 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: pzaur
Date: 2004-03-06 22:44
There seems to be alot of talk about ways to keep reeds from warping and how remedy the problem. The way my reeds warp seems to have changed since I moved from the Midwest to the Southwest.
When I lived in the Midwest (Chicago area), my reeds warped by upwards in the middle allowing air to leak out underneath the reed. The edges of the reed still stayed in contact with the rails, but a seal could not be made between the reed and mouthpiece.
When I moved to the Southwest (SD - CA, PHX - AZ), the way my reeds warped changed. Instead of warping upwards in the middle, they started to warp downwards. This caused the edges of the reed to come off the rails meaning no seal could be made.
Has anyone else experienced a phenomenon like this?
But how do your reeds warp?
- pat
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Author: Robyn
Date: 2004-03-06 23:03
I live in eastern Washington state (pretty dry) and my reeds bulge on the bottom (i.e. downwards). I didn't know reeds could warp the other way. You learn something new every day!
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Author: pzaur
Date: 2004-03-07 03:11
Would humidity affect the reeds this way causing the difference in how they warp?
It would be interesting to hear some thoughts from players who live in humid climates.
-pat
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2004-03-07 03:47
I would think more than anything the reed itself would have the greatest affect (effect? I always confuse the two!). Or rather how the reed was made, the density, the specific cuts, the fibre makeup, etc. The humidity I would think to be only a factor in how likely it is to warp in the first place.
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: elmo lewis
Date: 2004-03-07 16:32
I find that when most reeds warp the sides pull up. (If you put them wet on a piece of glass the center of the reed stays in contact with the glass while the sides curl up). A few reeds, however, warp from top to bottom. When you put them on the glass the tip and the heel of the reed maintain contact while the center of the reed bows up.
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2004-03-08 14:38
The wrong way, always......that's why I buy reeds at least a half-strength harder than the intended final strength, mainly so I can occasionally scrape the bottoms flat as they warp.
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Author: Bob Schwab
Date: 2004-03-09 03:10
sfalexi wrote: "the greatest affect (effect? I always confuse the two)."
Don't feel bad. I'm a technical writer and I always have difficulty with these as well. It's one of those mental block thingies. I'm constantly looking the difference up in my grammar books whenever I can't reasonably avoid using those terms.
It's a part of being human I guess.
Bob Schwab
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Author: saxlite
Date: 2004-03-09 14:12
I have found that reeds warp if not dried properly.....when finished, I dry the reed by gently pulling a soft rag (old T-shirt) from butt to tip, then storing in a reed holder of some sort- it doesn't matter, so long as the reed has a flat surface to rest on while drying. The plastic shield that Vandoren packs new reeds in works well, as well as the special storage gadgets. I have no problem with warpage. I also notice that reeds left on the mouthpiece will warp every time.......
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Author: Rick Williams
Date: 2004-03-09 14:32
Any wood can cup, bow or twist depending on the grain alignment. When you move from one humidity level to another, the wood or reeds try to reach a degree of equilibrium. If the bottom center takes up more moisture than the edges, the reed bows out. If more water leaves the center then it can cup and twisting can occur when the grain isn't straight.
Considering that cane reeds are constantly being wetted then dried, it is a testiment to the properties of cane that they do not warp more. I've found that a consistant method of drying reeds helps a bunch. I do the same thing as saxlite and have very few issues.
RW
Best
Rick
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Author: William
Date: 2004-03-09 18:08
They don't!! I use saliva only in moistening, rub them down before playing and store them in a Harrison reed case for drying. The tips are always flat and ready to go for the next session and I never worry about the backs. Sanding (until smooth) and glazing never seemed to make any difference in how my reeds played--in fact, it often seemed to make them play worse. I now choose only to seal the exposed xylum left open from the manufacturing process by rubbing before playing and then allow the reed to dry on glass at least one day before using again. No water, no sanding or glazing......no warping and No Problem!!
And most reeds a typical box of V12s, 3.5 or 4.0 usually are at least usable after profiling and balancing the tip, rails and vamp of each cane. For that I use a reed knife and my Reed Wizard.
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