 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: martin
Date: 2005-03-15 21:13
If you were having a repair man repad your clarinet and money was no object which pads would you choose?
Martin
Post Edited (2005-03-15 21:14)
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 2005-03-15 21:21
martin wrote:
> If you were having a repair man repad your clarinet and money
> was no object which pads would you choose?
Ones put on by someone who knew what they were doing.
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Author: Bnatural
Date: 2005-03-15 22:22
If you do a search you will get an opinion of every kind:
cork
leather
bladder skin
And you will get someone saying why each one of those is bad
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Author: martin
Date: 2005-03-15 23:15
Thanks for the key words Bnatural. My original search: repadding clarinet , had over 400 hits and the first fifty or sixty threads were not too helpful.
Martin
Post Edited (2005-03-19 23:32)
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Author: GBK
Date: 2005-03-15 23:29
Try searching the archives for:
Valentino pads
Straubinger pads
Prestini pads
Goretex pads
Kraus pads
cork pads
leather pads
bladder pads
etc..etc..etc... ...GBK
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Author: hans
Date: 2005-03-15 23:43
Martin,
I noticed that there was a typograhpical error in your search; i.e., you wrote "repaddining" clarinet.
If you try again without the typo you may get a more useful result(s).
If the repadding is done by an expert, you will probably benefit from her/his advice on what kind of pads to use, and where.
Regards,
Hans
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Author: fredackerman
Date: 2005-03-16 01:25
Martin, I took Hans advice and let my repair guy extraordinaire [John Butler] make this critical decision for me with three horns.. that's the smart way to go!
Fred
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2005-03-16 02:40
Honestly, I believe it's all up to the skill of the padder(?!)
I have three clarinets. All of them different pads. All of them work fine and have lasted. For what it's worth, even though money may be no object, pads last long enough and are usually cheap enough that the differences in money wouldn't be that great anyway (it's more along the lines of the difference of price of the repair PERSON than materials of pads - unless you look at a few exceptionally priced pads, but in general, all are relatively close in cost)
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2005-03-17 12:10
They may work well, but I consider about 1/2 of points made in the marketing spiel to be highly debatable.
But I suppose that is marketing.
I find that good quality pads, of several different types, all perform remarkably well, and repadding a clarinet is a quick and relatively simple job. It is all the rest of the work that is typically necessary in an overhaul that is the time consuming, demanding part.
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2005-03-17 13:23
You got me to thinking, Gordon, and I think the primary purposes of a pad is simply to stop the air from escaping when it's closed, and to allow the air to escape well enough when it's open.
Good point that basically any material that'll do those two things will work. And that the rest of the work really makes up how well the clarinet plays (adjustment of keys/rings, pad height, etc. rather than just the material of the pad)
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: klarinette728
Date: 2005-03-18 00:40
When I play, my pads get extremly wet and start leaking everywhere... i recently bought cork pads so i wouldn't have to replace regular pads every year. I think it was a great investment, good luck. -Kathryn
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Author: nickma
Date: 2005-03-19 22:05
Why not try Vytas on this Bulletin Board? Her certainly knows what he's talking about, and has lots of experience.
Nick
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Author: kurtmagnuson
Date: 2005-03-21 02:18
Does anybody know if anybody has ever tried corks made out of silicone?
It can even be manufactured and purchased in different densities depending on the requirements needed for different size openings.
Kurt
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2005-03-21 09:49
Norbeck pads have been around at least 10 years. They are a light grey silicon rubber with composite cork laminated to the back, to aid adhesion to the key cup.
The tone hole edge must be blemish-free and level, because these pads have little resilience and never gain any 'seat'.
Alignment with the tone hole must be perfect. There must be no sloppiness in the pivots.
They are not affected at all by moisture. They tend to have a slight sticky feel as they leave the tone hole.
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