put the reed on something handy like a book and take a couple of swipes. This procedure is the only one I have ever used and it always works for me. If I'm at home, I put the reed on a piece of glass when I used the razor blade.
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2005-04-26 16:25
I use a Milwaukee Super Sawzall, a 1/2-hp grinding wheel, and an oxyacetylene torch to do coarse adjustment on my reed, followed by fine adjusting with a 1.5 kW ruby laser and a moderately priced CNC machine. If the reed continues to play poorly at that point, I discard it and put the Legere on.
Your mileage may vary, void where prohibited, read the warning labels, professional drivers only on a closed course, some users may experience side effects including dizziness, vomiting, etc., etc., etc.
If all else fails, read Kal Opperman's "Making and Adjusting Single Reeds" and DO WHAT IT SAYS. Thank you.
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Author: Steve Epstein
Date: 2005-04-26 16:43
David Spiegelthal wrote:
> If the reed continues to play
> poorly at that point, I discard it and put the Legere on.
I detect this bit of seriousness (besides the Opperman book recommendation) in your post. I take it it may be a good idea to have a plastic reed for emergencies?
If I'm comfortable with a V-12 #3, what strength Legere would you recommend?
Steve Epstein
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2005-04-26 16:52
Excellent idea to have a Legere in your kit --- for emergencies, for doubling, or even as your primary reed (not my m.o., but some players do) --- they're that good. Your best bet would be to check the Legere website for strength charts and possibly even contact the company directly.
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Author: GoatTnder
Date: 2005-04-27 07:38
My current teacher showed me a neat little trick. If a reed is just a bit too hard, you can soften it by pressing it into the mouthpiece. Set it up like you're playing, and just push your thumb right into the middle of the window. You need to push fairly hard for about 3 seconds or so. It softens the reed enough to make it play. But, be careful. Too much and the reed will become too soft and sound bad. And, it tends to shorten the life of the reed a good amount.
Andres Cabrera
South Bay Wind Ensemble
sbwe@sbmusic.org
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Author: Tyler
Date: 2005-04-27 22:15
Good info here already;
My teacher also showed me a pressing technique which I basically consider only good for emergencies, but here's what you do:
Take your left finger and hold the tip of the reed flat against the reed table with it, holding the reed perpendicular to the mouthpiece. Without too much pressure, take your right thumb and press against the butt of the reed, then let it "snap" back. Or you can wiggle it back and forth, but the main idea is that your thumb remains still while holding the tip and your other hand moves the reed back and forth.
This is only a short-term fix as I have noticed that after playing for several minutes, the reed's hardness usually returns. Also, I haven't noticed any long-term damage this could cause to the reed.
It seems to work, but I use this technique sparingly.
Best wishes,
T
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Author: DavidBlumberg
Date: 2005-04-27 23:38
Other tricks include putting a reed card (credit card size except thinner) between the reed and the mouthpiece facing (right above where the reed contacts the mouthpiece) and flexing the reed - that will make a reed which is closing up too often slightly harder.
Can save you from a reed colapsing for a bit.
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