 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Steve
Date: 1999-12-30 03:23
I read on this site that 1/16" cork from the hardware store can be used as to replace worn out cork in tenon joints. I have two questions about doing this:
1. My local store only carries cork that is made from
compressed particles. Will this work, or do I need to
get natural cork? Where is this available? (Here in
California I looked at Orchard Supply Hardware.)
2. What's the best way to remove the old cork? If I just
peel it off, what about the glue? Sand it?
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Author: Willie
Date: 1999-12-30 03:39
Most of the compressed cork sheets I've seen at hardware stores is not too good for tenons. When you twist the pieces together the cork will usualy start to crumble and your back where you started, with a naked tenon. Also too, some of this cork is sometimes mixed with chunks of rubber (recycled tires) and can be even worse. Keep in mind that this type of cork is designed to be used as a gasket (once only) between two pieces of metal, permanantly, with no future movement. Great for cars, but not for clarinets.
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Author: Dee
Date: 1999-12-30 04:38
Before undertaking corking of the joints, you need to read up on the entire procedure. Just running down to the hardware store, getting cork, and using any old glue isn't going to do it. The wrong glue either won't stick or on the other hand could damage the tenon joint. Also there is a method of tapering the cork so that you can overlap the ends to insure that there are no gaps and no bumps. Either of these can cause leaks plus bumps could cause problems with assembly. Then after the cork is applied, some sanding is often required and there is a method for that so that you don't get flat spots or bumps.
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Author: ron
Date: 1999-12-30 07:06
Hi, Steve -
You are brave to want to do it yourself. By no means would I want to discourage you. But Dee's and Willie's comments are both right on. Automotive gasket cork is useless for a woodwind instrument. You can obtain materials from a number of suppliers (Ferree's is listed under Equipment here at Sneezy). You'll need to buy cork by the sheet and adhesive by the stick. Then you'll need a heat source, if you want a proper job, that won't burn the horn body. If you haven't done it before or had someone with experience show you how, it's a little tricky to get a smooth fit. In the long run you'll probably save time and money by having a tech do a joint (or two) re-cork for you. It's not expensive and you won't have a lot of leftover stuff lying around when it's done.
Ron
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Author: J. Butler
Date: 1999-12-30 12:14
If you still want to try to do this yourself buy the 3/32 cork from Ferree's. It requires less sanding. Also, use a good contact cement such as Barges. You can usually find it at a shoe repair facility or through Tandy Leather. Research the procedure before you begin. Your first few tenons may not look pretty at first, but with practice you will do better.
John
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Author: Doug
Date: 1999-12-30 16:00
You would be much better off using contact cement as the adhesive rather than the stick adhesive recommended in one of the messages above. For removal of the old, dried contact cement on the tenon, use lacquer thinner, but be sure to do this in a very well ventilated area, preferably outside.
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Author: Drew
Date: 1999-12-30 16:06
Great post, provides everyone the opportunity to see how specialized woodwind repair really is.
After a couple of bad experiences of my own creation, I've sworn off trying to be a part-time tech. I've made a deal with the two techs I work with, they don't tell me how to play, I don't mess with the instrument. I pay them for their good work, which is much cheaper in time and money than me trying to figure it out. Nothing more irritating to a tech than fixing the damage from a botched repair job by an amateur.
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Author: Ken
Date: 1999-12-30 22:07
Please tell me your opinion about synthetic cork.
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Author: Dee
Date: 1999-12-30 22:46
I do not like the appearance of the synthetic cork. I've only used it to redo a Vito that I picked up on eBay that was missing all the joint corks. Since this instrument doesn't get a lot of used, I don't know how well it will hold up.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 1999-12-31 03:22
Like Dee, I dont use synth [or reconstituted] cork, real sheet cork is the best, and I thank J Butler for the 3/32 s advice, however at times 1/16 or 1/8 are needed, particularly for the less-good plastic cls! Don
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Author: J. Butler
Date: 1999-12-31 03:38
As a matter of fact, I didn't state the correct figure. I should have stated: "get 3/64ths (not 3/32nd). I think most of you who are not as mathmatically challenged as I would have caught the error.
John
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Author: Rick2
Date: 1999-12-31 03:53
I've personally used plain old sheet cork fromthe hardware store with good success. You need to pound on it with a mallet for a while to pre-compress it, but I haven't had any trouble with it.
For synthetic cork, the material lasts forever, but the adhesive they use is terrible. It falls off the cork leaving a ring of adhesive on the tenon that will take you 45 minutes per tenon to remove.
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Author: Donn
Date: 1999-12-31 17:38
There is an excellent article on Tenon cork replacement right here on Sneezy. Look in Equipment: Maintenance:
Tenon cork replacement.
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