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Buffet manufacturer's care instruction

Author: Charles
Date: 1999-11-27 22:58

Anybody has (knows) the Buffet Manufacturer's care instruction?

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RE: Buffet manufacturer's care instruction

Author: Mark Charette
Date: 1999-11-28 00:32

I have a copy; what exactly did you want to know?

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RE: Buffet manufacturer's care instruction

Author: Charles
Date: 1999-11-28 16:47

I have a Buffet Bb Clarinet.

I want to know about bore oiling, humidity in the case....

WW&BW clarinet care instruction(in catalog book) and other brand instruction are different.

Thanks.

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RE: Buffet manufacturer's care instruction

Author: Eoin
Date: 1999-11-28 21:57

The "Maintenance Leaflet" that came with my Buffet E13 says the following:

No bore oil, etc. needs to be used to prevent cracks in a new instrument.

There's lots more stuff, but it is all pretty obvious, such as avoiding excessive temperature, drying it before putting it in the case and so on.

Eoin

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RE: Buffet manufacturer's care instruction

Author: HIROSHI
Date: 1999-11-29 03:26

I used to have a RC Prestige. Its maintenance instruction
1)said no bore oil necessary, and
2)did not say necessity of humidifier inside the case.

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Care, Assembly, Dissassembly

Author: paul
Date: 1999-11-29 18:46

Okay fellow clarinetists, I need your help to get it right for everyone else, so if you see something wrong or want to make a comment on what's listed below, please go for it.

When I purchased it new, my Buffet Festival did not have any care instructions with it. However, this is what I have done to keep it in near pristine condition for about 3 years.

1. I never take the horn outside for a performance. I keep it in a temperature and humidity controlled environment at all times. While this isn't always possible for other folks, keeping the clarinet in a controlled environment sure helps keep it looking and playing like brand new.

2. I store my clarinet disassembled and in the case when not using it. I keep the case off the floor, out of the reach of other people, the family dog, etc. This last hint seems rather obvious, but locking the entire horn away has kept me out of trouble more times than I can count.

3. I use the original case. It was made for the horn. I use a "gig bag" for the case when I travel. Not a bad idea. The original case isn't dinged up or scratched too much and the gig bag works great for a few drill books, sheet music, etc.

4. I always swab out and clean up the horn after each session. I personally clean up the horn from mouthpiece to bell, using a clarinet stand for the remaining pieces. This is an obvious item, but I added another twist to it to keep the silver plated keywork from tarnishing. I use a very clean swab rag (100% cotton, clean and new, but broken in) to wipe down all of the keys and the key pad top surfaces and then put the pieces back into the case with the clean rag so I don't get any of my acidic fingerprints on the keys, keyshafts, pad cups, etc.

5. I never put any soft rubber products in the case with the horn. I always dab up moisture from reeds and let the wet swab rag dry outside the case. All of these are tarnish prevention tricks for my silver keyed horn. They work great. I also put a tarnish prevention strip in the case, which has worked well beyond my expectations.

6. I use a clarinet stand. I just can't live without a good clarinet stand. Perhaps just an opinion, but I don't have any bent keys or dented parts to show for it - at least not yet.

7. Assembly: I select my natural cane (or Legere artificial) reed and soak it in my mouth during the assembly process. This warms up the reed and premoistens it. This procedure isn't needed for the Legere reed, but habits are so hard to break. I make sure all joint corks are greased enough to permit easy, but slightly resistive contact. I believe if one cork needs grease, why not do them all at once. So, about once a week or so, I grease all of the corks, starting on the upper joint, then, the lower joint, then the mouthpiece. A light coating is all that's needed with a properly adjusted cork. Excess cork grease is wiped off with a facial tissue. Assembly of the horn starts with the two joints, of course. Take the upper joint perpendicular to the left hand, so the lower part of the fingers of the left hand go across the trill keys. Use the left first finger to press down the lowest ring, which raises the cross joint tab a little. Take the lower joint in the right hand, again perpendicular, so the right hand fingers go over the lower joint's long key pins slightly loosely. Don't hold the right joint in a way to press down the rings, which pushes up the cross joint tab. Put the two pieces together in a slight twisting motion (no more than 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock range), lining up the cross joint tab markings from the lower joint to the outline of the upper joint tab. The lower joint's tab should go under the upper joint's tab. Test the tab fitting by pressing the lower joint's rings and see if the upper joint's rings and ring guided pads go down. Test again by pressing the upper joint's rings and note that none of the lower joint's rings or ring guided pads go down. Attach the bell, again with a slight twisting motion. I use the trick recommended on this BBS. I line up the "proof mark" (brand mark) on the bell with the lower joint. Attach the barrel, lining up proof marks. Attach the mouthpiece, without the ligature and reed. Put the reed on the mouthpiece and hold it in place. Gently slip the ligature over the reed and onto the mouthpiece, stopping around the ligature guide marks as appropriate. Adjust the reed height and angle as appropriate. Tighten the ligature to lightly finger tight on the bottom and very lightly finger tight on the top.

8. Dissembly: Loosen the ligature and remove the reed. Dab up excess moisture from the reed and store it in a good reed case. Remove the ligature. Twist and slide off the mouthpiece. Run the swab rag through the mouthpiece to remove moisture. Wipe down the mouthpiece on the outside and put the mouthpiece away. Remove the barrel from the upper joint. Run the swab through to take up moisture from the bore and then wipe down the outside of the barrel. Store the barrel in the case. Remove the upper joint, using the same perpendicular grip on the upper and lower joint as above, taking care to raise the cross joint tab on the upper joint only. Use a slight twisting motion and pull the pieces apart gently. Run the swab through (top to bottom motion only) until there is no visible trace of moisture inside the bore. Wipe down the keys with a clean cloth to remove fingerprints. Store the piece in the case. Remove the lower joint from the bell. Swab through from top to bottom to remove all visible moisture from the bore. Use the clean cloth to wipe down the keys. Store the piece in the case. Swab out and wipe down the bell and store it in the case.

9. When all of the parts and pieces have been accounted for and put in their proper place in the case, close the case's lid and snap down the lock tabs. Lock the case if appropriate. Store the entire horn and case off the floor and away from windows, heat vents, pets, etc.

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