 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: atl4413
Date: 2004-02-15 22:05
Has anyone out there ever overhauled your own clarinet? Is it hard? Is there a manual somewhere that tells you how to do it?
I would like to replace the pads and corks on my old student clarinet. I know it won't be a big deal to remove everything, it's the putting it back together so that it plays that worries me.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2004-02-15 22:35
If putting it back together worries you, then you had better save a hundred times that worry for getting the surface of the pads in the same plane as the tone holes, and attending to the plethora of issues associated with the mechanism, on which good adjustment depends.
The difference in the work of a capable technician, and the average DIY, could be likened to the difference between what your dentist does, and what you could do yourself with a Dremel and some filler.
There are some books, which are rather superficial; they are no substitute for a wealth of experience.
But go for it if that is where your heart lies! That is how I became a technician. Just start on an instrument that does not have much value!
Basic assistance comes with repair kits from Musicmedic, who are reputedly friendly to DIYers. http://www.musicmedic.com/index.html
The Ferrees tools catalogue can give a glimpse into the complexities of good servicing.... for every tool there is an implied operation.
http://www.ferreestools.com/
http://www.musicmedic.com/index.html
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Author: atl4413
Date: 2004-02-15 22:54
Gordon, now that you put it that way, I'm not so sure that I'm up for the challenge.
I don't have a lot of time as it is, but I thought it might be fun. My student clarinet is probably worth about $10.00.....so I thought, what could it hurt? It doesn't play now? But, after looking at some websites, it looks like it could be perhaps a bit too much.
The dentist analogy is a good one - a bit scary after watching Castaway, but a good one.
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Author: ron b
Date: 2004-02-15 23:26
It would be very helpful for you, at14413, to find a learner-friendly tech in your area who would be willing to give you some basic advice, then critique your work as you progress. There's no substitute for hands on mistakes and subsequent successes and a friendly advisor to help you over the rough spots along the way. Payment schedule for the "lessons" would be whatever you can work out between you. You'll need to assess you own situation. I've found that, at the very least, a couple months supply of fresh ground coffee and ocassional donuts all around is a good beginning.
The worst that can happen is that you end up having the tech tweak your project back to life after you give up. The best is that you succeed, feel great about yourself and gain new insights and greater respect for what technicians actually know and how much "extra" they often do.
Either way, you get your old horn to tootin' again 
- r![[cool]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/cool.gif) n b -
Post Edited (2004-02-15 23:28)
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Author: Mark Pinner
Date: 2004-02-16 11:00
There is a little bit more to instrument repair than there first seems.
Pad installation, levelling as Gordon mentions, seating, height and profile issues take a combination of experience and good tuition as well as a good few stuff ups. Linkage corks and there adjustment require dexterity with tools, a keen eye for detail, experience and, again, a few stuff ups. Then comprehensive testing with presure, vacuum and a light. Then there are those pesky silencer corks, voicing the horn etc..
If you want to go into the industry I would suggest an apprenticeship or comprehensive training course. DIY repairs require plenty of years, as opposed to those that ususally attempt it, as a player with a comprehensive understanding of how horns work.
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Author: coasten1
Date: 2004-02-16 15:47
See my post
http://www.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/read.html?f=1&i=137852&t=137852
I recently did my first overhaul and maybe this might help you a little.
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Author: Rev. Avery
Date: 2004-02-16 18:56
Hi,
Is there a general/average cork thickness to get for replacing the tenon corks? Also, the mpc cork?
What kind of glue (name brand) should be used?
And another helpful information on this would be appreciated.
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Author: ron b
Date: 2004-02-16 19:51
Re: CORK
In my day to day experience 1/8" (tenons, including mpc, and some keys) and 1/16" (keys) sheet cork are probably the two most common thicknesses for most modern clarinets and saxes. As you'll need to adjust these to individual instruments, a few grades of sandpaper should be readily at hand.
I like contact cement for corking everything clarinet-wise, SuperGlue(brand name) contact cement or 3M contact cement are my preferences -- DAP is pretty good; thin, if needed, with M.E.K. (methyl ethyl keytones). Stick shellac for cork adhesive is the only way to go (for me) for a few applications on saxes. I prefer glue gun sticks, used as you would use shellac, for gluing felt.
- ron b -
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2004-02-16 21:39
I agreed with the shellac, until I bought some higher quality pads for which shellac simply did not adhere well enough. Maybe a coating on the back, or the adhesive used for the membrane. Now I use a HIGH temp glue stick. Still use shellac for sax pads.
1/16" (1.6 mm) cork is heaps for almost every tenon cork. For many pro instruments, 1.2 mm is sufficient.
I would never use 1/8". If I needed cork that thick I would laminate 0.4 mm agglomerated cork beneath the natural cork.
And I would find 1/16 twice as thick as it should be for most key corks, exceptions being throat A &/or G# on some models. Actually there are not many locations in clarinet mechanism where I still use natural cork. Other much more appropriate materials are now available.
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