 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Britbrit
Date: 2004-09-01 12:46
I have recently re-padded an old clarinet dating from 1920 which is in very good overall condition considering the age of the instrument, but I am having problems with adjusting the Lower E and lower F pads correctly.
I can get them level to give even contact all round the hole, but when I use thin plastic tape to gage the tightness (at 4 points N/S/E/W) I get a weak result compared to a Noblet Artist which was redone by a qualified tech.
To get low E (and more particularly B above transition) from the left hand pinky key, I need to apply unnecessary pressure making for hard playing.
The value of this old clarinet did not really justify the services of a tech which is why I tried it myself.
The pad cups are conical bottomed.
What adhesive should be used for sticking the pads ?
Should the pads by 'conditioned' in some way so that the rim of the hole makes more of an impression in the pad surface and so give a tighter contact ? On the Noblet Artist, the rim mark seems much more pronounced on the pads giving the impression that the rim fits deeper into the pad surface (its probably only 1/64th " more but it would give a better sound).
Should I just play and wait for the pads to bed in, if so how long should this take ?
Should I use a softer pad ? Does softer pad exist ?
Thanks for any anwswers.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Don Berger
Date: 2004-09-01 13:23
That is possibly the most difficult adjustment problem on most cls, Gordon has had words of encouragement on it, Search. On an older horn, its possible that the tone hole surface is slightly damaged, to which the pad cannot adjust. For educational purposes, I'd suggest taking it to an expert repairer, and ASK to watch what he/she does. The ultimate test, of course, is how easily does it play. Luck, Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Dee
Date: 2004-09-01 15:21
The cost of adjusting one or two pads or even replacing one or two won't be prohibitive. So you could have a tech do just the ones giving you trouble.
Note that some clarinets need a slighly thicker pad.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: BobD
Date: 2004-09-01 15:50
Yes, your questions remind me of someone asking Pavarotti how to sing. You are into an area where actual observation and handling of the horn would probably be necessary to reply properly. Search here for scads of information that is relevant.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Britbrit
Date: 2004-09-02 14:41
Thanks to all for the advice. I have managed to adjust the pads and the corks correctly so that they seat alright and I no longer have to press had on the LH pinky key ot get a decent upper B out of the horn. BUT.... because the bottom part is now more air-tight it has shown up other mis-adjustments.
This restoration project has become quite an eye-opener and good fun. I'll be looking to adjust the rings around the bottom hole set because they sit a little above the holes (which are themselves a little worn) and so when I paly the lower G it starts to whistle.
next project is to repad an alto sax dating from the 1930's
Since I started this, a number of friends have dragged old instruments out of cupboards / attics / cellars to ask if I can do anything about them. Just how many old instruments are there ? What if any value should be attached to old instruments (clarinets , saxos etc;) i don't suppose they really gain in value other than the antiquity and the rarety if it involves long lost manufacturers.
keep on blowing.
Chris
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2004-09-02 15:44
Some very old instruments do not have such sharp edges on the tone holes. Therefore, compared with a modern instrument using the same finger force, there will be less resisting pressure on your shim.
Old instruments often have chips or splits across tone hole edges.
If then left hand levers have a pin-in-a-hole connection to the low keys, then alignment of the pin must be such that it operates freely in the hole, and any 'silencer skin' must not jam this linkage. The pins must be loose enough in their holes hole (or in the lever pivots themselves must be sloppy enough) that this linkage does not bind as the linkage holes of the low keys move through a radius during normal operation.
If the linkage is NOT via pins in holes, then there should be low friction material in the linkage, to accept , once again , that radius that the keys travel through.
Low key linkages can never function reliably if there is any sloppiness in the low keys' point pivots.
<<What adhesive should be used for sticking the pads ?>>
The glue must also be an effective filler, between the pad and the back of the key cup. Use either stick shellac, or a hot melt glue-gun type glue, ideally of higher softening temperature than what hardware stores stock.
<<Should the pads by 'conditioned' in some way so that the rim of the hole makes more of an impression in the pad surface and so give a tighter contact ?>>
Not really. A deep seat is not necessary for good sealing, nor tight contact. All that is needed is secure pivots, and a pad surface that is in the same plane as the tone hole. IMO It is only shoddy manufacturers and technicians who resort to soft, squishy pads.
Note that tone holes may not be level on very old instruments. Specialised tools can level them. Oiling the bore may help.
<<Should I just play and wait for the pads to bed in, if so how long should this take ?>>
It doesn't really work. It will take forever, but train the player to use a gorilla grip!
Note that pads that are too thick will cause a heap of problems. Your high low ring keys suggest that this is the case, the most obvious problem being that pads close at the back of the tone holes, before they contact the front.
<<Should I use a softer pad ? Does softer pad exist ?>> A large range of pad types exist. The shoddier the manufacture or adjustment, the gooeyer the pad that tends to be used in a sad attempt to deal with the problems.
Key cups that don't line up with tones holes can also cause problems. The experienced, conscientious technician deals with a myriad of little issues which affect function and reliability. Just changing the pads is a rather small part of a good overhaul.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Britbrit
Date: 2004-09-03 06:35
Thanks for the comments Gordon. The worn hole edges and small cracks are effectively part of the problem. As for the LH key linkages, they are pin-in-hole type and are free (and sometimes quite noisy).
Britbrit
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2004-09-03 11:47
Superglue is good for sealing grain and small-scale rebuilding of tone hole edges. The tricky part is getting the edge perfectly level again after application.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
