 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: SeAn
Date: 1999-02-19 04:18
I'd heard that by rotating the barrel and bell to different position, there'll a very slight effect on the response of the clarinet. (the bell to a lesser extend).
I tried it on my barrel(Fobe) and found that at certain position, the response is tinny-winy better.
have anyone tried this? and wat r your views on this?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Hiroshi
Date: 1999-02-19 04:53
I knew that rotating barrel and bell may change the tone quality quite recently in Mr.Ridenour's article:
http://home1.gte.net/klarinet/articles/select.htm
(Under subsection titled "barrel and bell")
I tried rotating barrel with my Selmer 10SII* but could not identify any improvement or I notify it became slightly off the best tone.!
At last I remembered that my Chadash barrel was bought with my Greg Smith#1.Greg must have reamered the barrel and mouthpiece with the barrel mark and mouthpiece mark in line!(How stupid I am....!)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Kevin Bowman
Date: 1999-02-19 14:30
SeAn wrote:
-------------------------------
I'd heard that by rotating the barrel and bell to different position, there'll a very slight effect on the response of the clarinet. (the bell to a lesser extend).
I tried it on my barrel(Fobe) and found that at certain position, the response is tinny-winy better.
have anyone tried this? and wat r your views on this?
-----
SeAn -
I have seen this done. My own instructor (Assistant Principle of the Detroit Symphony) does this and has placed white "alignment" marks on each adjoining piece so he can quickly find the desired alignmend during assembly. I have tried it and I do notice a difference (both barrel and bell) but I have yet to take to time to figure out where the best rotation is - it can be very time consuming. I might suggest starting at the barrel with 1/4 turns, then narrowing in by 1/8 turns. Then try the bell.
I've also heard of people doing other things with the bell, like removing the metal ring, drilling vent holes, etc. I would not recommend doing this unless you can first find a replacement bell (having a spare to "experiment" with).
Kevin Bowman
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Dave Spiegelthal
Date: 1999-02-19 14:54
I've also heard that clarinets play better when the barrel is aligned with the prevailing wind, and the bell is pointed within 30 degrees of Mecca. Has anyone tried this?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Daniel
Date: 1999-02-19 15:13
Hiroshi wrote:
-------------------------------
At last I remembered that my Chadash barrel was bought with my Greg Smith#1.Greg must have reamered the barrel and mouthpiece with the barrel mark and mouthpiece mark in line!(How stupid I am....!)
If Greg had reamed the mouthpiece while it was on the barrel, then the barrel would no longer have Guy's bore and would no longer be a Chadash barrel except for the name stamped into it. Greg's mouthpieces simply work well with Guy's barrels. But they aren't reamed together.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Daniel
Date: 1999-02-19 15:17
When Kalmen Opperman makes barrels for his students, He does this and inserts a mother-of-pearl dot where the barrel lines up with the clarinet best to give the best tone and response.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: paul
Date: 1999-02-19 15:51
I've been using my relatively new (Buffet Festival, 1994 vintage) clarinet's proof (brand) marks as a barrel and bell alignmment guide for a couple of years of part-time playing as an adult novice. If I keep the proof marks generally lined up with the proof mark on the upper joint, the horn plays and sounds pretty good. I guess I've gotten in the habit of assembling the entire horn with the proof marks lined up without questioning whether there would be a better tone with a different alignment. The horn developed a moisture drainage pathway that's predictable from the tip of the mp all the way to the bell. So, if there is no discernable improvement with realigning the barrel or the bell, I can at least justify keeping the status quo to let the moisture path stay predictable.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: John
Date: 1999-02-20 00:23
IMHO: why barrel rotation works for some people on some clarinets but not for others: the bores of wood barrels and upper joints deviate from perfect circularity in cross section, either id or od, both because of tolerances in the boring process and due to movement of the wood after it has been bored. Add to this the variations in type of bore (conical, cylindrical, reverse cone, polycylindrical etc) and you have a situation where it is likely that those players with the patience to do so can find a particular orientation of the barrel which best harmonizes the imperfections of the barrel with those of the upper joint.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
